Slippery Saddle
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Jun 2018
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From: NW Ohio
Bikes: 1983 Univega Super Strada, 1986 Panasonic DX5000, 1984 Fuji Team 85 Univega Gran Turismo, 1984 Lotus Unique, 1987 Centurion Expert, 1987 Centurion Ironman Master,
Slippery Saddle
I have a couple saddles that are slippery and my rear end
keeps wanting to slide back and forth on them. Any treatment I can use
to help this?
keeps wanting to slide back and forth on them. Any treatment I can use
to help this?
#2
short answer: no idea.
longer answer: friction between shorts and the saddle is generally considered to be a bad thing, causing abrasion of one or both materials. The main reason for minimal friction is that the legs are moving relative to the saddle. If the legs of the shorts don't move freely relative to the saddle, then the legs of the shorts will move against the legs... and that leads to skin abrasion. This is not a good thing, obviously.
If the problem is that you are sliding forward on the saddle, that suggests a problem with the saddle position, or maybe your fit on the bike in general.
Steve in Peoria
longer answer: friction between shorts and the saddle is generally considered to be a bad thing, causing abrasion of one or both materials. The main reason for minimal friction is that the legs are moving relative to the saddle. If the legs of the shorts don't move freely relative to the saddle, then the legs of the shorts will move against the legs... and that leads to skin abrasion. This is not a good thing, obviously.
If the problem is that you are sliding forward on the saddle, that suggests a problem with the saddle position, or maybe your fit on the bike in general.
Steve in Peoria
#3
^What he said. Find the place that you bum wants to slide to and move your saddle.
__________________
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 516
From: NW Ohio
Bikes: 1983 Univega Super Strada, 1986 Panasonic DX5000, 1984 Fuji Team 85 Univega Gran Turismo, 1984 Lotus Unique, 1987 Centurion Expert, 1987 Centurion Ironman Master,
short answer: no idea.
longer answer: friction between shorts and the saddle is generally considered to be a bad thing, causing abrasion of one or both materials. The main reason for minimal friction is that the legs are moving relative to the saddle. If the legs of the shorts don't move freely relative to the saddle, then the legs of the shorts will move against the legs... and that leads to skin abrasion. This is not a good thing, obviously.
If the problem is that you are sliding forward on the saddle, that suggests a problem with the saddle position, or maybe your fit on the bike in general.
Steve in Peoria
longer answer: friction between shorts and the saddle is generally considered to be a bad thing, causing abrasion of one or both materials. The main reason for minimal friction is that the legs are moving relative to the saddle. If the legs of the shorts don't move freely relative to the saddle, then the legs of the shorts will move against the legs... and that leads to skin abrasion. This is not a good thing, obviously.
If the problem is that you are sliding forward on the saddle, that suggests a problem with the saddle position, or maybe your fit on the bike in general.
Steve in Peoria
#5
Senior Member


Joined: May 2008
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From: Fredericksburg, Va
Bikes: ? Proteous, '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, 'Litespeed Catalyst'94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster
I suspect a fit issue, with prime suspect being the saddle location, both vertically and horizontally.
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Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
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#6
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Don't use that saddle with those shorts. These days, I ride wearing my blue jeans, or what ever I happen to be wearing when the need/opportunity presents itself...
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"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
#8
Bike Butcher of Portland


Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 12,436
Likes: 7,956
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: It's complicated.
Just as one is well advised to move one's hands around the bars to rest different areas, moving around on the saddle keeps the soreness away. Or at least down to a dull roar.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#9
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9,811
Likes: 1,788
From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
It's a "humidity" issue, and for sure it makes the saddle uncomfortable since your rear and nethers find the hard edges of the saddle more often.
Solution I found was to start the ride by placing a piece of wet/damp cloth on the saddle, and sitting on it, which quickly puts some moisture into the friction surfaces.
Then, as you ride, sweat vapors should maintain the humidity level sufficiently.
Using salted water instead of plain water will better retain moisture on a dry-air day.
When a saddle was new and hard, I used a slightly different approach. I would place a wet floppy sponge (not quite dripping) on the saddle top, five minutes before riding. I had to keep the sponge from reaching to the hidden edges of the cantle plate and nose clip under the saddle, to prevent the edges of those structural pieces from showing their edges on the top side of the leather. But the leather took on the water, making the saddle grippier and softening the central ridge that needed breaking-in.
As the saddles aged, the need for preventing slipping seemed to go away, so these were temporary measures and did not cause the saddle top to sag.
I note that I am a lighter rider, and that under heavier riders in hot, humid conditions the saddle top may sag excessively even without dampening it manually.
Solution I found was to start the ride by placing a piece of wet/damp cloth on the saddle, and sitting on it, which quickly puts some moisture into the friction surfaces.
Then, as you ride, sweat vapors should maintain the humidity level sufficiently.
Using salted water instead of plain water will better retain moisture on a dry-air day.
When a saddle was new and hard, I used a slightly different approach. I would place a wet floppy sponge (not quite dripping) on the saddle top, five minutes before riding. I had to keep the sponge from reaching to the hidden edges of the cantle plate and nose clip under the saddle, to prevent the edges of those structural pieces from showing their edges on the top side of the leather. But the leather took on the water, making the saddle grippier and softening the central ridge that needed breaking-in.
As the saddles aged, the need for preventing slipping seemed to go away, so these were temporary measures and did not cause the saddle top to sag.
I note that I am a lighter rider, and that under heavier riders in hot, humid conditions the saddle top may sag excessively even without dampening it manually.
#10
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, New York
Bikes: 1981 Colnago, 1984 Bob Jackson, 1985 Benotto
If you ride a Brooks or other leather saddle and slip about, periodically clean the top with saddle soap and oil the underside with Neatsfoot oil. Don't oil to top, as the oil will forever rub off on your shorts, jeans or whatever. Applied to the underside, the oil softens the leather and makes it easier to break in the saddle. Once it is broken in, you'll stay in place better.






