Doug Fattic 

This NOS Shimano Ultegra hub has been in my stash for decades. I bought the 2 thread on small cogs with the hub but never used it. Now I don't remember if this is a 6 or 7 speed and what spacers are supposed to be used with what cogs. A short time ago I built it up with a new CR-18 rim thinking I probably had the cogs to finish it off. I do have a bunch of the old gold and black 6 speed cogs but I have long forgotten what spacers and cogs were designed to go with it and will appreciate reminders. Thanks.

ThermionicScott 

I'm pretty sure that if both of the small cogs thread on, it's Dura-Ace, requiring some rare cogs. I could be wrong...

Could you post a picture without the two cogs?

CliffordK

I was going to say uniglide, but it has a narrow spline, so it should take some sort of hyperglide cassette.

Post some photos without the sprockets, and a bit more of a side view. Do you have a width of the freehub?

It is quite possible that it will take 7-speed hyperglide cassettes which are quite common.

You may be able to also upgrade the freehub if you desire (and perhaps redish the wheel).

dddd

Early Hyperglide hub that is also threaded for a Uniglide cassette.

I can't see whether it's 7s or 8s

masi61

That hub appears to be a Shimano 600 6208 Uniglide variant (or an Ultegra 6400 “tri-color” I can’t tell for sure from the photo). It could be a 6/7 or it could be a longer 8-speed Uniglide one. The outer 2 cogs don’t thread into each other as you suggest, just the outer cog threads onto the UG freehub body to act as a lockring cog. That 2nd position cog should just slide side to side on the splines. Correct me if I’m wrong here.

PS: Doug, - thank you for putting proper down tube braze-on bosses and top tube guides on my Puch Marco Polo then repainting my frame a beautiful Indian Red metallic Imron paint color some 36 years ago. It was sent to you from International Pro Bike shop in Bellbrook Ohio who I believe contracted out frame repainting and repair jobs to you at that time. That was the loveliest, most durable paint job ever and I took really good care of that bike which I still have but have not ridden in a few years.

Do do you still accept frames for repaints? Just checking. Also, is Imron even used any more? (Sorry about going off topic).

pastorbobnlnh 

As others have pointed out, you appear to have a UG & HG compatible freehub. You have three choices, old school UG, modern HG or even a hybrid of the two.

The good news is that if you can't find the UG spacers, modern HG SRAM, Shimano, Sunrace, etc, can all work on that specific hub. If you plan to shift in friction mode, they don't even care if you run 9 speed spacers and add an extra sprocket to move from 7 to 8 speeds. Your key is to purchase HG cassettes which disassemble with either a long screw through all the sprockets or a rivet which can be ground off. Then go to town being creative with the specific gearing you desire.

rccardr 

Easy way to tell if it's 7 or 8-9-10 speed: Over locknut Dimension.
If it's 126mm, then 7- speed.
If 130mm, then 8-9-10 speed.

Don't know what tooth count those two cogs are, but UG threaded cogs came in 11/12 (for the smaller DA sized UG freehub) and 13/14 and maybe larger for the larger diameter UG freehubs on other model lines. So they could easily just be two first position UG cogs of different sizes.

Doug Fattic 

The hub says “Shimano 600” in the identifying ring and after that it has the tricolor green/light blue/dark blue band. It is 126mm between axle nuts so it isn't an 8 speed or more. What is different about this freehub compared to all the 6 speed Dura Ace hubs I used to equip on bicycles is that one of the splines is narrower and one valley between splines is wider. That is visible in the picture. Original 6 speed cogs will still fit on it just fine. The threading for the screw on cogs is larger in diameter than Dura Ace and longer as well which is why I think it needs 2 thread-on cogs. I’m sure I bought those screw on cogs (13 & 14) at the same time I bought the hub realizing I couldn’t use Dura Ace screw-on cogs. They have a built in spacer that is narrower (slimmer) than older 6sp screw on cogs. So my logical assumption is that this hub is from the 7sp era. The reason I’m not as familiar with Shimano 7sp freehubs is that I often liked to use Campy or Shimano large flange hubs matched with Shimano 7sp freewheels. My dilemma now is finding the right spacers to go with all the 6sp cogs I still have in stock.

I built this wheel to go on a frame I made as an example of how to build a frame in one of my framebuilding classes. I would describe this bicycle when it is finished as a “go for a walk” kind of bicycle. In other words something I can pop on and go for a short ride in normal clothes and shoes without the need to get all kitted out. Our city just finished the last section of a bike trail that is now very near my house and shop. I’m going to equip it with stuff taken off of frames I repainted and put new parts on. It is going to have upright handlebars with Suntour friction shifters. Around the triple front crank will be a chain guard to keep my jeans from getting tangled into the rings or chain. It is a lighter version of the internally geared bicycles we provide for pastors in Ukraine. Once I get the wheels sorted out I’ll need more advice on which old derailleurs to use that came off of bikes I’ve repainted.

Doug Fattic 

Thanks, I became friends with Pete when I used to teach high school at Spring Valley Academy in Centerville before I went to England to learn how to build and paint bicycles in the 70's. I still do repaints from time to time although now that power coating is much cheaper there isn't much demand. Most of the paint jobs I do are old Doug Fattic or now student built frames. I have to work the paint jobs around my primary job of teaching frame building classes.

Dupont Imron has changed but I still have a huge supply of old colors. I can use a 3rd party activator since Dupont no longer makes Imron activator. I primarily paint with House of Kolor paints. They have the pearls and candies and other glamor paints that are popular.

CliffordK

It should work with any new 7 speed hyperglide cassette (assuming you can shift 7 speed). They are dirt cheap ($10 to $15 online), and will shift very nicely. I'd use 12T and larger, and avoid using 11T.

The nice thing about Shimano's Uniglide/Hyperglide transition is that they are backwards compatible, so it should also wok with 6 speed or so uniglide cassettes (perhaps needing a back spacer).

I like this website for spacing, sprocket pitch, etc.
https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycl...ing_Dimensions

Sheldon Brown may be a bit more descriptive for 5 and 6 speed.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html

So, you're probably wanting either 3.15 or 3.5mm spacers.

Shimano style spacers either are simple washers without teeth, or have evenly spaced teeth, and aren't indexed.

You shouldn't need 2 threaded sprockets. So, technically the 13T and 14T are both first position sprockets.

Extra threads probably allow mounting 6 or 7 speed cassettes with some added adjustment.