What are the best cables/housings?
#1
Thread Starter
Fuji Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 26
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From: Kalamazoo MI
Bikes: '86 Fuji Club '80 Fuji Sport 12 '75 Fuji S10-S
What are the best cables/housings?
I am trying to find some relatively inexpensive cables for my Fuji S10-S to replace the stock ones.
I've never bought cables before and I am wondering what what other experienced enthusiasts recommend.
Also any tips or tricks would be nice. Thank you.
I've never bought cables before and I am wondering what what other experienced enthusiasts recommend.
Also any tips or tricks would be nice. Thank you.
#2
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
you don't really need "the best". I like really good. I get stainless cables, you can find them on eBay now for under 50 cents each. Are there better cables than that? Sure, but at some point, they are not much better. I buy lined housing in bulk, not really a good idea for just a single project. Do you have a co op in your area?
What I don't like are galvanized cables and unlined housing, like you get in the Walmart cable kits.
What I don't like are galvanized cables and unlined housing, like you get in the Walmart cable kits.
Last edited by wrk101; 01-12-19 at 06:33 PM.
#3
Bianchi Goddess



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#4
aire díthrub
Joined: Sep 2017
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From: chatham-savannah
Bikes: Raleigh Competition, Pashley Roadster Sovereign, Mercian Vincitore Speciale
All the major brands: shimano, jagwire, sram, alligator, etc. are all perfectly good cables that pretty much give equal performance. Can’t go wrong with any of the above. So go with what you can get on sale? The best bang for your buck will be either shimano or jagwire, depending on which one is slightly cheaper than the other on that day. Just make sure that the cables are stainless, and you should be fine.
Last edited by seamuis; 01-12-19 at 06:48 PM.
#5
Senior Member
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From: Green Bay, WI
Bikes: 88 Cannondale Criterium
I just buy the full "Jaguar" kits in any color I want for around $14 on that auction site. I'm sure there were some corners cut in putting these together, but you can't ignore the value. Comes with all the handy bits and pieces as well
#6
So it goes...


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From: W. Tennessee
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As long as the cable housings are lined I'm pretty good. I usually get mine from PorkchopBMX on le'Bay. What others said on the cables - SS pretty cheap from the same place. Same for the derailleur cables.
#8
Me duelen las nalgas

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From: Texas
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Even the low end cable kits included with some shifter kits are functional and good for a few years -- those usually have galvanized cable and low end but teflon lined cable housings, pre-greased. They'll do fine, although the cables might oxidize more quickly near sea coasts.
Stainless cable will last longer. Depending on the manufacturer there may be some stretch after installation so be prepared to re-tension the cable after a few rides. I usually run the bike on the indoor trainer through several shifts and brakings to get most of the stretch out of the way.
The main difference I've found with mid-range cable is they're a bit more flexible for looping for rear derailleurs, or under handlebars with bar end shifters. The cheapest cable housings from Shimano, like those included with RevoShift grip shifters and SunRace SLM10 thumb shifters, tend to be fairly stiff.
The Jagwire kits are handy but have increased in price over the past year or two. REI switched to a cheaper house branded cable kit. Nowadays it may be cheaper to buy mini bulk rolls of shifter and brake cable housing and stainless cables if you're doing two or more bikes. The bulk rolls from Jagwire, Sunlite, etc., include ferrule caps and cable end caps. Pretty good value, especially if I screw up or change my mind about replacing a shifter or brake position.
Stainless cable will last longer. Depending on the manufacturer there may be some stretch after installation so be prepared to re-tension the cable after a few rides. I usually run the bike on the indoor trainer through several shifts and brakings to get most of the stretch out of the way.
The main difference I've found with mid-range cable is they're a bit more flexible for looping for rear derailleurs, or under handlebars with bar end shifters. The cheapest cable housings from Shimano, like those included with RevoShift grip shifters and SunRace SLM10 thumb shifters, tend to be fairly stiff.
The Jagwire kits are handy but have increased in price over the past year or two. REI switched to a cheaper house branded cable kit. Nowadays it may be cheaper to buy mini bulk rolls of shifter and brake cable housing and stainless cables if you're doing two or more bikes. The bulk rolls from Jagwire, Sunlite, etc., include ferrule caps and cable end caps. Pretty good value, especially if I screw up or change my mind about replacing a shifter or brake position.
#9
Senior Member


