Gone

Cool score. Is that your size?

That Hans Ohrt bike shop sticker has shown up before. If it has campy drop outs, you got to figure the tubing--at least the main triangle--is likely something good like reynolds 531.

I am thinking 531 main tubes and Durifort fork. I seem to recall there was a model with that MO.

Very likely^, and the Campy 1010 DO has a hole for the "Gran Sport" model Campy RD spring, that DO was introduced in the late 1950s but remained in use for a long run. Nice that the PO didn't "drew" off the RD hanger or any of the braze-ons, plus left the original paint and decals! I hope you bring it back to closer to it's former glory, nice score!
EDIT: looking again that DO may be a stamped model 1010/1, but clearly has the spring hole for the RD so maybe dates from the '60s to the '70s

I would keep the old decals and faded paint, it looks nice!

When I first got into bikes, there was a small shop near my house that sold Bertins. I thought they were beautiful bikes. This is a really good score.

If nothing else for the Hans Ohrt sticker.

But it is just that. A repop. But I can see where one would want to refinish it.

Neato survivor and amazing it wasn't 'drewed'.

If mine, would leave the original finish. Lightly scuff the scaley portions and then numerous rubbing Pledge wax.

Wow, that paint has faded.
Model C-35
Could be anywhere from 1971 to early 1973

I cannot recall if LA bike licenses lasted 4 or 5 years.
A few shops could sell them, like Hans Ohrt and others, otherwise one had to go to the police station on Saturday.

Someone has reproduced those.

The pin striping is the last of the type at that price point.

Original would have had Stronglight 49D crank set, Mafac brakes.
Hubs and derailleurs changed from order to order. you could be correct with Huret or Campagnolo Gran Sport. Hubs- Normandy Competition or Campagnolo Nuovo Tipo. Ideale 80 saddle.
Tubulars, with Milremo branded Super Champion rims. Robergel spokes.

I would be tempted to replace the Bertin seat tube panel. Kind of in concert with the rest of the finish, but it is quite torn up.

Hans Ohrt shop stickers went through an evolution.
Beverly hills
then Beverly Hills, Los Angeles.
Later added Westwood stacked below and the cyclist was exchanged for part of the logotype below the Hans Ohrt of
Lightweight
Bicycles, Inc.

Always with the Orange background.

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Congratulations on another excellent find!

Lug set is Prugnat 62/s.

Agree shield shaped blade transfer vestige is of Durifort.

Ends set appears somewhat more like 1010/1 than 1010/A. Note absence of parapet at rear for adjuster screw.

Drive side axle slot has been opened up.

Will look forward to following this as you work with it.

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Damn, that bike reeks of cool. Well done in my view!

Dean

Very cool - Nice score!

hazetguy-

Like the seatpost fix, start with the simple and work up to the complex. Run a French threaded die over the fork threads to see if they can be re-profiled after first checking to see if someone has messed up the threads with an English or Italian force fit. If that fails, a framebuilder may be able to add braze to the threads and then re-profile them with a die. Last resort (you may be getting to know your local frame guy really well) the steerer tube can be shortened and a new, upper, threaded section Tigged into place. All in ascending order of complexity and cost. Tigging allows you to switch to English threads, as well. However,it all seems a bit of a pain when a new steerer and a coat of paint to the whole bike would save a lot of complexity. And the C 35 is definitely worth the effort. C 35 steerer replacement is discussed here: https://bertinclassiccycles.wordpres...5-restoration/

Yes you could have a fresh threaded steerer (top) spliced on by a competent frame repair-person maybe even opt for a slightly taller steerer if you want that or even switch to BSC (English) threading if you want to swing that way. In my 'hood I usually recommend Bernie Mikkelsen for that steerer splice job, he's done a hundred of them and knows how to do it right.

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Steerer thread damage likely due to cycle being ridden with a loose headset adjustment.

Have had success with framebuildier "floating" some brass onto the damaged area and rethreading.

Brass plenty strong eno' to hold the threads so long as there be no misuse.

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This manner of damage oftimes due to cycle being ridden off curbs/down steps/jumps.

Suggest examine blades for any evidence of "relaxation" due to repeated vertical impacts.

Do the suggested repair and ride normally; then all should be well.

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Headset: take the top nut from the Bertin fork and see if it will thread onto a British thread fork. If it does, a former owner used an incorrect headset on your Bertin. That would help to explain the thread damage at the top of the steerer tube. Also makes the damage potentially less awful than you might at first have thought. The French standard is a smaller diameter. The British threaded headsets will thread on to the French steerer, very loose fit, and it is a bad idea. Folks do it anyway.

Juvela's idea to float some brass and rethread the existing steerer gets even more appealing if you determine that the removed headset was oversize = British.

Seatpost: is the stuck post made of aluminum or carbon composite? I cannot tell from the photo. Patience will be your friend in releasing the stuck seat post. There are methods more appropriate to aluminum than to carbon, hence the question. You might measure its diameter to get a sense of how much too large the post is for the frame tube.

Compare your Bertin frame to this one:

1970's Bertin C 132? - 61cm - A worthy save (of course!)?

which has a round Durifort decal at the top of its seat tube. Its Campagnolo 1010-1 rear drop out looks similar to yours.

Your seat tube top most decal shadow does more closely resemble a rectangular Reynolds one.

It is fun to examine the variations.

Here is a photograph of a rectangular Durifort frame tubing foil decal from a 1970s Bertin. The fork on the bicycle has a Durifort shield decal that resembles the outline on your fork.

cyclophilia-

That's a ghost 531 decal for three main tubes. That and the Durifort forks definitely makes this a C 35. Dropouts were variable and could have been stamped, Campy like shown or Milremo forged with adjuster screws. The spec would be based on distributor or shop demand.