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Great thread.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...efd694d1c1.jpg Mid 60's with light blue 531 decal https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0c79bf6132.jpg Tired seat! There has been some prior discussion about the type of stem used on PX-10's and whether or not the type used would determine PX-10 or another model. Both of mine have different stems and lugs. I am the original purchaser of one and bought the other from the original owner. PX's were not the cleanest in terms of their attention to detail (lug work) and the use of the less than magical Dupont Delrin used in their Simplex derailleurs (front and rear), mine is sporting a Campagnolo front now. All that aside in my mind they deserved the status in terms of ride quality that some of the more expensive Marques enjoy. And this thread by 3alarmer is long overdue....perhaps a sticky like the IRONMAN. I will post pics of my all original 60's later, in the meantime, the few I have uploaded will need to suffice. Following from Velo Pages: https://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?g2_itemId=28218 https://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?g2_itemId=28221 https://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?...geViewsIndex=1 From BF: https://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?...geViewsIndex=1 From BikeBoom Peugeot: https://www.bikeboompeugeot.com/Fram...0Evolution.htm Best, Ben 3alarmer miamijim |
Originally Posted by rustystrings61
(Post 21884751)
...5. c.1972 (and ONLY in 1972, I think) Peugeot built the PX-10 using plain Nervex DuBois lugs, rather than the curly Professional model. The head lugs are still painted black, and the more relaxed frame geometry remains... Can anyone enlighten me? (Not about frame geometry in general--that would take a long time--but about the dating of my frame and its steepness or relaxedess.) |
Catalogs Online
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Here's the catalog page for the PXN-10 shown above ^^^
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Here’s my 72 is nearly all original form. Plastic bits still going strong nearly 50 years later. I only ride it a few times a year so not too worried about “death stem”. If I used it as a regular rider I’d change some parts.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...44a53043d.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1d06979d0.jpeg |
Originally Posted by Bogester
(Post 22193923)
Here’s my 72 is nearly all original form. Plastic bits still going strong nearly 50 years later. I only ride it a few times a year so not too worried about “death stem”. If I used it as a regular rider I’d change some parts.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...44a53043d.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...10fb5a3ad1.jpg still got the delrin and the death stem too ! All works well on the rare occasion it gets an outing . |
Recently Completed Project Bike
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...of note are the Campy NR derailleurs, and the Simplex retro-friction shifters. New re-laced wheels, on Campagnolo hubs, but they could as easily be the original Normandy Competitions, which are pretty nice hubs. I might have some lying around, and might build out some alternative wheels for this. Lively, light and compact in handling. Early 80's , or maybe '79 ? https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...364e2550ef.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9c918844e2.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e4e3d6dc2f.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8a04a5149e.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e2e8008ddd.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d85afd0441.jpg |
Additional testament to the versatility of the PX-10..... 650B conversion with 42c tires (V-O rims & hubs), Raid brakes, SLJ derailleurs & Retrofriction shifters, Red Clover triplizer. Slightly too small for me- hoping someday to come into a blue, '72 frame that's a couple CMs bigger that I can move everything over to. Ridden (almost) daily on all manner of surfaces....
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ed065ccd9e.jpg |
Why did this thread eventually taper off? It was a good idea…
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Originally Posted by JackJohn
(Post 22618135)
Why did this thread eventually taper off? It was a good idea…
...I just never made it as a social influencer. I have only 1 3/4 followers. :( |
Well, I’m now custodian of the setup that Jon V built from the frame from Noah Scape. It joins the 1971 that belonged to my cycling mentor 50 years ago. I recently threw some parts at it to make it roadworthy. I had un-built it maybe 6 or 7 years ago because, reasons. It’s probably going to get refined but it’s ok for now. The 72 is my size, the 71 decidedly not.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...819cfe85b.jpeg 1972 https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...24f83c712.jpeg 1971 When I received the 71 some 10 years ago I tried to pull the cranks with the wrong extractor and munged the threading; ended up using a gear puller. I found another set and put the damaged arms in the bin. I took them out this weekend to practice using my new pedal taps. I decided to thread the proper extractor on them and with a bit of effort and lubrication, it threaded on and the second time in the tool ran smoothly. I don’t really need to use them but I wonder if they’re good enough to work now? |
So much good information in here! :thumb:
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
(Post 22225653)
.