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Actually, I like them too. I bought some Aztec? brand cables for one project, teflon impregnated, die drawn, the run was for an internal/external shift cable, did the job. just appear carbon black, so not bright and shiny. 40 year old campagnolo shift cables (save the bar end braided units) were not stainless either but had the cool C in a diamond impressions on the ends.
#10
Extraordinary Magnitude


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From: Waukesha WI
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
When we had a local bike shop right here- they carried several different colors of housing. After they closed up, I found the other shops around only stock black or white- which was stunning to me.
What sucks about getting the Jagwire kits for an old bike- the brake housing generally isn't long enough for non-aero brake levers- a good 2 feet of the housing is metal housing that's meant to be taped to the bars for aero cables.
I've bought some of the Jagwire bulk housing off eBay- I was really disappointed- it wasn't the same quality as the stuff I got from the LBS or in the prepackaged kits. Which reminds me, I need to pick up some housing for a couple of projects...
What sucks about getting the Jagwire kits for an old bike- the brake housing generally isn't long enough for non-aero brake levers- a good 2 feet of the housing is metal housing that's meant to be taped to the bars for aero cables.
I've bought some of the Jagwire bulk housing off eBay- I was really disappointed- it wasn't the same quality as the stuff I got from the LBS or in the prepackaged kits. Which reminds me, I need to pick up some housing for a couple of projects...
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#11
I dunno.....but I'm quite happy with the clear covered cable sets I get from Porkchop BMX....
They look exactly like the stuff I had on my bikes in the 80's and have plastic inner liners so they work nice and smooth.
They look exactly like the stuff I had on my bikes in the 80's and have plastic inner liners so they work nice and smooth.
#12
feros ferio

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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
I recently replaced the rear brake cable and housing on the Peugeot with whatever CycleQuest, a local bike shop, had in stock, and it greatly enhanced the stopping power of my Weinmann lever, Mafac centerpull caliper, and KoolStop pads.
I normally use just the front brake, unless I need to check speed on a long descent and/or come to a stop on wet or sandy pavement, but I had noticed that the rear brake was starting to become even less effective than normal.
Today's brake pads and cable housings are significantly superior to even the best offerings of the 1960s and 1970s, so these are areas in which I do not "go vintage."
I normally use just the front brake, unless I need to check speed on a long descent and/or come to a stop on wet or sandy pavement, but I had noticed that the rear brake was starting to become even less effective than normal.
Today's brake pads and cable housings are significantly superior to even the best offerings of the 1960s and 1970s, so these are areas in which I do not "go vintage."
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#13
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Years of the Teflon-coated cables had me spoiled. Now I use slick stainless. Never galvanized, I just don't like it. I had a bike shop I liked and respected, but if you asked for a cable, they always pulled galvanized out of a huge bulk box, mainly because customers almost always complained about the price.
Years of using Jagwire has me simply familiarized with it, but in the last few years, I've bought some gearing kits, both Shimano and Campagnolo, and if the cable/housing are included, I use it. I almost always use the RD housing that comes with Shimano now, as the Jagwire housing can tend to be fat.
Since I don't bulk build, I don't do inexpensive cables/housing. I want to ride the bike and I want it to work. I'd recommend spend an extra $10 on your cable/housing setup, and maybe get a can of Slick50 1-Lube. I coat my cables with it, and with all the bends and twists on many bikes these days, I think it's a good thing.
A pretty decent tri-bike mech told me that they sell a lot of SRAM lower end stuff, but use Gore cables/housing to "bring it up" to Red performance. TT/Tri cable runs need as little friction as possible, for the runs that often twist and turn inside carbon bars and frames.
That's my 2 cents, and I'm sure I owe some change; it may not be worth that.
Years of using Jagwire has me simply familiarized with it, but in the last few years, I've bought some gearing kits, both Shimano and Campagnolo, and if the cable/housing are included, I use it. I almost always use the RD housing that comes with Shimano now, as the Jagwire housing can tend to be fat.
Since I don't bulk build, I don't do inexpensive cables/housing. I want to ride the bike and I want it to work. I'd recommend spend an extra $10 on your cable/housing setup, and maybe get a can of Slick50 1-Lube. I coat my cables with it, and with all the bends and twists on many bikes these days, I think it's a good thing.
A pretty decent tri-bike mech told me that they sell a lot of SRAM lower end stuff, but use Gore cables/housing to "bring it up" to Red performance. TT/Tri cable runs need as little friction as possible, for the runs that often twist and turn inside carbon bars and frames.
That's my 2 cents, and I'm sure I owe some change; it may not be worth that.
#14
I AM AI
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#15
Senior Member

