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Paramount build
I finally got to work on the Paramount frame that Francophile said I could keep after it followed me home from the beauty shop. It has had a fresh coat of powder-coat in a baby blue color with some sparkle in it, and I have begun to make it into a bike again.
here are a few pics of the first steps: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...70202b680e.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...01bfda7797.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...dc24475fdb.jpg I went through the process of cleaning all of the threads including the small bits like the adjuster bolts on the rear drop outs. Same treatment for all of the frame add-ons like the bottle bosses and the bottom bracket. The steering tube needed some work for the threads on the head set and I pressed in the headset parts. After the cleaning of the threads on the shift lever bosses and removing the PC from the bosses I mounted the shift levers. It is nice to get to this point. Tomorrow I will add the BB parts and crank arms. The derailleurs will be next. Decision for wheels is still in the air, tubulars or clinchers? Smiles, MH |
Looking very, very sharp. Opaque Blue for a 1990's-era Paramount? Me likey.
-Kurt |
MH,
I agree with Kurt, one of my favorite colors along with mint green....going Campy with the "boat anchor"?? :innocent: Best, Ben |
What are you building it with? What group?
JJ |
Originally Posted by Mad Honk
(Post 21945733)
here are a few pics of the first steps:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...70202b680e.jpg I went through the process of cleaning all of the threads....... MH But, gee, I can solder and test diodes and recite ohms law n stuff. Please keep the photos and news coming. |
Ok Folks,
My day job got in the way of this build today. The weather got a bit better and the golfers are coming out of the woodwork, and today was no different. One PGA pro and one hacker, but they are paying the bike bills so I did the day job today. I have located the drop out adjuster screws in Stainless steel and will put the other parts on tonight. Pics coming soon. Honk |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 21945844)
Looking very, very sharp. Opaque Blue for a 1990's-era Paramount? Me likey.
-Kurt |
Pastor Bob,
It is a 51st anniversary model (1989), but the only decal set was for the 50th and it was the same set for both years. And Kurt doesn't like it enough to trade me that front clip for it! So I got to work on it tonight after the day job. I sourced the Stainless bolts for the drop outs and installed them. I use a waterproof grease for the threads to keep the screws working correctly. a couple of pics: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6b195a6b9d.jpg I source these bolts from Fastenal by the bag of 100. Using two per bike they don't really last that long, but if someone needs a couple they need to PM me. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d2b513e092.jpg I use the Dualco grease guns for a lot of this as the needle tips makes applying the grease really effective. Grease is waterproof. |
Along with the drop outs I was able to get the correct BB put in and add the crank arms. Clearance is about 3/16ths inch on the chain stays for the rings and 1/4 " on the q for the chain stays. Pics of the crank install, I use an electric battery powered impact gun set to a normal torque for crank bolts. I'm kinda lazy about this, but it sure is a lot faster for the work. I use the same for disassembly, I am not a fan of a lot of hard work.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...087cf2b1d4.jpg Me being lazy and using an impact gun for the install. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c48e70744a.jpg Same for the non-drive side less than a minute to complete the job. |
And lastly I added the front and rear derailleurs for this one. Here are the pictures of those installed. Again all threads were covered in waterproof grease to prevent damage and make repairs easier. All of the parts installed so far have gone through a complete refurbishing and addition of newer parts that will be rider friendly, like the sealed bearing jockey pulleys.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...59d13be283.jpg refurbished rear derailleur with new sealed bearing jockey pulleys, and the new drop out adjusters https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6239d147d2.jpg Front derailleur and installed crank arm. Clearance of the derailleur is 1/8" above outer ring. An aside to Ben; You are correct I did go to the parts stash and it took three bottom brackets to get the Q line right. A lot of the parts like the crank arms were source previously through the 'Bay but they are period correct and will be fine for this rider quality bike. Still need to figure out the rims and tires. I have GP-4s for tubulars, and black anodized Weinmann LP18 19c rims for clinchers. And it looks like I won't be able to find clinchers in anything less than 25c. If I go the 28* route I have Matrix ISO-C rims and Campy high flange hubs, and I have 18 c Vitoria tires to go on them. The choices.... Smiles, MH |
