Aesthetic Guide for Bikes?
#1
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Aesthetic Guide for Bikes?
This instagram post caught my eye. Caption reads "Aesthetic Bicycle. How To Make A Beautiful Touring Bike. (New Cycling Mar. 1985" and there are a few more photos posted at the account with more detail.

It's obviously in Japanese but I can't help but wonder if there was an English language equivalent? I'd love to see the explanations for different angles and such. Aesthetic sensibilities for bicycles have always fascinated me as they seem to have become less and less important as the sport moved into modern frame design after the late 1980s. My first bikes in the early 2000s were 70s/80s road bikes that I set up per what I found on Sheldon Brown's site. The only guidelines I remember were the brake levers tips being slightly above an imaginary line extending along the bottom of the drops and that seatpost, stem and crankset were all supposed to be the same color. In 2018 it seems like most of the consideration for what a bicycle looks like is often limited to make sure the photos taken are crisp and clear and that's about it. Does anyone have their own aesthetic rules for setting up their bikes?

It's obviously in Japanese but I can't help but wonder if there was an English language equivalent? I'd love to see the explanations for different angles and such. Aesthetic sensibilities for bicycles have always fascinated me as they seem to have become less and less important as the sport moved into modern frame design after the late 1980s. My first bikes in the early 2000s were 70s/80s road bikes that I set up per what I found on Sheldon Brown's site. The only guidelines I remember were the brake levers tips being slightly above an imaginary line extending along the bottom of the drops and that seatpost, stem and crankset were all supposed to be the same color. In 2018 it seems like most of the consideration for what a bicycle looks like is often limited to make sure the photos taken are crisp and clear and that's about it. Does anyone have their own aesthetic rules for setting up their bikes?
#2
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From: Long Island, NY
Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport
It looks like the angle shown apply to the fender ends. There may be other versions of the that perhaps apply to different aspects of the bicycle design. Interesting find.
It looks like a French bike is the model right down to the Huret derailleur and TA crank.
It looks like a French bike is the model right down to the Huret derailleur and TA crank.
#3
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From: Santa Fe, NM
Bikes: Vassago Moosknuckle Ti 29+ XTR, 90's Merckx Corsa-01 9sp Record, PROJECT: 1954 Frejus SuperCorsa
Great topic.
I have a few things I abide by:
- Handlebars and hoods level or close to level. If the bars/hoods are rotated too far back it looks dumb (IMO) and is less practical. To me, it means a shorter stem / shorter reach bar is needed (or perhaps TT is too long)
- Cranks/Stem/Seatpost same color
- Bars/Saddle matching and same color as frame highlights. Black saddle/bars if not.
- Saddle level (or very close to it) and close to center or slightly back on the rails.
- Components matching (brakes, Derailleurs)
- Saddle/bar heights appropriate for intent of bike. Racing bikes with -1 to -4" drop (for larger riders like me), touring/sport bikes close to level
I like the look of fenders on a suitable bike. Not on a race bike, of course. If the frame has eyelets, I prefer fenders on the bike.
I have a few things I abide by:
- Handlebars and hoods level or close to level. If the bars/hoods are rotated too far back it looks dumb (IMO) and is less practical. To me, it means a shorter stem / shorter reach bar is needed (or perhaps TT is too long)
- Cranks/Stem/Seatpost same color
- Bars/Saddle matching and same color as frame highlights. Black saddle/bars if not.
- Saddle level (or very close to it) and close to center or slightly back on the rails.
- Components matching (brakes, Derailleurs)
- Saddle/bar heights appropriate for intent of bike. Racing bikes with -1 to -4" drop (for larger riders like me), touring/sport bikes close to level
I like the look of fenders on a suitable bike. Not on a race bike, of course. If the frame has eyelets, I prefer fenders on the bike.
#4
Sunshine
Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Des Moines, IA
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Most of my specific wants are practical and not aesthetic. I fully understand that my bikes arent beauties. They may look 'neat' or 'cool' or 'fun', but they arent beauties. Its often due to the size- like a gangly young giraffe, the proportions arent ideal.
The few aesthetic requirements I have developed are...
Saddle level.
Bars that have a bend so the ramps and drops are both level(or near level) with the ground. Hoods that then transition off the level ramps as smoothly as possible.
No technomic stems. If more rise is needed to get the bars in the correct spot, then Dynamic II stems are used.
Stem, seatpost, and bars all same color(black or silver).
The first two are both aesthetic and practical. The last two is simply aesthetic as I dont find technomic stems to look good in almost any application. They seem to be a fix for a frame thats too small. On the 2 bikes I have where I could use one, I have 0degree Nitto Dynamic II stems instead. They arent a traditional -17 bend and many dont like the 0degree look, but I dislike the 0degree look less than I dislike the comically high technomic look. Its a comprimise.
My bikes are like Mary from Springsteen's Thunder Road- "you aint a beauty, but hey you're alright".
The few aesthetic requirements I have developed are...
Saddle level.
Bars that have a bend so the ramps and drops are both level(or near level) with the ground. Hoods that then transition off the level ramps as smoothly as possible.
No technomic stems. If more rise is needed to get the bars in the correct spot, then Dynamic II stems are used.
Stem, seatpost, and bars all same color(black or silver).
The first two are both aesthetic and practical. The last two is simply aesthetic as I dont find technomic stems to look good in almost any application. They seem to be a fix for a frame thats too small. On the 2 bikes I have where I could use one, I have 0degree Nitto Dynamic II stems instead. They arent a traditional -17 bend and many dont like the 0degree look, but I dislike the 0degree look less than I dislike the comically high technomic look. Its a comprimise.
My bikes are like Mary from Springsteen's Thunder Road- "you aint a beauty, but hey you're alright".
#5
I dont find technomic stems to look good in almost any application. They seem to be a fix for a frame thats too small. On the 2 bikes I have where I could use one, I have 0degree Nitto Dynamic II stems instead. They arent a traditional -17 bend and many dont like the 0degree look, but I dislike the 0degree look less than I dislike the comically high technomic look. Its a comprimise.
Last edited by plonz; 10-03-18 at 08:14 PM.
#6
Sunshine
Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Des Moines, IA
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Here I thought I was alone on this island. Give me 0 degree over inches of quill any day. I’ve had a tough time finding traditional 0 degree stems like the dynamic II in longer (120-130) reaches and 26.0 clamp. I usually end up with Ritchey style stems that are better suited on mountain bikes. IMO, they’re passable on most 80s road bikes but out of place on something older. Oh the perils of preferring a smaller frame...
https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-dyna...c2_870/product
looks like only 25.4 clamp is in stock right now.
they have 26.0 clamp size too.
#7
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It's obviously in Japanese but I can't help but wonder if there was an English language equivalent?
#8
I have bought mine from Ben's Cycle.
https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-dyna...c2_870/product
looks like only 25.4 clamp is in stock right now.
they have 26.0 clamp size too.
https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-dyna...c2_870/product
looks like only 25.4 clamp is in stock right now.
they have 26.0 clamp size too.
#9
Sunshine
Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Des Moines, IA
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Give them a call- ive called before to ask about the stems and the guy I spoke with looked and found 2 even though they didnt show as available online. At worst you can then ask them about availability if they are out of stock at the moment.
#10
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#13
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From: Chicago North Shore
Bikes: frankenbike based on MKM frame
Consider the aesthetic demands on the rider, too. According to this diagram, the rider needs to be proportioned so that the combo of torso, arms, and riding position compute out to long reach relative to the legs; that is, the the legs have to be pretty short for the rider's reach.
How does the Dynamic solve the problem that the Technomic solves?
How does the Dynamic solve the problem that the Technomic solves?
#14
Comes down to your aesthetic preferences.
Technomic showing a whole lot of quill. Pic is from another BF post. Not my bike and not my preference. On the plus side, you keep the classic -17 degree look where the stem is near parallel to the top tube.

