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Adventures in "Adventure" Gearing

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Old 04-27-20 | 06:40 AM
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Adventures in "Adventure" Gearing

This is a pre-Y2K bike so I'm calling it semi-vintage.

Original setup (OEM):
  • 12-25 Cassette (9s) on RD-5503-GS (Shimano 105 9s triple medium cage)
  • 52-42-30 Triple Rings (130/74) FC-5503 with FD-5503 (Shimano 105 9s)
  • ST-550X? - 3x9 Shimano 105 STIs
I needed new chainrings. I had the classic chainring slippage/disengagement under load when I tried a new chain so it was off to do some research. This is my "adventure" bike (650b conversion) so a little lower gearing would be alright in my book. Over in the 650b Google Group there was a long gearing discussion on these types of bikes. I was originally planning on 46/30 with an 11-34 or 11-36 cassette, but reading numerous posts from others steered me towards 44/28 with 11-32. This was going to be set up as a 1x-bailout, riding the 44t in the middle position with the best chainline most of the time. Bailout to the 28t when needed (only for lowest 2-3 gears).

Per Peter White's TA Chainring page, the TA inner rings may not work on the 74 BCD spider of other brands. So I didn't want to pay a premium and have something not work. I ordered some cheaper Spa Cycles rings:So I finally got around to installing the rings. Since I ordered the tabs to go on the outside, the old bolts (for a ring on each side of the 130 BCD spider) worked fine. Shifting with the triple front derailleur left much to be desired. It wasn't impossible to get it to shift, but if it's struggling on the stand it usually doesn't get better when you're in the saddle. Also the channels or grooves in the triple front derailleur didn't really align, so even when I got it semi-workable it rubbed in all but a couple gears, so I couldn't use it as a 1x-bailout as planned. I tried moving it up, down, toe-in, toe-out, parallel - nothing got it to work better. The best was actually leaving it around the normal position, and faking it almost as a low-middle setup only. The other issue with the triple was getting the high limit set - even with the screw fully threaded in, it was still at bit too far outboard.

After reading several threads on the Shimano FD-CX70 front derailleur, I went ahead and found one (thanks to the sales group here). It worked a charm with the rings and 9s STI. Other anecdotal evidence suggested using a 10s chain, so I went ahead and fitted one (never tried the 9s) as I wanted to get the full range out of the middle ring for my 1x-bailout setup, and I figured the wider 9s would be more likely to rub.

It didn't take too long to get it dialed in, and I'm very happy with the results. Shifting is good, not as crisp as the OEM setup but it's good. The middle ring from Spa has ramps/pins - I'm not sure if they're aligned quite right or not for great shifting, but it does work well enough for my use. It uses clicks 1-4 of the triple shifter (trimming on each small and middle) and the 5th click is locked out by the high limit screw.

For the rear, the triple derailleur clears the 32 cog, but I do have the rear pulled all the way back in the dropouts (removed the adjusters). Technically I'm right at the max capacity of the GS but it works without any issues.

For the gearing, the 44/11 is good enough for my use, especially given the "adventure" nature of this bike for me. Given I had a 52/12, it's only about 8% lower gearing. On the low end, on my first decent ride, I found myself in the 1:1 (28-28) once, so it was nice to know I had one more gear if I needed it.

Hope this helps anyone in a similar situation. Reach out if you have any other questions, I've glossed over a lot of details. Take care and stay safe everyone.

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Old 04-27-20 | 06:53 AM
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I use friction exclusively so its a different ballgame but i used to use a 130 74 crank for touring. I went with a 41 24 in front and a bash guard. Worked great because i could trim the front mech and used an rsx front derailleur meant for a 46 tooth ring. The hardest thing in those setups is the front mech.
cool you got it working.
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Old 04-28-20 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 52telecaster
I use friction exclusively so its a different ballgame but i used to use a 130 74 crank for touring. I went with a 41 24 in front and a bash guard. Worked great because i could trim the front mech and used an rsx front derailleur meant for a 46 tooth ring. The hardest thing in those setups is the front mech.
cool you got it working.
You know, I thought about friction but wanted to try the better suited derailleur first (otherwise I'd be trimming all the time with only 2-3 gears workable per position!). I've got a set of downtube levers getting dusty in the bin. I also thought about bar ends, but same deal, wanted to give it a go first. It upshifts best if I throw it to about 3.5 clicks (1-2 is small ring, 3-4 big) if that makes any sense, kind of like I got used to doing in college with a friction lever (overshift a tad). Whether that's correct form is beyond me!

