Getting Back into C&V
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: Birmingham, AL
Bikes: '81 Peugeot UO10, REI DRT 1.0
Getting Back into C&V
I found this site back in '14 when I purchased an '81 Peugeot PX-10 for myself and an '81 Bianchi Professional for my girlfriend at the time (now wife!). I spent all summer one year during college restoring both so that I could give the Bianchi as a present. Unfortunately, when my wife and I moved across the country a few years ago (CA -> AL) we couldn't take the bikes with us so I had to sell them.
I have been itching to buy another bike and finally purchased what I think is an '82 Peugeot PBN-10 yesterday! I would love to learn any background info on this bike and how it compares to the PX-10 I used to own. I know it's a slightly lower model but I'm not sure by how much. Thanks!
I have been itching to buy another bike and finally purchased what I think is an '82 Peugeot PBN-10 yesterday! I would love to learn any background info on this bike and how it compares to the PX-10 I used to own. I know it's a slightly lower model but I'm not sure by how much. Thanks!
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,321
Likes: 1,921
Here is a link to the '82 Peugeot brochure.
Peugeot 1982 USA Brochure
Peugeot 1982 USA Brochure
#3
Phyllo-buster


Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9,261
Likes: 2,685
From: Nova Scotia
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
I have almost the same model, an 83 PBN-10s. The frame is a little heavier than the PX10 but that's not terribly important for non racers. The issue I have is the Weinmann sidepull brakes. If you want to ride in town quickly and safely, invest in some better stoppers, perhaps silver Tekto dual pivot calipers.
#4
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: Birmingham, AL
Bikes: '81 Peugeot UO10, REI DRT 1.0
I have almost the same model, an 83 PBN-10s. The frame is a little heavier than the PX10 but that's not terribly important for non racers. The issue I have is the Weinmann sidepull brakes. If you want to ride in town quickly and safely, invest in some better stoppers, perhaps silver Tekto dual pivot calipers.
#6
First off, congrats on tying the knot! And welcome back.
Please take the catalogs at face value, or consider looking =/- 1yr in either direction, sometimes small changes were made.
To nail down the year, check for the stamped serial, normally under the BB shell. 1st character is usually a letter. 2nd digit is a number indicating the last digit of the year. 3rd and 4th together comprise the month of manufacture. If you have a bike on the cusp of the 1st or last quarter of the year (Jan/Feb/Mar or Oct/Nov/Dec) weird stuff can happen with regard to components. You should also be aware decals and equipment can have discrepancies between the regions. For example, if you look at a 1979 PX-10 in US catalogs, you'll probably find different decals than, say, the same in the 1979 France or Netherlands catalogs. Towards the late 80s, you start to see this with naming. Every other region may have the "Marseilles", for example, but you won't find Marseilles in France, why would they name a bike after an iconic city of their own country?
Anyway, post up some pics. We may be able to help nail it down or explain. Could just be the buyer had the shop retrofit also. Never know, it's decades old.
If you ever come up short on something French and don't want to pay to ship, happy to meet you halfway. I've done similar for BF'ers in Chattanooga TN and Anderson SC.
To nail down the year, check for the stamped serial, normally under the BB shell. 1st character is usually a letter. 2nd digit is a number indicating the last digit of the year. 3rd and 4th together comprise the month of manufacture. If you have a bike on the cusp of the 1st or last quarter of the year (Jan/Feb/Mar or Oct/Nov/Dec) weird stuff can happen with regard to components. You should also be aware decals and equipment can have discrepancies between the regions. For example, if you look at a 1979 PX-10 in US catalogs, you'll probably find different decals than, say, the same in the 1979 France or Netherlands catalogs. Towards the late 80s, you start to see this with naming. Every other region may have the "Marseilles", for example, but you won't find Marseilles in France, why would they name a bike after an iconic city of their own country?
Anyway, post up some pics. We may be able to help nail it down or explain. Could just be the buyer had the shop retrofit also. Never know, it's decades old.
If you ever come up short on something French and don't want to pay to ship, happy to meet you halfway. I've done similar for BF'ers in Chattanooga TN and Anderson SC.
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#7
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: Birmingham, AL
Bikes: '81 Peugeot UO10, REI DRT 1.0
First off, congrats on tying the knot! And welcome back.