This is my bike and my preference. While not a Dynamic II, it is a 0 degree rise that accomplishes the same thing. Far less exposed quill but the stem angles upward which I know is off-putting for many. I prefer the rise rather than the exposed quill.

[MENTION=385973]mstateglfr[/MENTION] Thanks for the Ben's tip. I'll give them a shout on my next build.
Technomic showing a whole lot of quill. Pic is from another BF post. Not my bike and not my preference. On the plus side, you keep the classic -17 degree look where the stem is near parallel to the top tube.

This is my bike and my preference. While not a Dynamic II, it is a 0 degree rise that accomplishes the same thing. Far less exposed quill but the stem angles upward which I know is off-putting for many. I prefer the rise rather than the exposed quill.

[MENTION=385973]mstateglfr[/MENTION] Thanks for the Ben's tip. I'll give them a shout on my next build.
#15
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I laughed very hard at this, good show 
My intention was more in line with the article portion that is in the pages of the magazine but not picture. Having an explanation of why A is A is interesting to me.

My intention was more in line with the article portion that is in the pages of the magazine but not picture. Having an explanation of why A is A is interesting to me.
#16
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Bikes: '88 Cannondale ST400, '89 Bianchi Incline, ’88 Bianchi Limited, '87 Schwinn Tempo
Seems to me the explanation is right there in the drawing. You see the angle "a" repeated four times when the fenders are aligned as shown. It's hidden symmetry, and humans tend to find beauty in symmetry. (Whether they realize it or not.)
#18
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Consider the aesthetic demands on the rider, too. According to this diagram, the rider needs to be proportioned so that the combo of torso, arms, and riding position compute out to long reach relative to the legs; that is, the the legs have to be pretty short for the rider's reach.
#21
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Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
The last two is simply aesthetic as I dont find technomic stems to look good in almost any application. They seem to be a fix for a frame thats too small. On the 2 bikes I have where I could use one, I have 0degree Nitto Dynamic II stems instead. They arent a traditional -17 bend and many dont like the 0degree look, but I dislike the 0degree look less than I dislike the comically high technomic look. Its a comprimise.
Another factor for my bikes is having a 21" bike, the head tubes are really short- so all my stems are slammed in there- but still way up there.

