You're not stepping on the post. I am finding the responses illuminating.

i've used chemical paint stripper on bikes a couple of times and always instantly regretted it. Removing the glibber is more work and even messier than just sanding it off in the first place. The time is spent in all the cavities and inaccessible corners with either method. Just get some good quality cloth-based sanding paper (Klingsor makes those narrow stripes on large rolls) ...

Oh the Harbor Freight tools I have destroyed in the past decade... I purchase two if I know I have a big job, planning on killing one in the process. They work fine until that just don't work at all, in my experience.

Stay away from their shovels and soldering irons.

painting is in the prep, for anything.

The question is what type of paint job are you looking for?

If you want it to be perfect, you have to get it down to bare metal, otherwise you will see blemish with any little bit of leftover paint

IME chemical is the way to go for on occasional paint job

also remember painting a frame properly takes a ton of time and is more expensive that you would think

rattle-can that you can find in auto and hardware stores can produce a fantastic finish, but it is not at all durable, auto paint is durable but more difficult to use, expensive and even more hazardous than rattle can

first you have to have a good mask

then

bare metal, acid etch primer, sandable primer, multiple color coats, and multiple clear coats

personally any more, I would a) keep the patina, and maybe clear b) send to powder coat or c) if it is a super special frame send to a good painter (noting that if it is any sort of collector bike, refinishing will reduce value

I have done a few frames with nothing but sand paper. It does take some time and effort. Some brands the paint comes off easily with sand paper. The Chicago Schwinn's don't come off so easily. The Greenville Schwinn's I haven't done yet, however, their paint does not seem as durable.

I have never used the heat gun and scrap method. Interesting because for work at home, including oil based paint, it is what I use. No one here has mentioned using this method either.

The thing with me removing paint is that I don't want to move or damage metal, so i have used a combination of paint remover and sanding. Sanding by the way includes using nail files and sticks with sand paper to get into the crevices.

As [MENTION=61707]squirtdad[/MENTION] says it also depends upon the finish that you are going for. I did one bike that I did not sand down to bare metal. I was cutting corners, With primer and more sanding it came out pretty good anyway. On bikes that I want a nice finish on, I get down to bare metal.

Also as [MENTION=61707]squirtdad[/MENTION] points out, you may want to just leave the paint alone. It is only original once. Even though I am good at painting. I don't always refinish it.

When I used to race, there was a guy in the club that was one of the faster members. His bike was rough, he didn't shave his legs, but he was fast.

Frame in question...not really a patina question. Nor original since I think this was resprayed several times. Just wondering if I can do right by it enough in an elbow grease over time way.

It's a shame really because the top coat had a color sheen to it, but they painted over the pantograph firstly, then started to remove it later on.

If you don't mind me asking, what is your aversion to using chemical strip or blasting?
Any other methods are going to be time consuming. There are safe stripping compounds out there. I have used Citristrip and it works pretty well.
What's your time worth?

Blasting/painting around here is likely a lost cause. We don't have many shops that do bikes. I am looking at one who does nice work powder-coating so I might inquire, but his prices are pretty high being the only guy who does specialized work. Chemical strip is more a health/environmental thing with me. Disposal of the waste paint and chemical strippers made me give pause.

This is the one stripper that I had considered...Biodegradeable; non-noxious fumes; in a garage. I guess vinegar and water neutralizes it. I did want to save the chrome so I might opt for that.

I have used bladed scrappers on some frames with files for the hard to reach areas. Followed by sanding with fine paper. Turned out okay but would never do this with a thin tubed machine.

Other times it was all chemical with files then sand paper.

Timely thread as well for me. I have an 86 Ironman which is going to be stripped of its rattle can skin for a orange powder coat.

Whenever I strip a bicycle frame I do it OUTSIDE. If I'm using a paint stripper I use a GEL TYPE and I wear a gas mask. If I do use a wire wheel I do so with the understanding that there are going to be lots of little wire bristles flying around and thus GOOD QUALITY safety glasses are a must.

I use Circa 1851 Gel Paint Stripper and I have the bicycle frame on a large plastic sheet. When I'm finished with the stripper I fold up that sheet so that the stripper and old paint stays in it. Then I bundle it up and dispose of it in a hazardous waste container.

Cheers

I do think media blasting of some sort is fastest and most effective but around here expensive - last frame I was going to do was over $150 for the blasting and another $300 for the single colour coating. Professional painting started at $800+ for a single colour!

I have not used chemical strippers for much the same reason as the OP, but my last 2 frames turned out great using elbow grease and various grades of sandpaper. I also tried brush painting last time for some components as I was doing this In the house and it also worked out pretty well (thanks randyjawa for the tutorial online).

To me sanding was nowhere near as onerous as it seemed it would be.

For that kind of money, you are better off sending it out.

