Brake options
#1
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From: Elwood Indiana
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Brake options
My calipers just aren’t long enough. Is the a GS caliper with a longer reach? I’m running 27” wheels. Thanks.
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Semper fi
Semper fi
#2
Several options to try and/or combine:
File the slots in the caliper arms so the pad can sit a bit lower.
Use thinner pads and/or grind away the top edge of your pad so it does not contact the tire.
Use bdop offset pad holders such as in; 650 BDop: A Cautionary Tale
Use an offset drop brake bolt such as;
https://www.amazon.com/SuperNova22-T.../dp/B07FB8VCCB
File the slots in the caliper arms so the pad can sit a bit lower.
Use thinner pads and/or grind away the top edge of your pad so it does not contact the tire.
Use bdop offset pad holders such as in; 650 BDop: A Cautionary Tale
Use an offset drop brake bolt such as;
https://www.amazon.com/SuperNova22-T.../dp/B07FB8VCCB
#3
SE Wis

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From: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
#4
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Bikes: 1991 Centurion Oxygen, 1997 Centurion Invincible, 1995+- Fondriest Wind, 1982 Grand Master Nissan Pro 2000, 1992 Olmo Racing (The racing part of the name HAS to be a joke).
According to Velobase, the 1978 version of the GS was available with both normal reach (47mm) and long reach (52mm). No specs are given for the earlier GS, but I assume it was also available in both lenghts. So if you have the normal reach option, you could get the long reach version instead.
The Record brakes were also available in both 47mm and 52mm.
The Record brakes were also available in both 47mm and 52mm.
#5
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From: Kingwood, TX
Bikes: Road, Touring, BMX, Cruisers...
I would say drop bolt also but you could probably get the long reach brakes cheaper…
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1984 Cannondale ST
1985 Cannondale SR300
1980 Gary Littlejohn Cruiser
1984 Trek 760
1981 Trek 710
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#6
Why spend $$$ on adaptor bits or weird pads - they're not cheap - your pads as pictured are close enough to the rim walls so that filing the caliper slots will work handsomly. You could also use the side of a drill bit if you have a power drill. I've done this (with the permission of the bike owner), it works, it arguably compromises the rigidity of the caliper arms somewhat but neither I nor the customers have ever felt or noticed any difference. Just my two lira.
#7
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From: Goose Creek, SC
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Two cents...
Measure the reach.
If it is the shorter reach version, sell those to offset the cost of the long reach ones.
if it is the long reach version, look into the drop bolt solution or you might have to look for Dia Compe (500s?), or Shimano longer reach brakes (Z series maybe?)
If it is the shorter reach version, sell those to offset the cost of the long reach ones.
if it is the long reach version, look into the drop bolt solution or you might have to look for Dia Compe (500s?), or Shimano longer reach brakes (Z series maybe?)
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1987 Crest C'dale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin EL, 1990 Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Isoard, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 C'dale M500, 1984 Mercian Pro, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi ?, 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh Internat'l, 1998 Corratec U+D, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone, 1987 Bianchi Volpe, 1995 Trek 750





