MKS pedals
#1
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MKS pedals
Any thoughts on these pedals? The price was right so I picked them up.
I also grabbed velo orange straps.
I also grabbed velo orange straps.
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#2
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Mikashima's Sylvan pedals are nice. I don't personally like the Sylvan quills like you're showing, but the Sylvain touring/platform pedals in the same family are really nice.
I feel like the quality isn't as good as it was 15-20 years ago, and I swear the newer ones are heavier than the old, but still a good quality pedal.
I feel like the quality isn't as good as it was 15-20 years ago, and I swear the newer ones are heavier than the old, but still a good quality pedal.
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I have a vintage pair of MKS quills on one bike and a new pair of Sylvan touring pedals on another, and I love them. Solid and reliable, excellent product. Those look like the track pedals, which are a smidge narrower than the others. I have half clips on mine (no straps), and it's the perfect level of retention/positioning for my feet.
#4
incazzare.
Are those the track version? The pedal ends hurt my feet a bit when wearing sneakers. I love the quill/road version however. My favorites.
Those VO straps, on the other hand, I do not like. They are really soft and floppy feeling and I have a hard time getting into and out of them without them getting twisted. Toe straps need to be stiffer IMO.
Those VO straps, on the other hand, I do not like. They are really soft and floppy feeling and I have a hard time getting into and out of them without them getting twisted. Toe straps need to be stiffer IMO.
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1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
#5
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Not fully on topic, but I enjoy MKS’ Instagram page.
#6
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i recently bought a set of pedals exactly like that (Sylvan Track), new in packaging. yes, those are the "track" version. i was a little surprised at the "gritty" feeling of the bearings, especially for new pedals. I added some grease, and I guess i'm expecting them to 'break in' a little with some use.
edit to say that at the same time i bought the new pair, i also bought a used pair (Sylvan Track) and the bearings in those are super smooth.
edit to say that at the same time i bought the new pair, i also bought a used pair (Sylvan Track) and the bearings in those are super smooth.
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MKS, one of best bargains in cycling, yep, a bit gritty when new, extra preload for the break in.
They are very well made, fully and easily rebuildable like always.
I have at least half a dozen pairs from the last 5 years, all spin well, look good.
They will take a beating and just keep on going.
The casting where toe straps go through can be tight, sharp and will chew them a bit if you are impatient.
I ream them a bit with a file and treat the straps with some leather dressing for easier insertion.
They are very well made, fully and easily rebuildable like always.
I have at least half a dozen pairs from the last 5 years, all spin well, look good.
They will take a beating and just keep on going.
The casting where toe straps go through can be tight, sharp and will chew them a bit if you are impatient.
I ream them a bit with a file and treat the straps with some leather dressing for easier insertion.
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Never needed to on any of mine, still may not be a bad idea to add some grease.
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i recently bought a set of pedals exactly like that (Sylvan Track), new in packaging. yes, those are the "track" version. i was a little surprised at the "gritty" feeling of the bearings, especially for new pedals. I added some grease, and I guess i'm expecting them to 'break in' a little with some use.
edit to say that at the same time i bought the new pair, i also bought a used pair (Sylvan Track) and the bearings in those are super smooth.
edit to say that at the same time i bought the new pair, i also bought a used pair (Sylvan Track) and the bearings in those are super smooth.
I've got the MKS Sylvan pedals on a few(?) bikes. They have been fine, such as on my Hetchins...
I did file the MKS logo off of the dust cap, but the shape of the dust cap tells you that it's not a Campy pedal.
Steve in Peoria
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Is it the non-drive side? Remember, that one is left-hand thread, so it removes clockwise. If it's not that, try some penetrating oil and let it sit for a while (at least a few hours, maybe overnight).
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#13
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Tis the non drive side - I have penetrating oil on it and have been whacking it with a hammer for some hours now. It’ll get there or it’ll go to the shop!
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They are nice pedals. I’ve got them on one bike with many miles and they are smooth. I prefer Campy Superleggeri but the MKS pedals are just as reliable.
