Headsets
 

Over thinking my recent builds, What headset would you choose?

I am thinking ease of cleaning and re-lube, prevention of Brinelling, potential Rinko setup. C&V is nice.
Chrome Moly, Chrome plated, Aluminum, Black, What have you.
What do you like and why?
Poll is first 4 for bearing type and the last 3 for headset materials.

I currently have a Tange Levin headset on my Batavus but I want to put in a roller/needle bearing headset. There is some shimmy when riding without hands which isn't that strange on a large bike such as this.

I have a Miche Primato ready but IRD's Double roller bearing model looks like it might be a good alternative as well. If I can find it for sale anywhere.

I have CK headsets on my two highest-mileage bikes that get ridden a lot in the rain. I hope they last a long time because they were expensive. Aside from those two, I have a mix of cartridge and loose bearing. Overall my preference is for headsets I can service vs. sealed bearings. Depending on the headset, it can be a pain to source cartridge bearings when they need to be replaced, and I don't mind the extra effort of maintaining my equipment. During the season I do the routine cleaning and maintenance, then work on the stuff like headsets, hubs and pedals over the winter when I don't spend as much time outside and have more time for that kind of thing.

Those IRD double roller headsets look interesting. Definitely under consideration for my next headset, whenever that is.

I have experience with caged balls and loose balls only. Of the two, I vastly prefer caged.

I put a Stonglight roller on my daily rider that came off a donor project. It's the only headset I felt had a significant difference over any of my other bikes, and I service them all. Felt super responsive and smooth, and is still on there. Just my .02

I've got experience with loose and caged ball bearing headsets (Campy Record, for example), roller bearing headsets (Stronglight Delta and A-9), and a couple of FSA cartridge bearing headsets.

Generally, I like the Stronglight roller bearing models the best, especially for vintage-ish bikes. The key attributes are that they are lightweight and durable. One bike has 50k miles on its Delta headset, and another has 35k miles on its Delta. A potential downside is that they have a different feel when adjusting the bearings.

The caged bearing headsets are nominally easier to deal with when overhauling, but that's a minor advantage compared to being more prone to brinelling. I think I've replaced the caged bearings in my Campy headsets with loose bearings for this reason (and the fact that the Campy's seem more prone to start with). Functionally, I think roller bearings are preferable to ball bearings, but the market seems to prefer ball bearings.

I was getting along with my FSA cartridge headsets until one had a bad case of moisture entry in the bottom bearing. Getting a new cartridge was a huge pain... they just weren't available for about 6 months! Is this a common issue with cartridge style headsets, or maybe just unique to a few brands? For rinko bikes, where you are pulling the fork off frequently, cartridge bearing headsets seem like the best option.

Steve in Peoria

Loose balls. I just tend to stick with what a bike came with when I get it. I don't mind servicing any bearings and like the idea of a couple extra balls in there. JMHO

For disassembly, caged, but for functionality (which wins out) loose.

Don't think I've ever seem aluminum bearings. :innocent:

Your poll list is not parallel. One can choose loose balls which can also be steel/chromolly. Also, I have never heard of aluminum bearings. Are you interested in bearing types or in the headset that uses a a particular bearing type?

For C&V application, I typically opt for one of the Tange products. Stack height considerations may limit your choices.

Tange Levin cro-mo with loose or caged balls is pretty much my go-to standard. I've also used aluminum headsets with cartridge bearings from Tange, FSA, Stronglight and others. Those work great too.

Just pick what you like and stop worrying.

Voted "caged ball" since majority of mine have that type. I did buy a Stronglight Delta, roller bearing type, for my Bianchi build though. Very smooth. That was years ago, but would probably go that way again if I need one. Usually just service what's already on there. Don

I have a roller bearing Stronglight A9, loose bearing Tange Aero, caged bearing 6400's, and sealed bearing 6400's and 105. I find them all sort of a necessary PITA. My preferences and comments:

1-Stronglight A9 with roller bearings. Light, easy to adjust, and you can lose one bearing and not really notice. The soft aluminum scrubs up nice but is prone to rounding at the corners.

