Topo hub
05-28-20 | 03:02 PM
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Ottawa, Canada
Bikes: Raleigh Classic 15, 84; Miyata 912, 85; Miyata Ridge Runner SE, 85; Miyata 610, 86; Miyata 100M, 86; Miyata Valley Runner, 88; Miyata Triple Cross, 89; GT Karakoram, 90; Miyata Elevation 300, 91; Marinoni Touring, 95; Long Haul Trucker, 2013
Topo hub
Anyone know anything about this hub?
I was given the wheel today by a fellow who's moving, and needed to get rid of some his hoard.
Looks like sealed bearings?
I was given the wheel today by a fellow who's moving, and needed to get rid of some his hoard.
Looks like sealed bearings?
05-28-20 | 03:37 PM
#2
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Topo was the house brand of parts and accessories for Performance Bicycle Shop, the large mail order business in Chapel Hill, NC. The brand first appeared in the mid-1990s. I have no experience with them and don't know where they were sourced but like many any hubs of the era, they are Shimano Parallax clones.
05-28-20 | 05:20 PM
#3
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 821
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From: Ottawa, Canada
Bikes: Raleigh Classic 15, 84; Miyata 912, 85; Miyata Ridge Runner SE, 85; Miyata 610, 86; Miyata 100M, 86; Miyata Valley Runner, 88; Miyata Triple Cross, 89; GT Karakoram, 90; Miyata Elevation 300, 91; Marinoni Touring, 95; Long Haul Trucker, 2013
Thanks T-Mar.
It seems to run smoothly, so I don't need to know, but I don't see how it comes apart.
It seems to run smoothly, so I don't need to know, but I don't see how it comes apart.
Last edited by John Nolan; 05-28-20 at 05:25 PM.
05-28-20 | 05:36 PM
#4
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Set screw on the nut is going to have to be loosened before the right cone comes off.
Start on the non-drive side. Pull away the conical rubber shield and go at the locknut and cone in the normal manner.
These Taiwanese hubs often turn out to be made by the factory producing Joytech hubs, and tend to be of quite-decent quality, especially the bearings.
Be sure that some axle bearing free-play is present before tightening the QR lever upon installation in the frame! Bearings thus over-tensioned by axle compression are the reason why so many good hubs turn up with pitted bearing cones.
Start on the non-drive side. Pull away the conical rubber shield and go at the locknut and cone in the normal manner.
These Taiwanese hubs often turn out to be made by the factory producing Joytech hubs, and tend to be of quite-decent quality, especially the bearings.
Be sure that some axle bearing free-play is present before tightening the QR lever upon installation in the frame! Bearings thus over-tensioned by axle compression are the reason why so many good hubs turn up with pitted bearing cones.
05-28-20 | 06:49 PM
#7
Phyllo-buster
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Nova Scotia
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
05-28-20 | 08:01 PM
#8
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 821
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From: Ottawa, Canada
Bikes: Raleigh Classic 15, 84; Miyata 912, 85; Miyata Ridge Runner SE, 85; Miyata 610, 86; Miyata 100M, 86; Miyata Valley Runner, 88; Miyata Triple Cross, 89; GT Karakoram, 90; Miyata Elevation 300, 91; Marinoni Touring, 95; Long Haul Trucker, 2013
I had forgotten Topo Gigio—and I'm a puppeteer!
Thanks for the memory.
Thanks for the memory.