Jhabbs,
I have pieced together bits and parts for this thinking about it being a rider and not a museum bike. Mostly super record but generation 1. It will get Cinelli bars and stem. The treatment is still in the air for tape. Smiles, MH |
MH,
Red Jockey wheels will make it go faster.....and if they get out on the Boat Anchor....well you know the rest of the story. :innocent: Following the build to see what else you pull out of the archives. Best, Ben |
The Blair Witch photography style is especially enticing. ;)
More seriously (and constructively...lol), light blue, SR, polished silver, and dark anodized rims are gonna be a HOT combo on that Paramount. Can't wait to see it come to completion! [I find myself saying more and more lately that although I do like a good red, that man, I like a lot of blues and they help make many a beautiful bike. :) ] |
Originally Posted by Mad Honk
(Post 21947646)
Pastor Bob,
It is a 51st anniversary model (1989), but the only decal set was for the 50th and it was the same set for both years. And Kurt doesn't like it enough to trade me that front clip for it! -Kurt |
Originally Posted by xiaoman1
(Post 21947710)
MH,
Red Jockey wheels will make it go faster.....and if they get out on the Boat Anchor....well you know the rest of the story. :innocent: Following the build to see what else you pull out of the archives. Best, Ben I have always been told that the red ones go faster! Har. MH https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8178997371.jpg |
Riddle of Steel,
The Blair Witch treatment seems to be the result of a junk camera that changes it's mind during use. My non-intentional tremors don't help much either. As much as I would like to I can see buying and I-phone to take pictures. In fact the I-stuff has been problematic for me. My wife turned into the War Department when I bought her an I-ron.* Smiles, MH * everything now goes to the cleaners for pressing etc. |
Originally Posted by Mad Honk
(Post 21949317)
Riddle of Steel,
The Blair Witch treatment seems to be the result of a junk camera that changes it's mind during use. My non-intentional tremors don't help much either. As much as I would like to I can see buying and I-phone to take pictures. In fact the I-stuff has been problematic for me. My wife turned into the War Department when I bought her an I-ron.* Smiles, MH * everything now goes to the cleaners for pressing etc. I look forward to really any photo of that Paramount, especially when it's fully built. :thumb: |
Finally getting back to this build. The spring rush for golf kept me away for a while doing the work that pays the bills. But I have made a decision about the wheels. I found a pair of non damaged MA40's at the co-op that were were built for training bikes for the little five hundred for women. No nicks or rim damage so they have won the rim position for this build. I had to go to the part stash and pick out hubs and they are Record low flange that have been refurbished and are ready for the build. I went to my go to parts source for spokes (Cycles 365) and they tried to scare me into next week when I found that almost all DT spokes were out of stock! I found two boxes of the right size for the rear wheel and I will have to re-calculate for the front wheel and hope to find the right sizes for that build. If I can get clearance for 25c wide tires I will put some Conti Grand Prix 4 tires on the build. If not, it looks like I will have to break into the stash of Vitoria kevlar 19c's. So it will have that look that Riddle of Steel thinks will "pop".
I will put on a set of 64/40 Cinelli bars on a 1A stem. The bar tape treatment will be like I did for the RAAM bikes. One wrap of white foam tape with a mesh of the skiving so it is seamless and then the overwrap with white Benotto for the final outer wrap. The brakes have been reconditioned and the SR will be correct for the build. I am leaning toward white cables and a white Turbo saddle to complete the look for this build. An interesting aside is that the SR seat post had been Heli-coiled and to repair it to functional I was able to use a stainless hex head bolt. It will not be Campy correct but much more functional. When I can get my junk camera I will post pictures and continue the Blair Witch photos for your entertainment. Ben since I am using the rims from a little five practice bike I think your "Mooch" jersey should be proudly posted in this thread. Smiles, MH |
Neat project. That's tight clearance if you can't mount 25c tires.