2-Caged bearings. These are straightforward and simple. A bit of a pain to adjust, and I sure wish there was a "standard" caged bearing size. Easy to maintain, a little more subject to rain/grime/etc than I'd like, mainly because I keep losing those fragile plastic washers.

3-Sealed bearings. They're easy enough, and I grease them as well. They're just kind of a neutral item with me. A bit more finicky on the adjustment, but probably work for any application. Definitely quicker to deal with. Once they have an issue, disposable.

4-Loose balls. I've done the "replace caged with loose" idea, and it works, but my Tange Aero uses very small loose bearings, and those buggers can get away in a heartbeat.

Campy has about the prettiest finish, along with Dura Ace, on the headsets I use. I've never had a Chris King.

I do have one ball bearing sitting on my desk, which came from a headset somewhere somehow. I ponder it in moments of unsober reflection.

Just got reminded of one of the reasons why I love roller (needle) bearing headsets on my bikes afer I completed a couple of builds using ball bearing headsets. With the roller bearing headsets, I rarely had to readjust the headset after initial rides. With the ball bearing headsets, I had to readjust at least twice (sometimes even three times) before it is set to go. For some reason, "bedding in" for the ball bearing headsets does not happen as quickly as with roller bearing headsets. Not really that big a deal but a bit of a bummer when you think you are completely done with your build.
The bonus with roller bearing headsets is they also stay adjusted good for a long long time, requiring no attention. Plus they just never seem to wear out.

I voted for aluminum, on the assumption that the actual bearings would be steel.

I also voted for both cartridge bearings and roller bearings. If that combination were available, I'd definitely go for it. I realize I will probably have to chose one or the other... not sure which I'll chose.

I'm going to speak heresy here:
If you're going Rinko, I'm not sure how you could beat cartridge bearing threadless setups, seriously. Everything comes apart easily, little to lose, and there is no real adjustments - just crank down. YMMV.

I have an NOS JPR weight weenie headset in my stash. JPR was able to get the weight really low (67 grams, IIRC) by making the headset totally out of aluminum, except for the included loose steel ball bearings, with no separate top lock nut (locking achieved by a delrin ring insert at the top bearing cup) and having the steel ball bearings ride on bare aluminum grooves on the cups. (No steel race inserts). It's a cool super weenie headset, but I'm always wondering how long will the headset last before the bearings start digging into the aluminum races? Might these JPR headsets just be meant for track use??
Anyone try these headsets on their road bike yet?

You've answered the question: cartridge bearings. Do you want to be chasing loose balls in a dark and dirty corner of a train station somewhere as you are removing or replacing your fork for Rinko?

And yet, most Rinko bikes use threaded. The extra length of the steerer tube with a threadless setup may become an issue in terms of package size when broken down for transport.

new, old way..
 

Now Bike Friday uses a Conic Collet and a blocking ring/band clamp, above it,
2 clamp bands..
to pre-load the threadless headset bearings..

the collet gets wider as you tighten it, as outer ring/band,
blocked from moving up,
forces inner ring downward.
[I have one on my Tikit,.. the Collet,.. with the folding mast above it,
blocking the outer cone-band above it, in a similar manner..]

With the travel bikes, they are made to remove the handlebars above it..
to pack the bike.. Suitcase size.





...

I've played with the idea of getting a Chris King- but there's nothing wrong with the headsets that are on my bikes- I guess I haven't had or experienced a bad one, the ones I've had are sufficiently pretty and /or cool...

I have to admit , on a certain bike I like the Tange Levin (all steel) . Also Shimano 600 . Both are caged ball .
Tange Liven , love the chrome .

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1852/...cae88fc3_z.jpg
IMG_0004 by mark westi, on Flickr
Shimano 600 2607 - 2608 .
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1931/...21d2a8dd_z.jpg
IMG_0059 by mark westi, on Flickr

I'm also a Tange Levin guy. Almost as many balls as you can pack in loose, but without the pinball comedy when you disassemble.

I just haven't found headsets to be anything to invest in. A $15 headset can be well sealed, function as well as I care for, and last indefinitely.

get whatever inspires you.