1985 Trek 620 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr

IMG_1703 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#22
Sunshine
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 18,731
Likes: 10,285
From: Des Moines, IA
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
I know I've seen Technomics that appear to be "comically" tall (or maybe it's the Tallux stem that's that high), but since getting a few of them on bikes- I don't judge. I have a couple Technomics in use and a Specialized Dirt Drop- so a Nitto DD branded as Specialized... I prefer riding in a more upright position- it's comfortable to me, and I don't worry about my neck. The only issue that I recall having between the Dirt Drop and the Technomic is that it was a little more difficult to walk the bike- as I usually grab on to the stem. After a while you get used to it, I really don't have much of a preference- the Technomic looks a little more traditional so that's what I've chosen.
Another factor for my bikes is having a 21" bike, the head tubes are really short- so all my stems are slammed in there- but still way up there.
Another factor for my bikes is having a 21" bike, the head tubes are really short- so all my stems are slammed in there- but still way up there.
I totally get the reason why technomic stems exist.
- to allow someone to ride a frame thats too small.
and/or
- to allow someone to ride drop bars in an upright non-traditional drop bar position.
I use Dynamic II stems for the same reasons. I have them on frames that need to get the bars up more due to the saddle height.
I also understand that aesthetically speaking, bars where the drops are even with the top tube isnt really great looking and that a 0degree isnt classic looking. But it makes the bikes fit better so I go with it.
I am not judging the people who use technomic stems in any way. They are just making the bikes they have fit so they can ride.
what's interesting is how many of us(c&v) would probably benefit from taller stack height bikes that currently flood the market. But with that often comes a sloping top tube and that brings a whole other group who judge such a bike design to not be what they like/prefer.
the few who have measurements which fit a bike with 6cm of seatpost and a slammed stem are rare.
#23
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Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
This instagram post caught my eye. Caption reads "Aesthetic Bicycle. How To Make A Beautiful Touring Bike. (New Cycling Mar. 1985" and there are a few more photos posted at the account with more detail.

It's obviously in Japanese but I can't help but wonder if there was an English language equivalent? I'd love to see the explanations for different angles and such. Aesthetic sensibilities for bicycles have always fascinated me as they seem to have become less and less important as the sport moved into modern frame design after the late 1980s. My first bikes in the early 2000s were 70s/80s road bikes that I set up per what I found on Sheldon Brown's site. The only guidelines I remember were the brake levers tips being slightly above an imaginary line extending along the bottom of the drops and that seatpost, stem and crankset were all supposed to be the same color. In 2018 it seems like most of the consideration for what a bicycle looks like is often limited to make sure the photos taken are crisp and clear and that's about it. Does anyone have their own aesthetic rules for setting up their bikes?

It's obviously in Japanese but I can't help but wonder if there was an English language equivalent? I'd love to see the explanations for different angles and such. Aesthetic sensibilities for bicycles have always fascinated me as they seem to have become less and less important as the sport moved into modern frame design after the late 1980s. My first bikes in the early 2000s were 70s/80s road bikes that I set up per what I found on Sheldon Brown's site. The only guidelines I remember were the brake levers tips being slightly above an imaginary line extending along the bottom of the drops and that seatpost, stem and crankset were all supposed to be the same color. In 2018 it seems like most of the consideration for what a bicycle looks like is often limited to make sure the photos taken are crisp and clear and that's about it. Does anyone have their own aesthetic rules for setting up their bikes?
#24
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From: Back in Lincoln Sq, Chicago...🙄
Bikes: '84 Miyata 610 ‘91 Cannondale ST600,'83 Trek 720 ‘84 Trek 520, 620, ‘91 Miyata 1000LT, '79 Trek 514, '78 Trek 706, '73 Raleigh Int. frame.
I am loving this thread! So apropos! I’ve posted about this issue I’ve got here and there so why not once more.
I’ve just picked up my dream bike, a Miyata 1K, and it’s the correct size for me /for a roadie/ but for a days-in-the-saddle build I want more of that stack hight. I’d like to get it juuuust a touch higher to get the bars and saddle even. It’s really close, and in perfect world I’d bop down to the LBS and ride the 60 size, and see if that’s where I need to be for the French fit, but this will do just fine for the foreseeable future!
So one of the forumites has graciously sold me a 0 degree black ano nitto stem. After seeing the options posted I think it will slot in perfectly. I just need a little hight, and the bike is technically a 90’s model, and I do t think the slightly up angled stem will look at all out of place! I’m excited to continue this build up!