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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...26884b13f0.jpg
Ask and you shall receive Mad Honk Mooch. Great Build going on.... Best, Ben BTW Blair Witch is back on Netflix if you need more inspiration! :innocent: |
Hi Folks!
I am back at this thread finally after a bit of a hold up. Wheel building had to take a back seat this past week when Dawn at Pro Kote Indy called to let me know that my 1884 Trek 670 was finished and ready to be picked up. A four hour tour and my wallet being a bit lighter got the frame back home for it's new journey to an unsuspecting victim on BF. The week end was held back due to the War Department's insistence that yard work be done concerning flower beds. A trip to the compost place and picked up a yard of compost so she can till the stuff in to her heart's content. So now back to the build and some pictures. I will add photo's when I can get them uploaded to the computer. Smiles, Honk |
Ok,
Getting ready for the wheel build. Tomorrow is supposed to be rainy so likely a good day to stay in a build them up. Here are the parts, and after another session at UBI for spoke lengths, I should be all set. Smiles, MH https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...825f8b60e2.jpg Record hubs all cleaned up and ready to go. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...218fc1785c.jpg Spokes from 365 cycles and there should be enough to do both wheels. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...97ac196b49.jpg The rims acquired at the local co-op from a bunch of Little Five Hundred training wheels. These things look almost new and will need only a bit of cleaning to do the wheel build. |
Ben and All,
I got side tracked by my accountant this morning to send 1K to the IRS over the past year's income. Which bewilders me as my fiscal means have not changed, but I did the deed and am now a bit lighter in my bank account. So now I have a question for you. Do you want me do an account of the wheel build and turn it into a "How To" mini series in this thread. It should not take a lot of space and will describe my four step process to build a wheel. Let me know... Honk |
Originally Posted by Mad Honk
(Post 22064234)
Ben and All,
I got side tracked by my accountant this morning to send 1K to the IRS over the past year's income. Which bewilders me as my fiscal means have not changed, but I did the deed and am now a bit lighter in my bank account. So now I have a question for you. Do you want me do an account of the wheel build and turn it into a "How To" mini series in this thread. It should not take a lot of space and will describe my four step process to build a wheel. Let me know... Honk |
Yes, posting the wheel build would be a nice addition to the thread. More pics and info = more better, and it can be interesting seeing what little tips, tricks and preferences surface.
Looking forward to seeing this come together, a very nice color. Enjoy! |
Ok Merziac, here goes with the wheel build process I use...
There are a few preliminary steps needed before the build can start. I use the UBI (United Bicycle Institute) spoke length calculator. If you do a search for spoke length calculator it should be one of the first three to show up. It asks for a few measurements and they are pretty easy to get. Here are some pics to get past this part of the build process. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...43de6db7a5.jpg I use a metal ruler that measures in cm/mm. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...50b88dca97.jpg I read 604 for the inner rim diameter but I have to add two mm to account for the spokes seated in the SS inserts in the rim. Thus ERD is 606. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c060ce8184.jpg The calculator needs to know the center of the hub so I measure the over lock nut spacing and divide by 2. Here it is 126mm so center of hub is 63mm. This part of the calculations done later. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6c0395d266.jpg The The drive side flange to over-nut measurement. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ab31ecb1a9.jpg The non-drive side flange to over-nut measurement Ok so I have taken all of the measurements and now I can start ciphering to get the numbers to put into the spoke calculator. I know I am building with a 36 hole hub and rim so I enter that into the calculator. The hub over-nut spacing is 126mm I need to divide that by 2 to get the center of hub spacing. In this case it is 63mm. The drive side flange to over-nut distance is 44mm. Subtract the 44mm form the 63mm and you get the center of hub to flange measurement the calculator needs. here it is 19mm. From this point you put in the cross pattern and hit the calculate length button. I am building to 3X so I enter that. The calculator tells me I need 292 mm spokes for the drive side. I change the input for the non-drive side center of hub to flange. In this case it is 63mm minus 29mm so I enter 34mm and the calculator tells me I need 293.8mm spokes. I round up to 294mm and I am ready to start the build with the correct length spokes. I had to order the spokes but they are here and now I can start to demonstrate the lacing process. |
Folks... round two of Honk vs his computer for the wheel build,
