Brooks Saddle Break-in
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2021
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From: Duncan, BC
Bikes: Eaton's TruLine Glider
Brooks Saddle Break-in
I've always loved the looks of a Brooks B-17 but have been kind of leery of them. Can anyone relate their break-in stories... to either put my mind at ease or scare me away completely.
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Berkeley CA
Bikes: 1981 Ron Cooper, 1974 Cinelli Speciale Corsa, 1975 Alex Singer, 2000 Gary Fisher Sugar 1, 1986 Miyata 710, 1982 Raleigh "International", 1985 Trek 720
Unlike the Brooks Pro, which I have found both uncomfortable and almost impossible to break in, I find that B-17s break in relatively quickly. In addition, I have found that they are pretty comfortable right out of the box, though they do improve over a few hundred miles of riding. YMMV.
#3
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Unlike the Brooks Pro, which I have found both uncomfortable and almost impossible to break in, I find that B-17s break in relatively quickly. In addition, I have found that they are pretty comfortable right out of the box, though they do improve over a few hundred miles of riding. YMMV.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#4
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From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
I have owned several Brooks saddles and two, both B17 models, were very comfortable right out of the box. Any other models did require some break-in (500 miles or so) to achieve that same level of comfort. But remember, it is my butt that we are talking about and mine is different than anybody else's. Meaning that was is comfortable for me might not be so for other people.
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#5
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From: Valley Forge: Birthplace of Freedom
Bikes: Novara Safari, CAAD9, WABI Classic, WABI Thunder
I own(ed) 5 Brooks. 2 B17 regular and 1 B17 flyer (sprung) which I never saw why people made a big deal of breaking in.
1 Conquest which is a Pro leather top on a sprung frame. No issues breaking in and is my most comfortable Brooks.
I am currently breaking in a B17 Narrow. It is taking the longest to get comfortable, though after 500 miles is beginning to show my sit bone areas. I still wear padded shorts with this one. I have high hopes for this one.
Before my first one I finally realized 100+ years and still making the same design it must be worth a shot. Worst case is you try it for a season and if you still don't like it you can sell it for 75% of what you paid.
1 Conquest which is a Pro leather top on a sprung frame. No issues breaking in and is my most comfortable Brooks.
I am currently breaking in a B17 Narrow. It is taking the longest to get comfortable, though after 500 miles is beginning to show my sit bone areas. I still wear padded shorts with this one. I have high hopes for this one.
Before my first one I finally realized 100+ years and still making the same design it must be worth a shot. Worst case is you try it for a season and if you still don't like it you can sell it for 75% of what you paid.
Last edited by stevel610; 06-23-21 at 02:05 PM.
#7
Phyllo-buster


Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Nova Scotia
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
... to either put my mind at ease or scare me away completely...
There's two types of people in the world, those that ride them and those that don't. Many enjoy them not broken in, they fit well out of the box. I'm one of those.
Each model fits differently. Try to 'borrow' some test rides before you throw away $100 and have a snit, declaring Brooks saddles good for nothing. You may have picked the wrong model to start with.
The B17 is probably a good starting point in the middle of the pack.
There's two types of people in the world, those that ride them and those that don't. Many enjoy them not broken in, they fit well out of the box. I'm one of those.
Each model fits differently. Try to 'borrow' some test rides before you throw away $100 and have a snit, declaring Brooks saddles good for nothing. You may have picked the wrong model to start with.
The B17 is probably a good starting point in the middle of the pack.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 813
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From: Adelaide, Australia
Make sure that your measure your 'sit bones' and ensure they fall within the cantle plate.
Make sure that the saddle width is appropriate for the style of riding you propose (wider saddles for a more upright riding style)
These are covered here and here
In 'breaking-in' a tensioned leather saddle you are aiming for it to mold to your sit bones.
The vegetable-tanned leather is soaked in water then pressure molded in the factory to the shape you buy. You are aiming to fine-tune that shape by applying pressure from your sit bones to the leather which subtly reshapes the leather at those higher pressure points.
Where the pressure is equalized, the saddle is then molded to your riding position.
The process is aided by the normal humidity found at that contact point when riding.
The thicker the leather, the longer the process is likely to take, but the longer the saddle will last. There has been a suggestion that a damp (not wet) cloth on the saddle top for about 30 min then a short 30 min ride can speed up the process of the pressure point equalization. Then let the saddle leather dry thoroughly.
If you apply conditioners to the leather to make it soft and pliable the leather will not retain the molded shape and it will quickly stretch and become unusable. Follow Brooks advice!
Make sure that the saddle width is appropriate for the style of riding you propose (wider saddles for a more upright riding style)
These are covered here and here
In 'breaking-in' a tensioned leather saddle you are aiming for it to mold to your sit bones.
The vegetable-tanned leather is soaked in water then pressure molded in the factory to the shape you buy. You are aiming to fine-tune that shape by applying pressure from your sit bones to the leather which subtly reshapes the leather at those higher pressure points.
Where the pressure is equalized, the saddle is then molded to your riding position.
The process is aided by the normal humidity found at that contact point when riding.
The thicker the leather, the longer the process is likely to take, but the longer the saddle will last. There has been a suggestion that a damp (not wet) cloth on the saddle top for about 30 min then a short 30 min ride can speed up the process of the pressure point equalization. Then let the saddle leather dry thoroughly.
If you apply conditioners to the leather to make it soft and pliable the leather will not retain the molded shape and it will quickly stretch and become unusable. Follow Brooks advice!
#10
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,722
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From: Berkeley CA
Bikes: 1981 Ron Cooper, 1974 Cinelli Speciale Corsa, 1975 Alex Singer, 2000 Gary Fisher Sugar 1, 1986 Miyata 710, 1982 Raleigh "International", 1985 Trek 720
This is definitely not true for everybody. My understanding is that a Pro is a racing saddle designed for down-in-the-drops riding whereas a B-17 is a touring saddle designed for more upright stances. For myself, I used Pros for years and always hated them but I am super-comfortable on B-17s (especially the Imperials).
#11
I’m a little Surly
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,436
Likes: 1,321
From: Near the district
Bikes: Two Cross Checks, Karate Monkey, Disc Trucker, and a VO Randonneur