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@steelbikeguy, @hazetguy
From their website,
So we, MKS deliver our pedals “preloaded”-a slightly over tighten condition to extend maintenance span.
At initial ride, you may feel the rotation is not completely smooth, but after running in, it will be smoother.
And all of MKS pedals are hand-adjusted at final stage of assembly.
This is done on purpose to allow for break-in.
From their website,
So we, MKS deliver our pedals “preloaded”-a slightly over tighten condition to extend maintenance span.
At initial ride, you may feel the rotation is not completely smooth, but after running in, it will be smoother.
And all of MKS pedals are hand-adjusted at final stage of assembly.
This is done on purpose to allow for break-in.
Last edited by merziac; 08-05-20 at 05:46 PM.
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i recently bought a set of pedals exactly like that (Sylvan Track), new in packaging. yes, those are the "track" version. i was a little surprised at the "gritty" feeling of the bearings, especially for new pedals. I added some grease, and I guess i'm expecting them to 'break in' a little with some use.
N.B. the dustcap takes the same wrench as Campagnolo, Gipiemme, Ofmega, and others. The MKS version of the dustcap wrench is quite affordable and better than mangling the caps with a pliers or other crude implement.
https://www.benscycle.com/mks-sylvan...173-11/product
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My experience is that MKS pedals tend to ship with the bearing adjusted on the tight side. Loosen the cone a smidge and they'll be fine.
N.B. the dustcap takes the same wrench as Campagnolo, Gipiemme, Ofmega, and others. The MKS version of the dustcap wrench is quite affordable and better than mangling the caps with a pliers or other crude implement.
https://www.benscycle.com/mks-sylvan...173-11/product
N.B. the dustcap takes the same wrench as Campagnolo, Gipiemme, Ofmega, and others. The MKS version of the dustcap wrench is quite affordable and better than mangling the caps with a pliers or other crude implement.
https://www.benscycle.com/mks-sylvan...173-11/product
See post #16
#19
Senior Member
I take that as “people who don’t know how to maintain pedals wont have to for awhile,” rather than “breaking in.” Why would you ride with overly tight pedals, when you have the knowledge and ability to have and maintain appropriate adjustment?
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Maybe but preload which is what the MKS site talks about is the right way to adjust cup and cone bottom brackets. I could see why this could make sense for pedals as well. You obviously would not want to do this for hubs and the headset.
#21
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The MKS team talks about “yes the bearings are tight, but they will ‘break in’ to appropriate tension.”
The other team says “adjust to appropriate tension, and maintain to keep that way.”
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Here is the discussion from the website:
https://www.mkspedal.com/?q=en/product/node/310
Last edited by bikemig; 08-05-20 at 07:01 PM.
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The pedal caps may unscrew. Especially with toe-clips, the sole of your shoe can rub on the serrations and unscrew it; usually the left one if you mount from the right side.
Get the correct tool so you can make them tight - and maybe some loctite.
Get the correct tool so you can make them tight - and maybe some loctite.
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Good call everyone on these being the track version. I knew my vision has been seriously degrading in the last two years, but clearly it's worse than I thought. Or was it my memory? I forget...
Tip: Reinstall the other pedal so you have something to torque against. Put your foot on the other pedal you just reinstalled to offer leverage and a way to lock the crank arms in place. You may find it easier to stand over the bike reverse-cowgirl for added leverage, foot on the pedal you just reinstalled, and put your weight into it.
It also helps to have a proper long pedal wrench. But if you don't, a standard wrench with a cheater bar, like 1" copper pipe, may prove to add extra oomph.
It also helps to have a proper long pedal wrench. But if you don't, a standard wrench with a cheater bar, like 1" copper pipe, may prove to add extra oomph.
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...I like MKS, as a company. They make my life easier. Their version of the old Lyotard platform pedal is exquisite.
...I like MKS, as a company. They make my life easier. Their version of the old Lyotard platform pedal is exquisite.