Please take the catalogs at face value, or consider looking =/- 1yr in either direction, sometimes small changes were made.
To nail down the year, check for the stamped serial, normally under the BB shell. 1st character is usually a letter. 2nd digit is a number indicating the last digit of the year. 3rd and 4th together comprise the month of manufacture. If you have a bike on the cusp of the 1st or last quarter of the year (Jan/Feb/Mar or Oct/Nov/Dec) weird stuff can happen with regard to components. You should also be aware decals and equipment can have discrepancies between the regions. For example, if you look at a 1979 PX-10 in US catalogs, you'll probably find different decals than, say, the same in the 1979 France or Netherlands catalogs. Towards the late 80s, you start to see this with naming. Every other region may have the "Marseilles", for example, but you won't find Marseilles in France, why would they name a bike after an iconic city of their own country?
Anyway, post up some pics. We may be able to help nail it down or explain. Could just be the buyer had the shop retrofit also. Never know, it's decades old.
If you ever come up short on something French and don't want to pay to ship, happy to meet you halfway. I've done similar for BF'ers in Chattanooga TN and Anderson SC.
Please take the catalogs at face value, or consider looking =/- 1yr in either direction, sometimes small changes were made.
To nail down the year, check for the stamped serial, normally under the BB shell. 1st character is usually a letter. 2nd digit is a number indicating the last digit of the year. 3rd and 4th together comprise the month of manufacture. If you have a bike on the cusp of the 1st or last quarter of the year (Jan/Feb/Mar or Oct/Nov/Dec) weird stuff can happen with regard to components. You should also be aware decals and equipment can have discrepancies between the regions. For example, if you look at a 1979 PX-10 in US catalogs, you'll probably find different decals than, say, the same in the 1979 France or Netherlands catalogs. Towards the late 80s, you start to see this with naming. Every other region may have the "Marseilles", for example, but you won't find Marseilles in France, why would they name a bike after an iconic city of their own country?
Anyway, post up some pics. We may be able to help nail it down or explain. Could just be the buyer had the shop retrofit also. Never know, it's decades old.
If you ever come up short on something French and don't want to pay to ship, happy to meet you halfway. I've done similar for BF'ers in Chattanooga TN and Anderson SC.




These decals are confusing me since they don't seem to appear in any of the Peugeot catalogs. Perhaps added later?


#8
Thanks for all the info! Unfortunately, I forgot to take some pictures before tearing it down so these are the best I have. I'm thinking it could also be an '81 or '82 UO10 (which would be a little disappointing) based on the center-pull brakes. Do you happen to know what models had the "course" decal?
These decals are confusing me since they don't seem to appear in any of the Peugeot catalogs. Perhaps added later?
These decals are confusing me since they don't seem to appear in any of the Peugeot catalogs. Perhaps added later?
Serial on the dropout would put this at a 1981 (B103 = 1981 March) , and the sticker shows it's a UO10.
Chainstays have some pretty significant kickstand crush. Nothing to be worried about, but also unfixable.
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#9
Almost forgot to add.
When you go to re-cable, you need to know, the Simplex levers with the sun around the S have notoriously small holes to hold the cable head, so much so it's common to find heads that were shoved in and are now firmly stuck. Standard cheapie cables have heads that won't easily fit. Shimano's cables will work but will set you back $7-9/ea.
I highly recommend this kit, which is usually $9-12 on Amazon, the shift cable ends fit, and it has all housings and cables to do brakes and shifting, so it's a win-win, you can get all cabling done for $10. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L8NDVD6
Not only that, but the stock housing was black, so it'll fit what's stock, size and whatnot. Be careful with the pulleys/jockeys on the rear mech, they're made of Delrin, it's brittle, they'll crack and are hard to find replacements. The mechs on that bike are solid, especially the rear.
That specific Peugeot-branded crankset has a penchant for the 5 arms on the spider bending. Good, lightweight Stronglight crankset, though.
Don't lose the black plastic spacer on the non-drive side dropout. Trust me.
For those levers, I believe the Cane Creek 144.7 gum hoods are the correct replacement.
When you go to re-cable, you need to know, the Simplex levers with the sun around the S have notoriously small holes to hold the cable head, so much so it's common to find heads that were shoved in and are now firmly stuck. Standard cheapie cables have heads that won't easily fit. Shimano's cables will work but will set you back $7-9/ea.