...of note are the Campy NR derailleurs, and the Simplex retro-friction shifters. New re-laced wheels, on Campagnolo hubs, but they could as easily be the original Normandy Competitions, which are pretty nice hubs. I might have some lying around, and might build out some alternative wheels for this. Lively, light and compact in handling. Early 80's , or maybe '79 ? https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...364e2550ef.jpg I just picked up an ‘82 or so 531 Super Competition locally! Light Blue with chrome forks, Campy hubs, Cinelli stem, bars, etc. I’ll post it up in the day time. |
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c2d4e3369.jpeg
I’ll take some better ones |
Originally Posted by ascherer
(Post 22618485)
When I received the 71 some 10 years ago I tried to pull the cranks with the wrong extractor and munged the threading; ended up using a gear puller. I found another set and put the damaged arms in the bin. I took them out this weekend to practice using my new pedal taps. I decided to thread the proper extractor on them and with a bit of effort and lubrication, it threaded on and the second time in the tool ran smoothly. I don’t really need to use them but I wonder if they’re good enough to work now? ...hard to say if there's enough meat left to the threads, to work to pull them off a crank again. But the oversized puller that is sold by Stein, for rethreading the pulling threads will work, even if you strip them out while installed on a bike. The biggest problem with these are that they are kind of expensive. I bought one, because there were a lot of relatively nice cranks that were getting tossed when I worked at the co-op, because some of the clientele were not real sophisticated at mechaniking. You can't watch everyone working in there at the same time closely enough to prevent misadventures. Also, when a crank has been mounted long enough and tight enough, it's hard to pull it reliably without some torch heating. And nobody wanted people using a Mapp gas torch in that old building. Anyway, it's a quality tool, and if you can find the inserts that come with it for sale, you can repair a damaged crank to accept a standard puller. |
Who-all has a cork in their seat tube below the seatpost?
If you don't know if your PX has a cork, you might want to check. I was given an otherwise OK frame, late '60s or maybe 1970, with the seat tube completely rusted through, where there was a little puddle inside left over from riding in the rain. I posted a pic in another thread the other day, cuz it did happen. ;)
It's actually better to let that water drain down to the bottom bracket IMHO — at least nothing down there is thin-wall enough for rust to make it all the way through to daylight! (But adding a drain hole at the bottom of the BB shell would be wise too, if you actually ride it, unless you're a committed originalist, or live in a hot desert.) Aside from the PSA or 'cautionary tale' aspect of this posting, I'd like this to be a poll or census of sorts. Can we get some info on how many of them had corks and what years? I've heard from a pretty good number of people so far that found one somewhere in the seat tube, sometimes down by the BB, other times just below the seatpost. So I'm pretty sure it was done at the factory, not by a DAPO ("previous owner"). Getting the cork out (if you find one and want it out) can be tricky, but I can show you how I did it, if yours doesn't come right out. Mark B |
Originally Posted by bulgie
(Post 22618560)
If you don't know if your PX has a cork, you might want to check. I was given an otherwise OK frame, late '60s or maybe 1970, with the seat tube completely rusted through, where there was a little puddle inside left over from riding in the rain. I posted a pic in another thread the other day, cuz it did happen. ;)
It's actually better to let that water drain down to the bottom bracket IMHO — at least nothing down there is thin-wall enough for rust to make it all the way through to daylight! (But adding a drain hole at the bottom of the BB shell would be wise too, if you actually ride it, unless you're a committed originalist, or live in a hot desert.) Aside from the PSA or 'cautionary tale' aspect of this posting, I'd like this to be a poll or census of sorts. Can we get some info on how many of them had corks and what years? I've heard from a pretty good number of people so far that found one somewhere in the seat tube, sometimes down by the BB, other times just below the seatpost. So I'm pretty sure it was done at the factory, not by a DAPO ("previous owner"). Getting the cork out (if you find one and want it out) can be tricky, but I can show you how I did it, if yours doesn't come right out. Mark B |
I'd like to post some pics of my black PX10LE but can't post pictures until i've made 10 posts (i can't access my old log in because my email is defunct). I'll be back...
