I have a Gitane Champion (presumably it's a 1985) and it is equipped with a "Gitane Chrome Standard" headset (per catalogues) and if you notice below, the headset has a locking nut on top, followed by two spacers, followed by the adjustable or top bearing race. Locking nut takes a standard 32mm wrench but it simply will not turn. The locking race on this headset has only a knurled surface to hold while applying the tool to the locking nut. In my experience, top bearing races usually have flats to allow a wrench to fit or holes that allow a tool to lock in and give purchase while the locking nut turns. Presumably, I could wrap the top bearing race in duct tape or similar and apply a pipe wrench to hold it while I try to turn the locking nut. I can't believe that this is the best solution.

I've run into this previously but can't recall what I did. I tried searching "headset with knurled bearing race", etc but no luck.

Any ideas? Any specific tool(s)?

My headset





Sorry for the close up, headset looks worse in photo than real life!

Online photo showing same headset on another 1985 Champion

My approach is to remove the front wheel, put the handle of my hammer between the fork blades and hold with one hand while I go at the top nut with the other hand. You can get lots of leverage as both arms are close to your body, and fork blades should be fine if your hammer handle is made out of hard wood as is mine.

I use these guys all the time on knurled headsets - ATI Industries AT508K pliers.

I got two pairs from the Boeing surplus store but they are still available online pretty cheap (not as cheap as mine were):

It may not be the handiest tool, but I've made good use of my ViceGrip chain wrench. Unlike some clamping wrenches, like a pipe wrench, the chain wrench grabs a round object all the way around, without teeth that can mar the part. I've used it on headsets when my confidence in the wee key on the washers is very low (most of the time). On small parts you need to think ahead on how to keep the excess chain out of the way.

I've recently seen a vintage VAR headset wrench, sort of like the wrench nlerner showed above. Nice tool, that.

In a similar vein, OP could also try a strap wrench. The synthetic rubber strap should provide a good grip and it won't mar the knurled fitting.

Not cheap but these are quality headset pliers from Hozan that will do the trick. Yeah you may mar the surface a bit but you can try using a rag with them as well.

https://www.amazon.com/HOZAN-C-203-H...a-441435708121

VAR-78. Works on tight jar lids in the kitchen, too:

Thank you everyone!

I'll borrow the VAR - 78 from my local frame builder who says he has one. but looks like I need the AT508k pliers, at $26 I can justify those. Much as I love the quality of Var tools the only Var - 78 I found was $76!

I'd use the hammer handle method but no my lack of finesse I'd definitely trash the forks...

Yeah, it's unfortunate, there's a strong aftermarket for VAR tools and even the current versions they're making, there's very little difference in buying new vs. used..
Also unfortunate, ICETOOLZ, Hozan and others making comparable tools often price within 20% of VAR prices, so it hurts no matter - fixed cup removal and cotter tools are great examples.

I think it's just one of those things: Bikes are still considered a very recreational thing, especially vintage, so we won't see the Harbor Freight version of bike tool resources popping up any time soon. I'd love to see some of VAR's stuff come down 20%, but all I'm seeing is a steady rise the last 10 years, and it's up 20% instead.