Warped crank spider on Nervex crank
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 1,049
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 339 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 632 Times
in
229 Posts
Warped crank spider on Nervex crank
I posted this in mechanics section but in case anyone here can help here goes
I am finishing the assembly on a 1972 Botteccia Special I have been restoring for the Bike Exchange and after trial fitting the beautiful Nervar crank I noticed that the chain rings wobble about 2 mm side to side.
Closer inspection indicates that one of the 3 spider arms is slightly bent. I am going to try to bend it back and am looking for advice on how to do it.
Has anyone had this problem before and if so how did you fix it.
Thanks, I will post pics when finished.
Cap'n Jonny
I am finishing the assembly on a 1972 Botteccia Special I have been restoring for the Bike Exchange and after trial fitting the beautiful Nervar crank I noticed that the chain rings wobble about 2 mm side to side.
Closer inspection indicates that one of the 3 spider arms is slightly bent. I am going to try to bend it back and am looking for advice on how to do it.
Has anyone had this problem before and if so how did you fix it.
Thanks, I will post pics when finished.
Cap'n Jonny
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 14,266
Mentioned: 415 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3811 Post(s)
Liked 3,340 Times
in
2,180 Posts
-----
when the wobble is in the form of a shallow wave it is usually as you state - at the level of the spider
this is easier to tweak into alignment than when it is out at the level of the dentition
one purpose made tool for this is the LaJeunesse chainwheel straightener from Bicycle Research Products
it has a narrow slot on one end for chainwheels and a wider slot on the other end for spider arms
alternately, one can simply employ an old fsshioned monkey wrench
https://jimlangley.blogspot.com/2010...hainrings.html
-----
when the wobble is in the form of a shallow wave it is usually as you state - at the level of the spider
this is easier to tweak into alignment than when it is out at the level of the dentition
one purpose made tool for this is the LaJeunesse chainwheel straightener from Bicycle Research Products
it has a narrow slot on one end for chainwheels and a wider slot on the other end for spider arms
alternately, one can simply employ an old fsshioned monkey wrench
https://jimlangley.blogspot.com/2010...hainrings.html
-----
Last edited by juvela; 03-15-20 at 04:51 PM. Reason: spellin'
#3
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,194
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1565 Post(s)
Liked 1,296 Times
in
866 Posts
I fix hundreds like this, and generally use a wood dowel and 3# hammer to move the spider arms. I strike the bolt area rather than apply any bending force to the rings(s), since the latter is far more likely to break off a spider tab.
Another thing I often do first is to reposition the crank 90-degrees on the spindle, re-torque partially, then continue checking each of the remaining two positions for the one with the best true.
Often this alone offers significant improvement, and surprisingly enough I can test all four positions in about ten minutes.
Remember to re-torque fully to around 30 ft-lb after finding the best position.
Another thing I often do first is to reposition the crank 90-degrees on the spindle, re-torque partially, then continue checking each of the remaining two positions for the one with the best true.
Often this alone offers significant improvement, and surprisingly enough I can test all four positions in about ten minutes.
Remember to re-torque fully to around 30 ft-lb after finding the best position.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 11,674
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1372 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,751 Times
in
938 Posts
This is how I deal with that sort of problem but please take the time to read the whole article and then give it a try...
Grand Premio Crank Truing...
Grand Premio Crank Truing...
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
#5
Senior Member
This was a very common bike shop task BITD. Several ways to fix it. I always did it with the VAR or Bicycle Research tool meant for the purpose. I worked in a shop, had access to the tools, and that's how I was instructed to do it.
The main thing is to remember it's like truing wheels. Proceed carefully and methodically. If as you say it's just one arm of the spider that's bent, should be pretty simple. I'd suggest you pull the chainrings off and verify that they are flat first. Those are harder to true if they are warped.
The main thing is to remember it's like truing wheels. Proceed carefully and methodically. If as you say it's just one arm of the spider that's bent, should be pretty simple. I'd suggest you pull the chainrings off and verify that they are flat first. Those are harder to true if they are warped.