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Ditto Great value for the entire brake and shifter/ derailleur set . $13. A number of color options as well
#19
Shimano and Campagnolo make the best cables and housing. By far.
Do not buy the overpriced 'kits', which cost multiples of what you should pay for housing pulled off of a roll. We charge $2 a foot for housing. $2 per cable.
Do not buy stainless cables. Stainless strands have less flexibility than regular steel, resulting in more cable breakage, particularly inside the tight confines of shifters. Why would you need a high resistance to corrosion, when the cables are protected inside the housing? I suppose a rain commuter bike might warrant stainless.
Make sure that when you cut the shifter housing, that the ends are filed flat and clean.
Do not buy the overpriced 'kits', which cost multiples of what you should pay for housing pulled off of a roll. We charge $2 a foot for housing. $2 per cable.
Do not buy stainless cables. Stainless strands have less flexibility than regular steel, resulting in more cable breakage, particularly inside the tight confines of shifters. Why would you need a high resistance to corrosion, when the cables are protected inside the housing? I suppose a rain commuter bike might warrant stainless.
Make sure that when you cut the shifter housing, that the ends are filed flat and clean.
#20
...not the best in the Jagwire lineup, but more than adequate to all my needs:
from the Jagwire catalog here.
For my uses, the Pro stuff is not worth the cost for whatever performance enhancement it yields. But the Sport stuff is a significant upgrade from the Basic stuff.
Sport cables
Slick Galvanized or Stainless Steel An upgrade from basic cables, these galvanized or stainless steel strands are pre-stretched, then extruded through a die that removes the rough edges resulting in a smooth surface that reduces friction along the length of the cable. These cables are the most popular choice for riders balancing performance, durability and cost. The stainless steel option offers greater resistance to corrosion. Jagwire slick cables come in two types: GAS - pre-stretched, slick galvanized steel spiral-bound cables STS - pre-stretched, slick stainless steel spiral-bound cables
Slick Galvanized or Stainless Steel An upgrade from basic cables, these galvanized or stainless steel strands are pre-stretched, then extruded through a die that removes the rough edges resulting in a smooth surface that reduces friction along the length of the cable. These cables are the most popular choice for riders balancing performance, durability and cost. The stainless steel option offers greater resistance to corrosion. Jagwire slick cables come in two types: GAS - pre-stretched, slick galvanized steel spiral-bound cables STS - pre-stretched, slick stainless steel spiral-bound cables
Sport housing (CGX)
50 Meter Shop Rolls with Slick-Lube Liner • CGX-SL - high carbon, super-low compression coiled steel brake housing with Slick-Lube liner
50 Meter Shop Rolls with Slick-Lube Liner • CGX-SL - high carbon, super-low compression coiled steel brake housing with Slick-Lube liner
For my uses, the Pro stuff is not worth the cost for whatever performance enhancement it yields. But the Sport stuff is a significant upgrade from the Basic stuff.
#22
I AM AI
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From: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: 2008 S-Works Roubaix SL, 1979 Raleigh Comp GS, 1978 Schwinn Volare
Oh right hahaha. I just assume housing = black. I can see where concealing the branding on pretty much anything else would be more complicated.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#23
Old fart



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#24
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And, like the cables and housings, don't skimp on the cutters, good ones work better and last longer if not abused, a very good investment.





