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Allegro with "Character"

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Allegro with "Character"

Old 01-09-21, 08:32 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by obrentharris View Post
Progress!



I can't figure out those Weinmann brake levers. I wonder if someone straightened them out at some point. I have fairly long fingers but have a heck of a time reaching those levers from the drops. I shall attempt a little bending to make them more like the ones on the bike in the photos above by retyred.

Brent
Those levers aren't right. Looks like they were made for straight bars or something. The correct levers will look like this:

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Old 01-09-21, 11:18 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by obuckler View Post
it is an arm to arch bolt with the nut, sleeve and red things. May be wrong size of course since it’s a different model. ​​​​​



Perfect!
PM on its way.
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Old 01-10-21, 12:56 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by obuckler View Post
its amazing what you can learn snooping around this forum. This is my binder bolt from a 71 Lygie. I thought it was a kluge from the hardware store. Now I thinking not. Is this a Nikrom setup?

(ignore the Saran Wrap on the bike. It all wrapped up waiting for a good clear coat painting day.)






-----
[/QUOTE]

That is a well done from scratch out of standard hex stock example.
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Old 01-10-21, 03:57 PM
  #54  
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Hello, new guy here

Hi guys, new to the forum here but my interest in and new acquisition of an Allegro have prompted to join the conversation.
obrentharris—that bike is A bueauty, congratulations!! All of your knowledge on these older bikes is awesome. I’m primarily an 80’s-90’s steel lover but I have a soft spot for the Allegro.
At 12 yes old I started riding a hand me down Allegro, that came from my uncle, to dad, then me.
My uncle was a local racer in So-cal L.A. area in the 60’s.
Anyway, the ol’ Allegro was my first road bike and cast a lifelong passion for bicycles that is now pretty well set.
Yesterday I acquired, what appears to be, an all original Allegro Special.
Some details: S#154188, Gran Sport ft & rr drlrs, seat post is shimmed steel with original Brooks seat, Campy high flange hubs with 58 on rr cone, 59 on front, Weinmann 999 center pulls & levers, Philipe stem & bars, steel no name headset, Weinmann tubulars. Stronglight mod 57cranks. Oh, and all the cable ends with set screws are there. Lol....which is probably foreshadowing some handwringing on my part.
This bike is pretty crusty. It will be fun to juice up and get running.
One quick question—does the drive side cup come out of the frame? I don’t remember ever taking it out on mine those many years ago.
I look forward to your comments, opinions & advice.
Thanks J
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Old 01-10-21, 04:24 PM
  #55  
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Yeah....I tried to add a photo😕
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Old 01-10-21, 06:17 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by JBCIII View Post
Yeah....I tried to add a photo😕
Congratulations on what sounds like a really nice bike, very similar to mine. Yes the fixed cup comes out. On mine I believe it was French threaded, right hand thread. I assume that yours has the original Stronglight bottom bracket. According to my second edition Sutherland's manual a French threaded fixed cup will have one ring cast into the face and 8 sides. A Swiss cup will have no rings and eight sides.

Please post a photo when you can. You will be able to post photos when you have 10 posts. This is an anti-spam measure.
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Old 01-10-21, 07:48 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by unworthy1 View Post
...I agree those levers look to have been straightened, maybe you can form them back to usably curved shape over a large OD pipe with a mallet. The aluminum is fairly soft & malleable.
That worked great!
My large OD pipe was the body of a grease gun. Instead of the rubber mallet I used a length of copper pipe slid over the end of the lever. That allowed me a bit of control over where the new bend would go.




Much Better.




Brent
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Old 01-11-21, 09:17 AM
  #58  
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Well done. Looking at those levers in your before photo’s—could they have been originally fitted with the additional lever that provided braking from the tops of the handlebars? Perhaps removed at some point and fitted with single lever pivot studs? Might explain how far out they settled.
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Old 01-11-21, 09:19 AM
  #59  
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obrentharris thanks for the bottom bracket info.
i presume the Stronglight 57 cranks require a French threaded tool to remove. I’ll have to get one.
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Old 01-11-21, 09:28 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by JBCIII View Post
Well done. Looking at those levers in your before photo’s—could they have been originally fitted with the additional lever that provided braking from the tops of the handlebars? Perhaps removed at some point and fitted with single lever pivot studs? Might explain how far out they settled.
I didn't think of that. That would certainly explain it.
Originally Posted by JBCIII View Post
obrentharris thanks for the bottom bracket info.
i presume the Stronglight 57 cranks require a French threaded tool to remove. I’ll have to get one.
Yes, you will need a Stronglight specific puller. Note the TA puller is sized differently.
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Old 01-12-21, 12:34 PM
  #61  
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obrentharris now that you’ve had some rides on the bike, how do you like the performance of the bar end shifters? As has been noted, I remember them ghost shifting and driving me nuts. My original old bike had a record front drlr and my impression was it worked fine. Never used a GS which the latest bike has.
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Old 01-12-21, 12:35 PM
  #62  
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Ok I think I can post pic’s now.
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Old 01-12-21, 11:55 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by obrentharris View Post
I didn't think of that. That would certainly explain it.

