Last month I picked up a decent '84 Miyata 210 on my local Craigslist. Unfortunately it was not functional when I bought it as to give it a ride, but I spent a month getting it into good shape: new cables, housing, chain, brake pads, tape, and hoods. I also broke it to pieces and regreased all the bearings then polished the components with a Dremel. I was really happy with it!


On my test ride I had to admit to myself it's just too small. I'm 5'8", and I took a gamble on a 52cm. I think I really need a 54cm.


All that said, it seems like I could just buy a 54cm frame and shift everything over - maybe even reusing the same cables. Is there anything I'm overlooking?


On quick look, eBay has a '85 210 posted right now with nice paint (however it looks like a different brake typology). I'm not sure what other factors I should be considering for compatibility.


I appreciate any advice. Thanks folks.

You should be able to move everything to a bigger frame, provided that it was made within 4 or five years of your old one. Seat post diameters may be different.
You may have to replace some cables with longer ones on the big frame.
If you do not have bike specific tools, you will need some, like a crank puller, cable cutter, coning wrenches, etc.
I have made such swaps many times, but usually on mountain bikes.

If 52cm is really too small than 54cm will be better, but it might still not be ideal. I consider 61cm to be my minimum frame size, but prefer the 62-64cm range. Just a thought.

You mentioned brake differences. The Miyata 210 that I had featured cantilever brakes...


But some 210s are just side or center pull calipers.

Side pull style...


Center pull...


The cantilevers are, by far, the most effective.

I would suggest going to a shop and just try bikes for standover size. I would be hesitant to buy until certain about size. Coops and used/new brick and mortars are my favored haunts. They may be able to swap at a minimum expense if you are a DiY type.

Thanks for the comments, folks. It's all helpful info. Take care.

I do this kind of thing all the time..........sell the one you have.....you doubled the value of that bike by overhauling it.......buy the new one and overhaul it if it needs it....it might not need it......if you stick to your plan you will end up with one trashed bike that you cant sell and just repaired...and spent twice as much and twice the work for one good bike

I’m likely to never be called a purist when it comes to having a properly sized bike frame . I consider myself to be 5’8” (but may be “shrinking” some as I age). I too, have a Miyata Two-Ten with the 52cm frame. Most frame fitting formulae will indicate that a 52cm / 21” (not equivalent but close enough) frame is too small for a 5’8” (~173cm) individual. I can’t argue with the calculations but by using a longer seat post (to maintain a safe insertion depth) and having the stem at the “max” line, I find that I can achieve a very comfortable riding position with the Miyata! I’ve done this with a few bikes that most would say are too small for my stated height. Achieving a comfortable fit with a frame that is too large is more problematic as seat posts and stems can only be inserted so far!

Whoa - this is an idea I didn't consider. Not getting a longer leg extension was my real problem. I'm going to consider this. Thanks.

I'm 5' 8" and inseam 'challenged' and really never clear a horizontal top tube bar. Insult to injury, my size 11 shoes will overlap most front wheels.
Still, it's has never stopped me from riding how I like and loving it.

The problem with the basic “X body height = Y frame size” is that leg length (inseam) is NOT a fixed proportion of an individual’s height! Two people can be of the same height but have markedly different biometrics! Several measurements are taken when getting a “professional” bike fitting. I think the most critical are leg length and arm length. Frame size is but one variable in the equation for a suitable “fit”. Seat post length, stem height and extension as well as saddle rail length, all allow for a great deal of adjustment. Of those variables, the frame is likely to be the most expensive and involve the most work to swap out. As has been mentioned, a larger frame may also require longer control cables and housings (adding cost and extra work). Getting a different frame would be the very last thing that I would consider doing and that would happen only if the components were the best of the best! As also mentioned, selling the ill-fitting bike and buying a different one may be a reasonable thing to do. I’ve done that only a couple of times.