Put out to rust.
#1
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Norway
Put out to rust.

Bought this one from someone who was not bicycle guy. It was stored outside in his gsrden,probably been there for a long time. Sad with so much rust, bearings sre smooth. Datecode on RD is 1975.




#2
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From: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
That is a great bike. I like those honeycomb drop outs.
Evaporust will take care of the parts. I'd give the frame an oxalic acid bath. The rust on the chrome might be tough.
Evaporust will take care of the parts. I'd give the frame an oxalic acid bath. The rust on the chrome might be tough.
#3
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From: Greenwood SC USA
Bikes: 2002 Mercian Vincitore, 1982 Mercian Colorado, 1976 Puch Royal X, 1973 Raleigh Competition, 1971 Gitane Tour de France and others
No matter how it looks, it will probably have an awesome ride. Gitanes of that level are special, particularly those with full 531 frames!
#4
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I spent a year on an ItalVega that was a lot worse off and it came out nice. Mine had been left in a field in Moro Bay California, a real foggy cool beach town. I used many different methods from scraping the rust off to very fine steel wool. None of the rust had entered the bearing races or inside the frame. It is my patina bike and I like the way it looks. You can read about it on my blog. joesvintageroadbikes.wordpress, Rusty Resurection.
#6
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From: Northwest Arkansas
Bikes: 72 Motobecane Grand Record (X2), 1985 Trek 770, 2018 Steve Rex Custom, Crust Lightning Bolt Canti
Great potential on that bike. Please make it all it can be. But that saddle, is that a Cinelli Buffalo #3 ? I road 80 miles on one of those in 1976. I was crippled for a week! Just looking at it gives me nightmares
#7
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From: Seattle WA
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
Evaporust, wax and ride it as a rat rod/patina/survivor. Nice rescue
#8
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From: Upper Left, USA
Is that a Tour de France? Funny, that's how I got my '84 tomato red Gitane TdF. It was in a friend's neighbor's front yard. It was in Texas and not in the direct sun so despite a the crankset being frozen to the spindle and the delrin Ofmega components turning to dust, it was in pretty great shape. I think the guy was happy to get rid of some "trash"!
#9
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From: Oakland, CA
Bikes: '82 Univega Competizione, '72 Motobecane Grand Record, '83 Mercian KOM Touring, '85 Univega Alpina Uno, '76 Eisentraut Limited
That doesn't look too bad, to be honest. Check the inside of the tubes, and if the worst of it is the fork/stay ends, then you could dip them in Evaporust without having to use too much (tall, narrow container).
#10
aka Tom Reingold




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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Unfortunately, our bikes are rusting in our humid barns. We have no choice, as we have no garage, and our house is small. I disassemble and grease and reassemble as frequently as I can, but I'm losing overall.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#11
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 78 Masi Criterium, 68 PX10, 2016 Mercian King of Mercia, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr
Definitely not a bike guy. That had to have been someone's pride and joy once upon a time.
Cosmetically, evaporust or oxalic acid followed by chrome polish will likely make that look acceptable. The chainstays are pretty bad though. I'd consider a rechrome and repaint down the road, if you really like the bike, and plan to keep and ride it yourself. As you probably already know, when rust is removed like this, it doesn't actually repair the damage. What you really are doing is polishing the underlying steel so that you don't easily notice the chrome is gone in spots, and it can easily rust again if not kept after.
Cosmetically, evaporust or oxalic acid followed by chrome polish will likely make that look acceptable. The chainstays are pretty bad though. I'd consider a rechrome and repaint down the road, if you really like the bike, and plan to keep and ride it yourself. As you probably already know, when rust is removed like this, it doesn't actually repair the damage. What you really are doing is polishing the underlying steel so that you don't easily notice the chrome is gone in spots, and it can easily rust again if not kept after.
#13
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Joined: Apr 2007
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Holdsworth
There’s a jackass a couple block over from me with a once nice old Holdsworth (all campy) sitting propped up outside on his fence. He had it in the back of his pick up with a bunch of scrap. I stopped and offered him 200 dollars for it five or six years ago, and he says: “oh **** I forgot to take that out back, my brother tells me it’s worth 1500 dollars”. It’s been leaning against the fence outside ever since.
#15
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From: ETX/ SNH
Bikes: 2011 Handsome/ Twin Six Speedy Devil, 2006 Soma Groove, 1991 Haro Impulse Comp, 1987 KHS Montana Pro, 1986 Ross Mount Hood, 1986 Mongoose ATB, 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker I, 1973 World Voyageur, 1941 Schwinn DX "Klunker"
Some wadded up aluminum foil and light oil will fix that rust on the stays and fork socks. My World Voyageur looked just like that. Cannot tell it was ever rusty now.
#16
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From: ETX/ SNH
Bikes: 2011 Handsome/ Twin Six Speedy Devil, 2006 Soma Groove, 1991 Haro Impulse Comp, 1987 KHS Montana Pro, 1986 Ross Mount Hood, 1986 Mongoose ATB, 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker I, 1973 World Voyageur, 1941 Schwinn DX "Klunker"
Here is a before and halfway through the process.


#17
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From: Norway
The chainstays are bad, the rest of the bike has "patina" and I got a lot of the rust off with alluminium foil and some bio hubcleaner. Headset and BB are in great condition, haven't opened the hubs yet. Quite a lot of rust on the spokes, how do I know if they are safe to ride? This will be my only proper vintage bike, must get some old shoes for the pedals(and some Binda straps).
#18
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race

Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
The spokes would be safe to ride on if they are tensioned to an adequate and sufficiently-uniform tension level for the loading that they will see.
They typically would only fail one at a time if ridden long enough to bring on fatigue failure. I've ridden much worse-looking spokes but the brand of spokes can be much more important than differences in the level of corrosion..
They typically would only fail one at a time if ridden long enough to bring on fatigue failure. I've ridden much worse-looking spokes but the brand of spokes can be much more important than differences in the level of corrosion..
#19
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From: Minneapolis
Bikes: 1960 Carlton Franco Suisse,1974 Peugeot PX10, 1970 Hetchins, 1953 Rotrax Super Course, 1972 and 78 Raleigh Professionals, 1972 Schwinn Paramount, 1972 Motobecane Le Champion, 1965 and 67 Carlton Flyers, 1975 Raleigh International, 1972 Gitane TDF
The chrome does look a bit rough but the paint and decals sure look pretty to me. A truly awesome find! I’d keep it forever and ever if it were mine.
#20
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Norway
The spokes would be safe to ride on if they are tensioned to an adequate and sufficiently-uniform tension level for the loading that they will see.
They typically would only fail one at a time if ridden long enough to bring on fatigue failure. I've ridden much worse-looking spokes but the brand of spokes can be much more important than differences in the level of corrosion..
They typically would only fail one at a time if ridden long enough to bring on fatigue failure. I've ridden much worse-looking spokes but the brand of spokes can be much more important than differences in the level of corrosion..





