Painting Pantographs
#1
Painting Pantographs
Any tips on painting pantographs on a old bike? I have an early-80s Serotta that I’m finally getting around to redoing - new paint and more modern hardware. I just don’t have experience in dealing with fine etchings on the frame and fork. What are your experiences?
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Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.
Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.
#2
that's something I've had an interest in, but never did it. Still, I do recall this getting discussed a few times in not-too-distant history. Hopefully a search will pull up the threads?
Steve in Peoria
Steve in Peoria
#5
.
...this is how I do it:
1. Finish your repaint of the frame with a 2 part epoxy clear coat. Let that cure for about a week.
2. Use a fine artists brush or a paint pen to fill the pantographing with whatever contrasting color you picked.
3. Let that sit in there about five minutes until it starts to thicken.
4. Take a blue shop towel (the disposable kind, similar to paper towels), moistened with mineral spirits. Wring it out so it's not dripping.
Wrap a single or double layer of it around something like a dowel for a curved stay cap like that, or just a straight edged wood scrap for flat.
With a single swiping action, wipe off anything that you painted on there that has gone outside the clean, machined edge of the pantograph.
5. This will sometimes still leave some streaking on the bottom edge of your swiping stroke. You can usually clean that up with another part of the same blue, spirits moistened towel, around your finger.
6. With the advantage of the epoxy clear coat protecting your color coat, you get as many tries as you need, until you get it right. It's important to get clean, sharp edges.

...this is how I do it:
1. Finish your repaint of the frame with a 2 part epoxy clear coat. Let that cure for about a week.
2. Use a fine artists brush or a paint pen to fill the pantographing with whatever contrasting color you picked.
3. Let that sit in there about five minutes until it starts to thicken.
4. Take a blue shop towel (the disposable kind, similar to paper towels), moistened with mineral spirits. Wring it out so it's not dripping.
Wrap a single or double layer of it around something like a dowel for a curved stay cap like that, or just a straight edged wood scrap for flat.
With a single swiping action, wipe off anything that you painted on there that has gone outside the clean, machined edge of the pantograph.
5. This will sometimes still leave some streaking on the bottom edge of your swiping stroke. You can usually clean that up with another part of the same blue, spirits moistened towel, around your finger.
6. With the advantage of the epoxy clear coat protecting your color coat, you get as many tries as you need, until you get it right. It's important to get clean, sharp edges.

#6
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#8
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#9
Bike Butcher of Portland


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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#10







