I got to thinking and I thought it would be cool to leave the frame as is. The epitome of the industrial look. Right, no paint. However I am thinking it should have a clear coat of course. Am I crazy?!?!

Thoughts?

It would look awesome with silver components. A couple of brand, or tubing decals, would look cool under the clear coat.
Tim

"Simpsons did it"

EDIT: Hmmmm...another M63 - weird.

Thats what I have, all silver components 'cept for the seat.. Yeah get the decals and apply those, clear coat and assemble.

actually the wheels are these but I like it!

I don't think you're crazy. I've done it before - twice:





DD

Mine doesn't look as clean as yours, its kinda rough, which I still like...

There are all sorts of ways you can prep the frame in bare metal to make it look the way you want. The Colnago was brushed out to a fairly high degree while I left a matte finish on the Casati by using fairly coarse Scotchbrite pads to give it a uniform look, then clear-coated with matte, too. The Colnago has no clear whatsoever, but it also hangs indoors

DD

If I do, I'd go with the blue Gitane decals and maybe matching seat and tape in the same color (If available)

So I can buff these out? a lot of this finish throughout. I kinda like the look.

It's a great look, regardless, been done many times. I have a large early Stumpjumper in my size that will get something similar when I get around to it. May be a smoked gun bluing that I saw somewhere.

Like the @DrilliumDude rides there is a collector who did a Merz that turned out phenomenal as his finishing before paint was so good that no paint was needed if you lean this way at all.

What you have there is "filiform corrosion". It won't buff out easily. I think it looks alien and organic, akin to mycelium, and is aesthetic to my tastes. I wonder if gun blue would stain it?

p.s. I have been contemplating a similar approach to my Ghibli, going plain Jane no makeup "warts and all" in defiance of Rossin's standard of over the top ostentation. After all, it's a Rossin and apparently anything goes?

I don't mind it necessarily. The idea is growing on me. I had the crankset and fork removed professionally. Now I have to figure out how it all goes back together.

Probably best to clean oils & salts off the frame first, so you don't get any little rust spots showing through the clear coat.

Good idea!

for some reason (I have a theory) there's nearly always some "rust bloom" that grows underneath the clear. Often it's the infamous "spiderweb" variety but upshot is if you live in any climate other than "mojave desert' you will probably only have the "clean look" of raw steel under the clear for a limited time. My theory is this is always happening underneath virtually any repaint, especially when amateurs like me did the prep, it's just that you see it clear as day when the "paint" is clear! So for my money I would take this to a powder-coat shop that would go from bead-blast cabinet straight to coating and pay them for a good clear PC job, hopefully applied over a dead-spotless and bone-dry frame!

Not weird.
Very cool.

I have no idea what that would cost and that is my biggest issue. Jury is out I guess. Very little chance it will see rain and it'll be stored inside.

I went thru a rat rod phase building my '73 Super Course. I built it up to see if I liked the fit and ride quality enough to commit to paint. I do a lot of coastal riding, and was worried about rust. In the end I decided to go crazy on paint and decals, because I enjoyed the ride so much. I did like the rat rod while it lasted. No worries about dinged paint.

Naked rat rod. Seat angle and pedals were temporary.


Better with paint?

They both look great!

If you want a truly durable surface, a clear powdercoat done within a short time after the frame has been final-prepped (sanding, Scotchbrite brushing, polishing wheel or media-blasting are all possibilities depending on the look you're after) would be the best option.

However, I had the Casati media-blasted, then I went over it a bit with some 00 Scotchbrite pads. Finally, I shot Krylon matte (flat) clear and it gives a nice, even finish. It's not anywhere near as durable as PC, or even a urethane clear, but since you're not planning on it seeing rain and keeping it indoors, well, it should be fine. I have a couple rust blooms after over the past year (refinished last summer), but they are small - not much bigger than the small blemishes you posted in your pics - the same aesthetic you like.

DD

Crazy and weird then? Maybe nobody will notice?

If you can find somebody who can lightly sand blast it and then shoot clear coat you will be very pleased with the look. A powder coat shop should be able to do this for you. I'm not sure if powder coating can be done clear but I don't see why not.

Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA

Not surprisingly, others admire the "naked" aesthetic:



Yasujiro

My M63 sounds pretty great, how do you like yours?