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Just stumbled upon this thread and it is too good to pass up.
Right now I have two of these cycles in the garage. First is a '67 or '68 PX-10 I acquired from a co-op about 4 years ago. I completely rebuilt it, and then commuted on it. Here it was as found - https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...09776a8273.jpg Seems as though many of these bikes have a cheaper, non-original wheelset, that folks use to replace or get rid of the tubular wheelset they came with, which is unfortunate. I don't have any good pictures of the bike as it sits right now, but it was taken apart and rebuilt, with a few modern components. I decided to commute with it, and made some changes that I now I don't think I would have (drilling out the brake holes) - it was my first foray into vintage bicycles, and I've grown since then. Still, some modern touches have proved extremely useful. When I read up on the plastic Simplex stuff, I must have gotten scared, and the front derailleur was also toast, so I removed it completely and then replaced the rear with a claw and a 105. Honestly, I wouldn't change a thing. I know how it looks, but the shifts are so 'on' and match the tactile vintage feel of the bike, it is bliss. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...00987f4ae3.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...157f49282c.jpg More recently, this past December, I stumbled on to this one, an '81 PXN-10, which has been slightly refurbished: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...61af889122.jpg Probably one of the more beautiful bikes I've seen in person. I haven't refurbed it all the way yet...I got to the rear axle and got stopped cold by the need for a French freewheel tool, which costs about half of what the bike cost. Still, I love the French bikes, so I'll bite the bullet. This one doesn't ride as spritely as my PX-10, but I'm wondering how much of that is in the tires. On the small end for me...I'm still trying to decide if I can make it work. |
My '72, built up as an 'in spirit' bike with some lesser comps:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...43a294c62a.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...820e67c6cd.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...155b17d104.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...14c0771f98.jpg Top |
Originally Posted by AdventureManCO
(Post 22792924)
Seems as though many of these bikes have a cheaper, non-original wheelset, that folks use to replace or get rid of the tubular wheelset they came with, which is unfortunate.
Originally Posted by AdventureManCO
(Post 22792924)
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...61af889122.jpg
Probably one of the more beautiful bikes I've seen in person. |
Originally Posted by top506
(Post 22793026)
My '72, built up as an 'in spirit' bike with some lesser comps:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...43a294c62a.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...820e67c6cd.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...155b17d104.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...14c0771f98.jpg Top Several of these photos make a pretty strong argument for fenders...... |
Originally Posted by daka
(Post 22793286)
Several of these photos make a pretty strong argument for fenders......
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Originally Posted by AdventureManCO
(Post 22792924)
Just stumbled upon this thread and it is too good to pass up.
Seems as though many of these bikes have a cheaper, non-original wheelset, that folks use to replace or get rid of the tubular wheelset they came with, which is unfortunate. . But I wouldn't necessarily define cheap wheelsets on some who've set their bike up with contemporary and improved metallurgy, spokes, rim design or went with 650b. Those earlier PX10 frames offer versatility. My guess is most despise tubulars and even more so the galvanized spokes. If in great condition, I much prefer the original look and appreciate their longevity. Watching ebay and rarely are true original and with the original race tubulars. Though it happens and these two from 1972 look very impressive. The first one here is beautiful original but goofy with the cheap blue clinchers, described as installed by a shop (why, why, why??) though seller shows its original tubular set is included. The second one is also beautiful, though has a changed out rear derailleur and cables. Great example if seeking original. |
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