Pedal removal 1987 Schwinn Tempo
#1
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From: North of Boston
Bikes: 2003 Lemond Alpe D' Huez... plus a " few" more :)
Pedal removal 1987 Schwinn Tempo
I am not sure how to remove these pedals
Do I use an allen wrench or pedal wrench ?
I still believe pedals loosen toward the rear of the bike
Please see pic.
Thank you
Appreciate any and all help
Do I use an allen wrench or pedal wrench ?
I still believe pedals loosen toward the rear of the bike
Please see pic.
Thank you
Appreciate any and all help
#2
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 260
From: North of Boston
Bikes: 2003 Lemond Alpe D' Huez... plus a " few" more :)
Would you hold the allen wrench at the back of the pedal and loosen with the pedal wrench ?
Or just use the pedal wrench ?
Seems simple, but I do not want to " strip" by mistake
Thank you for all the help !!
Or just use the pedal wrench ?
Seems simple, but I do not want to " strip" by mistake
Thank you for all the help !!
#3
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Joined: Feb 2018
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A pedal wrench is best, more leverage. And Allen wrench will work, may need a Cheater bar or something for more leverage. I have never used both. Be careful of where your hand and the wrench are positioned, so when it breaks free, you dont drive your hand into chainring tech or something similar
#4
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From: Magnolia State, 100° with 110% humidity
Bikes: American, Italian, and Japanese.. in no particular order.
SurferRosa is saying use the pedal wrench first for the leverage to break free, and then use the Allen wrench/hex key for speedy removal. I try to orient the wrench so that I can squeeze the wrench and crank arm towards each other to break free. Or you could loosen with a wrench and then grab the pedal and crank forward or reverse depending on the side being removed. This will back the threads out of the crank arm.
#6
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From: Port Angeles, WA
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
First step: Soak pedal threads with PB Blaster, then...
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#8
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From: Near Pottstown, PA: 30 miles NW of Philadelphia
Bikes: 2 Trek Mtn, Cannondale R600 road, 6 vintage road bikes
Allen/hex keys are too long, even hex key sockets. The force you apply to the tool is partially applied to loosening the pedal and largely applied to caming the tool out of out of the pedal. As stated, get it loose with the pedal wrench and finish with the Allen key if you like. If I cannot squeeze the pedal wrench against a crank arm, I'll often lash the opposite crank arm to a chain stay to immobilize it, then force the pedal wrench.
Oh, and never loosen nor tighten a fitting with that ball end of the Allen key. In fact, cut those ball ends off and bin em. There's no place for them in a bike shop. ( how's that for an inflammatory remark?)
#9
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From: Madison, WI USA
Of the dozen or so sets of clipless pedals I've had, I would guess one, maybe two, were allen wrench only. If most were allen wrench only, that would severely restrict choices for those with crank arms with closed-end pedal threads (which, granted, are rare).
#10
Back to OP‘s original question, I usually use just the allen wrench but an open end wrench is certainly better for pipe extensions and hammering if needed.