I have determined the spoke lengths and I am going to lace in the first set of drive side spokes. I want to have a cosmetically "correct" looking wheel so I will build with the hub logo just above the rim logo when looking down from the top. To do this I start with one spoke and put it in the hub from outside to in. I do this because I want the drive side pulling spokes to work from the area closest to the centerline of the finished wheel. In this case the spoke is in the fifth hole from the top hole when the hub logo is centered above the rim logo. The spoke goes to the second spoke hole on the right side of valve opening in the rim. This is the first part of the step. The process is to then put 8 more spokes into the hub from the outside of the flange toward the inside of the hub in every second spoke hole on the flange. The spokes should be placed into the rim radially in every fourth spoke hole on the rim. This is the end of the first step in my build process. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1c797ed7da.jpg Hub with logo up https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ac2bafcc49.jpg Rim with log up https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...abc489a45a.jpg first spoke into the hub toward the center of the hub https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7fb8bf529d.jpg note the placement of logos on top of each other https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ec543d7a5c.jpg added eight other drive side spokes. I will post extra pics in a later addition |
Ok a break to take more pics
I showed in the last session how the wheel looked at finish. Now for the tips and tricks part of the build. At this point the spokes are not well seated into the hub so It is going to make the build easier if they are/ The process I use is to hold the hub stable and bend the spokes slightly upward to get the spokes to seat in the hub shell. I am going to show the process after explaining the second step of the build. At this point the drive side spokes are set, and it is time to load the off drive-side spokes so they pull in the proper sequence to drive the wheel. The spokes on this side will pull just behind the first spokes we installed. So we need to find the hole in the off drive-side that immediately follows the drive spoke the nine spokes go into the h form the outside to the inside every second hole in the hub. These spokes then radiate to the rim just behind the first set of spokes we placed. The pictures should make it clear as to how they go into the rim. When the nipples are installed the spokes should be seated down just like on the drive side. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b716713d96.jpg the radial pattern from step one https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...30871ceda5.jpg bending the spokes to seat into the hub-shell https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3459386913.jpg position of the non drive side spokes in the hub https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...91037db112.jpg The non-drive side spoke closest in the pic and drive side spoke leading the non-drive side spoke https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...50133b44df.jpg The way the wheel will look after lacing the non-drive spokes. The non-drive side spokes will need to be seated in as were the first stage spokes. Next segment will show the way and reasons for the methods I use |
Now comes the final steps of the wheel lacing. I place one spoke on the drive side and another opposite it through the wheel and because there are now nothing in my way to do the lacing from outside of the wheel. The lacing pattern is set and all that is left to do is place the seven additional drive side spokes in the hub and then place all nine of the NDS spokes through the wheel so the work can be done from the outside of the wheel. It makes the work go smoothly and the spokes all are set in place and lace up easily. Aside from doing this work with the stops to take pictures and tell the story, I think it has take about 40 minutes to do this part of the build. The final stage is going to be done on the truing stand and I will explain he process there as I get to it. I'm done for tonight but I think there is plenty here to digest and I think I will have to answer a few questions. Smiles, MH
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...569910cb69.jpg These tow spokes will set the wheel for it's finsh https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d4c98b523f.jpg The spokes are placed into the hub from the inside to the outside. And then laced over two and under one spoke for it's final position. The way it looks in place https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...18e4c630be.jpg both spokes in place and laced holding the wheel into position for the rest of the lacing work https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b89cb79565.jpg When the spokes are put from the inside out there are no impediments to the lacing https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1acd44dba1.jpg Same here easy-peasy lacing https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1968b7c903.jpg All spokes after will fall right into place for ease in the build process. |
Oops! It is looking like my camera did the Blair Witch thing again ! Smiles, MH
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