Broken in (bike in front) vs not broken in (bike in back) I hope you can see the dip and indents. The reality is I baby the bike in the back but don’t the bike in the front.
#13
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From: Nevada County, California
Bikes: Subject to change at any given moment but currently is...... Colnago Mapei, Colnago C40, Wilier Triestina Carbon, Wilier Triestina Ramato, Follis 472, Peugeot PX60, Razesa, Orbea Terra, Soma Pescadero and 1/2 owner of a Santana tandem.
After trying my best to like them and putting hundreds of miles on a couple I’ve decided to dump all of them and go with something else.
beautiful saddles but not made for me.
beautiful saddles but not made for me.
#14
Cyclotouriste


Joined: Aug 2009
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From: South Holland, NL
Bikes: Yes, please.
A hard saddle is not necessarily an uncomfortable saddle, I have found.
I bought this NOS example at a swap meet a few years ago. Nice thick leather but pretty hard. I dreaded the breaking-in part, but because I liked its looks I put it on my favorite touring bike anyway.
And it is still there after a couple of vacation trips and many hundreds of miles. Whenever I get on it, it feels hard, but I find I can ride it all day for days on end and never be uncomfortable. Go figure.
I bought this NOS example at a swap meet a few years ago. Nice thick leather but pretty hard. I dreaded the breaking-in part, but because I liked its looks I put it on my favorite touring bike anyway.
And it is still there after a couple of vacation trips and many hundreds of miles. Whenever I get on it, it feels hard, but I find I can ride it all day for days on end and never be uncomfortable. Go figure.
#16
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From: Evanston, IL
Bikes: many
If I didn't like a saddle, I moved it on. There's not much of a cost other than time. I don't think the value of a leather saddle changes all that much over the course of a few miles (50-500).
I happen to like Brooks Pros and B-17s. I have some Pros that seem to be rock hard, but my butt likes them anyway. I have both Rebour (pre-softened) and regular Ideale 90s. Like 'em both. 80s not as much. I moved the Fujita Belt on. My sit bones simply didn't like it. The VO was good enough for commuting, but not that great for longer rides.
I think as you've seen from the other replies, saddle fit is a very personal thing. You're just going to have to run your own personal experiment. It will take some time, but in the end, you'll come to conclusions that work for you.
#18
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2013
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A Brooks is like any other saddle: if it doesn't fit you right out of the box, it never will. I just returned to a B17 (a NOS one, it appears) after a few years on C17s and I'd forgotten how well the B17 fits me. Rock hard, not broken in by any stretch of the imagination, but SO comfortable!
#19
framebuilder


Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,790
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From: Niles, Michigan
Leather used on saddles are not all the same. There are harder and softer ones. If you push the palm of your hand into the wide part of 10 different saddles, you will be able to tell some differences. My 1st leather saddle was on my 1965 Schwinn Super Sport and that got me started using leather saddles on all my primary bicycles. Sometimes I get one that just doesn't work for me but I blame the cow it came from and not the general category of leather saddles.
#20
IMO, "breaking in" a Brooks is sort of a myth. Yes, they do change over time, but if you can't set it up in a way that you are comfortable right away, it will probably never be comfortable. They are best when they are hard and new. You may need to spend a bit of time making very small adjustments, but once you get it right, they're the best.
#21
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Tixkokob, Yucatán, México
Bikes: 79 Trek 930, 80 Trek 414, 84 Schwinn Letour Luxe (coupled), 92 Schwinn Paramount PDG 5
I'm currently testing a B17 Imperial. When I had it on my 92 PDG Paramount, it was very comfortable, except in the drops(note: it's not yet broken in). I moved it over to my 84 Letour Luxe and cannot find the sweet spot. I also cannot ride a Team Pro, but love the B17 Narrow and the C15
#23
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2019
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From: SF Bay Area
Bikes: Raleigh Super Course, Raleigh International, Raleigh Gran Sport
I have two bikes with B-17s and two with the Brooks Pro. I find the B-17 is more comfortable when first getting on the bike, but the Pro is better on a longer ride. The larger area of the B17 involves more of the soft tissue around the sit-bones which gets sore after a few hours. The Pro is all about the sit-bones and leaves the rest alone. Also better for circulation and preventing numbness you-know-where.
The Raleigh Professional Mk 1 I re-furbed recently came with a 52 year old Brooks Pro - Dry and hard as a rock, but comfortable from the get-go. I felt right at home, the previous owner must have had sit-bones in about the same place as me. I agree with the poster above who said that soft doesn't necessarily equal comfort. Riding a plastic saddle with a bunch of foam on it will confirm that quickly. The POS saddle that came on my DaHon folder made that point right away and was set aside pronto.
The Raleigh Professional Mk 1 I re-furbed recently came with a 52 year old Brooks Pro - Dry and hard as a rock, but comfortable from the get-go. I felt right at home, the previous owner must have had sit-bones in about the same place as me. I agree with the poster above who said that soft doesn't necessarily equal comfort. Riding a plastic saddle with a bunch of foam on it will confirm that quickly. The POS saddle that came on my DaHon folder made that point right away and was set aside pronto.
#24
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, 86 De Rosa Pro, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
everyone is different, no matter what saddle you ride it has to fit your bottom.....here is my experience
B17. was comfortable immediately, after I fiddled with seat position and tilt. out of the box it was pretty slippery, ended up with a slight nose tilt up, 15 years later I have only tightened the bolt once, a little bit, use only proofide on it am starting to see dents
B17 Imperial Narrow.....simple did not fit, was not comfortable from first ride, I got rid of it fast
Swift comfortable immediately,
other saddles that I ride or have ridden and work for me: Selle Turbo and Flyte
B17. was comfortable immediately, after I fiddled with seat position and tilt. out of the box it was pretty slippery, ended up with a slight nose tilt up, 15 years later I have only tightened the bolt once, a little bit, use only proofide on it am starting to see dents
B17 Imperial Narrow.....simple did not fit, was not comfortable from first ride, I got rid of it fast
Swift comfortable immediately,
other saddles that I ride or have ridden and work for me: Selle Turbo and Flyte
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#25
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... to either put my mind at ease or scare me away completely...
There's two types of people in the world, those that ride them and those that don't. Many enjoy them not broken in, they fit well out of the box. I'm one of those.
Each model fits differently. Try to 'borrow' some test rides before you throw away $100 and have a snit, declaring Brooks saddles good for nothing. You may have picked the wrong model to start with.
The B17 is probably a good starting point in the middle of the pack.
There's two types of people in the world, those that ride them and those that don't. Many enjoy them not broken in, they fit well out of the box. I'm one of those.
Each model fits differently. Try to 'borrow' some test rides before you throw away $100 and have a snit, declaring Brooks saddles good for nothing. You may have picked the wrong model to start with.
The B17 is probably a good starting point in the middle of the pack.
I am the same here. I was scared, but the draw to finally get a more classic look to my bikes finally got me to get a few saddles. Got a Team Pro, a few B17's, a couple of Swallows and a Swift. All of them feel good out of the box, except the B17 is definitely the one where there is more give. While all leather saddles rely on a "hammock" concept, the B17 feels the most bouncy, with the Team Pro still very solid, after close to 700 miles on it. The Swallow I have only ridden twice so far for a total of 70 miles, but it might be the most comfortable one yet to me.
Note: I also do NOT point my saddles up. I have them horizontal.
Note 2: Team Pro does not have saddle bag hooks on the back, so that is also something one should consider when purchasing it (especially if for a touring bike).
See these two:

Brooks saddles we’re out enforce
Last edited by Het Volk; 06-23-21 at 11:32 PM.