Here:

https://www.franklinframe.com/index....&id=3&Itemid=3

...the older chromovelato finishes I've worked on have all been some kind of transparent lacquer over polished chrome. IME, hey come off pretty easily with chemical strippers. I think this is why they are so fragile in use. There's another kind of faux chromovelato that is transparent lacquer over a silver base coat. Make sure you have polished chrome underneath before you start.

this is a pearl white. I think it's factory but I'm not sure. Im not opposed to chem stripper. I'm Just wasn't sure if it would damage the chrome. Ill try a small spot and see what happens. Thank you

One thing you might consider is going to a furniture refinishing shop that in my area anyway has a big tank of stripper. They dunk the whole frame in the tank and eventually (I don't know how long they leave it in) most of the paint is gone. I have a very big pressure sandblaster that gets rid of any of the residue. A pressure type of blaster (compared to the more common suction type) uses a lot lower pressure and has a much higher flow of media.

For less than $150 you can buy a Soda blaster and blasting media for stripping the frame. This will safely strip frames with chrome sections, and the industrial baking soda is environmentally inert. I've posted a previous thread on soda-blasting chrome parts. Of course, you also need a good supply of compressed air.

...whenever I need to experiment to figure out what's going on, I usually do it on the fork. Using the fork, it is usually easier to correct mistakes. One of the main advantages of chemical paint removal is that it leaves the Chrome alone. Media blasting usually roughs polished chrome, so it's good if you want to paint/powdercoat over chrome (for increased adhesion).

Sanding only does not take years. It's square inches of frame. Try stripping the exterior of a clapboard house. That can be done by one person in a couple months. Don't be afraid of using relatively heavy grit. Builders get a lot of service out of 80 grit cloth. In any case if you do use stripper pre-sanding will make it cut faster.

Smart Strip by DuMont. Sold at most Sherwin-Williams. Slather it on heavy(HEAVY), wrap with plastic (to keep it wet), remove paint tomorrow. What downstream environmental effects are I can't tell you. For handling the stuff don't bother with gloves. If you get it in your mouth or in your eyes just wash it off, no burn, no excitement. Rinse with warm water.

Knawing it off with your teeth?

Sand Paper for me is laborious...I have been restoring a Moulton F from 1965 where the paint is hard and it is just not a possibility. I use Oven Cleaner, foam it on then wrap it in clingwrap...On the Moulton you still have to go over it with a blade, but on other bikes it has acted as dedicated paint stripper would (the one I am using is Selleys Oven Cleaner, with only a small percentage of Lye as high percentage anything is difficult to get in oz.) Is it because you are envionmentally concious you won't use chemicals ? I must admit, inhaling the Oven Cleaner in an unventilated area isn't nice (you almost choke) but you only make the mistake once!!

If I could get those prices I'd never bother doing it myself. I rechecked the "local guy"...prices went up - basic stage $900-1200 and there are two levels above that. Mind you the work is flawless. Big problem for me is I am north of the border.....

The price range I am seeing locally is $400-500 for stripping and good quality powder coating. I think I'd rather try either elbow grease and time, or might try the citristrip after reading about it. Seems pretty mild and with a bit of work sanding and wire-brushing the surface it should work for me. The Franklin pricing is pretty amazing for what they claim to do.

I have multiple projects floating around so I am in no hurry. With my luck, I'll never be able to remove the fixed cup anyhow...

I always start by using single-edge razor blades and find that I can quickly remove most of the paint on the straight tubes. It takes a while, but it's quieter and less messy than using power tools. The lugs are a bit more challenge. The remaining remnants of paint/primer is then removed with a wire brush, or sometimes chemicals. I try to avoid chemicals because I don't like having to clean up that slimy residue from the frame.

Good luck on your project.

I took my bike to a guy who doesn't "do" bikes. Primarily he powder coats auto stuff, construction stuff, and restaurant stuff.

I don't think you need a specialist at all. He bead blasted and coated my frame and fork for $100. I am sure someone like that is near you. It would probably be less than half that just to bead blast the thing.

I think you're already looking at $40-50 in materials to do it yourself. Even if your time is worth nothing, think of how much better of a job a pro will do.

I HATE using chemicals on my bicycle projects, but I do use WD40, grease and some proLink. For paint removal, I use a rubber wheel on a 1/4" drill motor. DO NOT use this with high speeds, such as those offered by a mini-grinder (will actually remove soft metals and do so quickly). Anyway, the wheels come in all sizes and are very effective, providing you avoid the high rpm concern stated...


Now, even though I stated that I hate using chemicals, I do use Polystripper to remove paint from chrome plating (any abrasive action will damage chrome). This old Torpado was stripped with Polystripper, taking great care to not contaminate or damage the decals...


The same holds true for my most recent Torpado build, however; the decals on this bike are aftermarket supplied by Cyclomondo...