I also like the bash guard idea, but I didn't convince myself and I'm still on the fence (hence the tabs). When you buy a bash guard, and it says size "44" is that matched up for a 44t ring (i.e. slightly larger than the outer tooth diameter)? Like would I buy a 44 or a 46 or something else to match up with a 44? Does it even matter?
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Old 04-28-20 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by AJI125
You know, I thought about friction but wanted to try the better suited derailleur first (otherwise I'd be trimming all the time with only 2-3 gears workable per position!). I've got a set of downtube levers getting dusty in the bin. I also thought about bar ends, but same deal, wanted to give it a go first. It upshifts best if I throw it to about 3.5 clicks (1-2 is small ring, 3-4 big) if that makes any sense, kind of like I got used to doing in college with a friction lever (overshift a tad). Whether that's correct form is beyond me!

I also like the bash guard idea, but I didn't convince myself and I'm still on the fence (hence the tabs). When you buy a bash guard, and it says size "44" is that matched up for a 44t ring (i.e. slightly larger than the outer tooth diameter)? Like would I buy a 44 or a 46 or something else to match up with a 44? Does it even matter?
i think it is intended for that size. Usually i just make a guard out of an old chainring. I have a bench sander that works well for that.
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Old 04-28-20 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 52telecaster
i think it is intended for that size. Usually i just make a guard out of an old chainring. I have a bench sander that works well for that.
That's a great idea! I have the old worn 52t outer ring. Could fire up the drill and Dremel and play around with some patterns too if I get motivated and/or bored...
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Old 04-28-20 | 11:40 AM
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I’ve used 105 and Ultregra triple STI triples for ages without issue. I’m pushing them way past the limits that Shimano says you can. My touring bike (not “vintage” but it is a classic 2010 Cannondale T1) has a 46/34/20 crank tied to an 11-36 9 speed cassette. And shifts wonderfully in any gear combination. I’ve never had any issues with setting up or using STI triples on my bikes (I have 3 with STI).



You made a good choice on going to a different Shimano front derailer. Shimano’s expensive derailers are too clever and the cleverness makes them difficult to set up. The cage for the derailer is narrower than their cheaper models and thus less forgiving. The cheap deriailers (Tiagra and down) are wider and less fussy about set up.

The front derailer on the one above is a Claris or Sora. It works just fine with a 46 tooth chainwheel. It will even work with a 44 tooth chainwheel.
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Old 04-28-20 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I’ve used 105 and Ultregra triple STI triples for ages without issue. I’m pushing them way past the limits that Shimano says you can. My touring bike (not “vintage” but it is a classic 2010 Cannondale T1) has a 46/34/20 crank tied to an 11-36 9 speed cassette. And shifts wonderfully in any gear combination. I’ve never had any issues with setting up or using STI triples on my bikes (I have 3 with STI).



You made a good choice on going to a different Shimano front derailer. Shimano’s expensive derailers are too clever and the cleverness makes them difficult to set up. The cage for the derailer is narrower than their cheaper models and thus less forgiving. The cheap deriailers (Tiagra and down) are wider and less fussy about set up.

The front derailer on the one above is a Claris or Sora. It works just fine with a 46 tooth chainwheel. It will even work with a 44 tooth chainwheel.
What's your setup? That's an 8 speed XTR r derailleur, right? And you are using STI 10 speed and it's shifting just fine? 10 speed chain? This seems crazy to me that it's working ok. I struggled with my 10 speed 105 shifters shifting a 9 speed mountain shifter and that's what the internet said would work.
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Old 04-28-20 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by tricky
What's your setup? That's an 8 speed XTR r derailleur, right? And you are using STI 10 speed and it's shifting just fine? 10 speed chain? This seems crazy to me that it's working ok. I struggled with my 10 speed 105 shifters shifting a 9 speed mountain shifter and that's what the internet said would work.
Many would consider it an extreme kludge job. It’s an 8 speed XTR rear, 9 speed Shimano 105 shifters, 9 speed 11-36 cassette (Sunrace), a Shimano 9 speed front triple and a Shimano XT crank that has been modified to run a 20 tooth inner with 46/34/20 rings. It works quite well.
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Old 04-28-20 | 12:21 PM
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Those chainring tabs are a very cool idea, never seen them before.

Agreed that the CX70 (which I think was originally developed for cycle cross applications where guys ride unusual gear cokbos) is a great derailleur for unusual shifting challenges.
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