I propose [MENTION=236255]janheine[/MENTION] to do a double blind test. I can envision the BQ headline now: "Thru-axles: Do They Offer an Advantage?"
I'm prepared to believe they make suspension MTBs and motorcycles E-bikes work better. But for anything without suspension, I won't believe anything less than the most rigorous science about this.

I mean, as a publicity device, they sure have gotten prime TDF airtime - for all the wrong reasons! But even bad publicity is still publicity, amiright?

I don't want track ends, ever. I want traditional "horizontal" forward opening road dropouts.


(They're not actually horizontal; they come close to perpendicular to the seatstay so moving the hub has little effect on brake pad position). The dropouts bikes used most of a century, the first 50 or so Tour de France were won on, what all bikes had until ~1975. They work well with fenders. (Yeah, they interfere with the classy NW "perfect wrap" but work very well with clips on the chainstay bridge (that also allow removal with said dropouts nicely.) Sweet with fix gears for road use. (Now I have more serious, modified horizontal dropouts; as long as track ends, angled ~11 degrees/compromise between brake pads and BB height changes over big hub movement, and an "L" shaped opening, turning right angles down in front. Like on my logo.)

With adjusting screws, it is n not much harder to do wheel changes fast than with vertical dropouts. Yes, you have to tighten the QR or hub nuts. I know, it's tough. But you get a bike you can change your mind on. I spec'd them on the Mooney for that reason only. Rode 38 years never needing them. Then was presented with a Cycle Oregon route that would be perfect for a fix gear that could handle big tires. The Mooney can! Did it and - this is what that compromise frame designed to do anything; club ride, tour, high mountains, off road ... could do really well! Like this is what that frame was designed to do.

I saw that horizontal dropouts (at least "medium" ones like the one I show) are still made. That one probably allows a 3 tooth cog range as a fix gear with the chainlength dialed in perfectly. My late '70s Campy drops on the Mooney are longer. 4 or 5 teeth. The still longer Campy's of the '60s I would die for. (Well, my dropouts cut from 1/4" plate with the even longer slot and "L" are even better so I'll probably pass on those nice forged ones if I do this again. But mine in forged? I can dream.)

Just checked at Nova Cycles, they still have Columbus dropouts. They're not as long as Campy 1010's, but they're under $20 a set, and they're forged.

Ceeway has long ones - no derailleur hanger, oddly enough, but have torch, can modify...

If you're ready to die for Campy's, well, you don't have to, but eBay sellers have them for a price.

[MENTION=381793]gugie[/MENTION] Where do you like to get your tubing for racks? I looked on Framebuilders Supply and didn't see anything like that there. I'd like to try my hand at some custom rack building as a way to dip my toe in the brazing waters.

Some get it from Aircraft Spruce (Alex Wetmore), some get it from McMaster-Carr (they don't give shipping quotes unless you call), and some get it from Ebay (usually cannot get chromoly steel). I'd shop around for the best price. But I'd be equally interested in where Gugie gets it!

If you google Alex Wetmore he has a great blog about the basics of rack building. It's getting a little old now but still full of great info. Also, get a decent bender. I recently just bought a Rigid 400 series bender for 5/16 tubing. About to order some tubing and start. I need to finish the frame first.

You covered it! Mostly I order from McMaster-Carr because they make it so easy to order. If I want to stock up, Aircraft Spruce prices are a bit better. For odd sizes, eBay (6mm tubing, don't ask why...)

1/4" and 5/16", thinnest wall available (0.028" typically). If you're starting out, maybe start with the larger diameter. You'll probably want a way to bend tubing, for tight bends I use the cheapest Harbor Freight bender. A good file set is pretty critical, especially for mitering joints.

Another thumbs up for Alex Wetmore's site. I read that over and over when I was starting up.