Yes, you will need a Stronglight specific puller. Note the TA puller is sized differently.
Brent
Brent: Be careful with the crank puller. Yes, the Stronglight threading has an oh-so-slightly different diameter from that of TA cranks. The trouble is, Stronglight sometimes used the TA standard. I read this somewhere (can't recall where; maybe on BF) and thought "pish-posh, that can't be right; even the French aren't that idiosyncratic."

Ah, but they are. I went to remove my brother-in-law's Stronglight 93 crankset from his early to mid 1970s Gitane TdF. Even though the tool for Stronglights screwed right in, I decided to be extra-careful because of what I had read. Thank God I did, because the threads started to strip with the tool for Stronglights but I was able to stop before I did anything irretrievable. I gingerly tried the tool for TAs. It worked. The crisis was averted. My bemusement with all things French, however, continues even unto this day.

If there is a way to tell which Stronglights actually use the TA standard, I certainly have no clue what it is. Just be aware that not only did the French not use anyone else's threading standards, they didn't even always use their own.

P.S. I still have both tools if you need to borrow one or both.
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Old 01-13-21, 02:35 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by bikingshearer View Post
Brent: Be careful with the crank puller. Yes, the Stronglight threading has an oh-so-slightly different diameter from that of TA cranks. The trouble is, Stronglight sometimes used the TA standard. I read this somewhere (can't recall where; maybe on BF) and thought "pish-posh, that can't be right; even the French aren't that idiosyncratic."

Ah, but they are. I went to remove my brother-in-law's Stronglight 93 crankset from his early to mid 1970s Gitane TdF. Even though the tool for Stronglights screwed right in, I decided to be extra-careful because of what I had read. Thank God I did, because the threads started to strip with the tool for Stronglights but I was able to stop before I did anything irretrievable. I gingerly tried the tool for TAs. It worked. The crisis was averted. My bemusement with all things French, however, continues even unto this day.

If there is a way to tell which Stronglights actually use the TA standard, I certainly have no clue what it is. Just be aware that not only did the French not use anyone else's threading standards, they didn't even always use their own.

P.S. I still have both tools if you need to borrow one or both.

Great thoughts and insights, many of either of these that I have encountered have always seemed to have been compromised by the wrong tool or possible poor practice somewhere along the way, especially this far down the line.

They seem to often be victims of the too close to call if you don't know better for many. If the threads are dirty, corroded, gacked by wrong puller or poor usage, it often goes from bad to worse.

I always take a very close hard look at all threads before I pull an arm off and usually do a through cleaning if not a thread by thread, mm by mm chasing by right angle pick to be sure they are viable and that the tool can be installed properly and completely for removal with no damage whatsoever.
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Old 01-13-21, 09:23 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by bikingshearer View Post

...If there is a way to tell which Stronglights actually use the TA standard, I certainly have no clue what it is. Just be aware that not only did the French not use anyone else's threading standards, they didn't even always use their own.
Thanks!
Perhaps @juvela or @non-fixie can help us out here.

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Old 01-13-21, 10:43 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by obrentharris View Post
Thanks!
Perhaps @juvela or @non-fixie can help us out here.

Brent
TA uses 23mm and Stronglight 23.35mm. I am not aware of them having used each other's standards. But I haven't tried them all. Yet.

What I can imagine is that someone has forced a Stronglight puller into a TA crank, after which a TA puller would be loose and possibly strip the threads.
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Old 01-13-21, 10:01 PM
  #67  
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I only encountered this one time, but it was so significant it stuck in my mind. I have owned a genuine Stronglight crank puller since about 1974, it has the brand and I used it half a dozen times until one day I was pulling a SL crank off some recently acquired frame and found the SL puller did not fit. I tried many times to thread it in and was extra-extra careful not to cross thread but there was no fitting it. Then out of desperation I tried a TA puller (also a tool I had used often before, but only on TA cranks). It fit! I unscrewed it and tried both again several times to make sure I did not hallucinate something but the TA was a "class A" fit on the Stronglight crank and the SL was "no-go", period. So when I put it to the stress-test that TA pulled the SL crank off without a hitch, no threads damaged or even complaining. Make of that what you will, I came away thinking things aren't always as they "should be".
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Old 01-14-21, 02:44 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
The cable ends are cool as heck, the 58 Paramount has 2, I put them on the brakes.
Presumably many have received the latest message from Velo Orange showing their analogue: Cherries

However, I could get a lot of one-use cable ends for what one pair would cost.
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Old 01-14-21, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by tiger1964 View Post
Presumably many have received the latest message from Velo Orange showing their analogue: Cherries

However, I could get a lot of one-use cable ends for what one pair would cost.
I always try to keep my opinions to myself, but I'm having a hard time with these.
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