Just got a Raleigh Grand Prix, $50, which here in NY is a great deal on a fine vintage ride. I got on the thing, and it rides like a dream--perfect size for me, too. It's dirty as hell and needs a serious cleaning/lubing, but it's in very good shape considering its neglect.

Seat tube has a label that reads, "Made under Gazelle, Holland." Anyone tell me where to find the serial #, and if so, what to look for? Would it be pure blasphemy to put on alloy rims and maybe a newer freewheel? I can't believe how nice the ride is, and for an all-steel bike, I'm also quite surprised at how relatively light it is. Anyone give me a little background? It has cottered cranks if that helps to date it at all,

max

What color is it?

Red, with a Simplex derailer and high-flange hubs.

I'd change to modern alum rims.--700s would be best but you night have to do some work on the brakes to get them to work.---sam

But nashbar has some 27" rims for about ten bucks each. Seems I could just buy those and transfer the spokes/hub over from the original wheels. If I go with 700c rims, I'd have to basically build up new wheels or buy a new wheelset. Much more 'spensive, no?

Two problems the nashbar rims were no longer listed on here sight last i checked and even if you got some 27 inch rims chances are they would have a diferent erd which would mean you'd have to get different spokes and relace in anyway. In other words if your gonna make the swap you might as well go 700c

Okay, good to know. So, hmmm. What's erd? External rim diameter? Thing is, my other bikes, which are all younger, have 27" wheels. Seems it'd just be easier (in terms of tires and innertubes) to swap with 27" alloys. And plus, 27" tires, though limited in variety, sure are cheaper. Why's everyone encouraging me to switch over to 700cs?

My Grand Prix was also made in Holland and the serial # is on the bottom bracket. My serial # is 2758032 and the BB spindle has '71 stamped on it. So we guess it is a '72 or earlier. Gonna make a rider out of it. Cost is to great to restore it.

because then you can slide on over to the dark side and
start riding Tubulars.
that and 27inch rims and tires are becoming kind of scarce (thats my guess, I ride
sewups almost exclusively).

Marty

My serial #, just found it, is on the seat tube, to the drivetrain side and below the seat stays. It says, GN4076. There's nothing on the bottom of the BB. Actually, the sticker says, "Manufactured under licence, by Gazelle." I'll have to do a little cleaning before I can see anything on the spindle. So these tires aren't tubulars? Thing is, it looks like the tires are different, but one is a Kenda, Made in Taiwan and looks fairly new, so I didn't even think that these were sew-ups...wow, new level of complexity.

Two points - Your bike is a 1974. Your bike does not have sew-ups. The size of sew-up rims is the same size as 700c clincher rims - which means that once you have the brakes set for 700c, it is a simple thing to switch to sew-ups.

Also want to add my opinion that changing to alloy rims is a wise thing. If you change to an alloy crankset you'll lighten up by another 2-3 pounds too.

That was the other reason I wanted to upgrade. You wouldn't know if it's easy to replace the spindle on this with a cotterless crank spindle, would you?

Thanks for the input, all.

1974, nice. Not too much younger than me. No wonder I like the ride so much.

I wouldn't. Never done that yet myself. I know there are plenty of others here that can help with that though.

erd is effective rim diameter it essentially is the internal diameter of the rim (ok really the diameter to the middle of the nipples or so but whatever). If you want to go with 27 inchers go for it (all my vintage rides have them) however 700c is the new standard and has been for some time therefore it is getting gradually harder and harder to find quality 27 inch tires and rims. Ebay or an Older shop is probably gonna be your best bet for new rims. The point of all this rambling is essentially that it is your choice ast to what you use, however as long as your doing the work it will be easier in the long run to update the bike to the current standard to ensure availibility of parts in the future.

I just bought a set of Campy Record hubs with Fiamme Speedy rims for $40 (and $11 shipping) on eBay. Worth keeping tabs for a while to see.

nah. get outta here. you must be rich or something. Gotta admit they're fun to go riding on, though.

It has been a long time since I looked closely at a Raleigh GP, to double check that 700c is going to work, make sure you can lower the brake pads 4 to 5mm, that is the difference in radius between a 27" rim and a 700c rim.
27" quality high pressure tires seem to be have already gone out of style, so if 700c will work, go forth.

Nottingham GP's would often have Raleigh threading, 26 threads per inch, not standard outside of the Raleigh MFG. kindom...Except Gazelle built frames could easily have English, 1.370" x 24 tpi, LH threading on fixed cup side of course. so test, compare upon removal of the adjustable cup to a known English threaded unit. Even if it has the "odd ball" threading all is not lost, a tapered spindle with the correct spacing and other dimensions could be used, we did it 30 years ago but finding a cooperative bike shop (or knowledgable one today) could be a problem.

be seeing you

I put a set of Weinmann 700s on a '71 GP I had earlier this year; they'll work fine, just set the brake pads all the way down in the calipers. I also installed a newer Sugino BB and crankset with no problems -- this bike had the 1.370 x 24 threads. With the lighter wheels and crank, the bike came in at 23 pounds and was a really pleasant ride.

I don't believe there were ever any 'Nottingham' Grand Prix as such; the English ones were built at Worksop.