I highly recommend this kit, which is usually $9-12 on Amazon, the shift cable ends fit, and it has all housings and cables to do brakes and shifting, so it's a win-win, you can get all cabling done for $10. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L8NDVD6
Not only that, but the stock housing was black, so it'll fit what's stock, size and whatnot. Be careful with the pulleys/jockeys on the rear mech, they're made of Delrin, it's brittle, they'll crack and are hard to find replacements. The mechs on that bike are solid, especially the rear.
That specific Peugeot-branded crankset has a penchant for the 5 arms on the spider bending. Good, lightweight Stronglight crankset, though.
Don't lose the black plastic spacer on the non-drive side dropout. Trust me.
For those levers, I believe the Cane Creek 144.7 gum hoods are the correct replacement.
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#10
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: Birmingham, AL
Bikes: '81 Peugeot UO10, REI DRT 1.0
Almost forgot to add.
When you go to re-cable, you need to know, the Simplex levers with the sun around the S have notoriously small holes to hold the cable head, so much so it's common to find heads that were shoved in and are now firmly stuck. Standard cheapie cables have heads that won't easily fit. Shimano's cables will work but will set you back $7-9/ea.
I highly recommend this kit, which is usually $9-12 on Amazon, the shift cable ends fit, and it has all housings and cables to do brakes and shifting, so it's a win-win, you can get all cabling done for $10. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L8NDVD6
Not only that, but the stock housing was black, so it'll fit what's stock, size and whatnot. Be careful with the pulleys/jockeys on the rear mech, they're made of Delrin, it's brittle, they'll crack and are hard to find replacements. The mechs on that bike are solid, especially the rear.
That specific Peugeot-branded crankset has a penchant for the 5 arms on the spider bending. Good, lightweight Stronglight crankset, though.
Don't lose the black plastic spacer on the non-drive side dropout. Trust me.
For those levers, I believe the Cane Creek 144.7 gum hoods are the correct replacement.
When you go to re-cable, you need to know, the Simplex levers with the sun around the S have notoriously small holes to hold the cable head, so much so it's common to find heads that were shoved in and are now firmly stuck. Standard cheapie cables have heads that won't easily fit. Shimano's cables will work but will set you back $7-9/ea.
I highly recommend this kit, which is usually $9-12 on Amazon, the shift cable ends fit, and it has all housings and cables to do brakes and shifting, so it's a win-win, you can get all cabling done for $10. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L8NDVD6
Not only that, but the stock housing was black, so it'll fit what's stock, size and whatnot. Be careful with the pulleys/jockeys on the rear mech, they're made of Delrin, it's brittle, they'll crack and are hard to find replacements. The mechs on that bike are solid, especially the rear.
That specific Peugeot-branded crankset has a penchant for the 5 arms on the spider bending. Good, lightweight Stronglight crankset, though.
Don't lose the black plastic spacer on the non-drive side dropout. Trust me.
For those levers, I believe the Cane Creek 144.7 gum hoods are the correct replacement.
#11
$150 is not a horrible price for what you've got there. That's about what it would go for over here in Atlanta. If you can get it refurbished and back on the road for under $300 purchase price inclusive, at least you can potentially sell later for the same.
Michelin Dynamic Classic tires look great on these and can be had for $150-19/ea on a good day. If you want some freebie brake blocks that work well with those calipers, drop me a PM, I'll ship some over. I ordered 20 pairs recently and the store sent me 1 pair. So I reached out to them, and they shipped me the 20 pairs, then a few days later, another 20 pairs. I'm flush, and it'll save you $20.
Michelin Dynamic Classic tires look great on these and can be had for $150-19/ea on a good day. If you want some freebie brake blocks that work well with those calipers, drop me a PM, I'll ship some over. I ordered 20 pairs recently and the store sent me 1 pair. So I reached out to them, and they shipped me the 20 pairs, then a few days later, another 20 pairs. I'm flush, and it'll save you $20.
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#12
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,397
Likes: 1,864
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
I have almost the same model, an 83 PBN-10s. The frame is a little heavier than the PX10 but that's not terribly important for non racers. The issue I have is the Weinmann sidepull brakes. If you want to ride in town quickly and safely, invest in some better stoppers, perhaps silver Tekto dual pivot calipers.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069






