Huret shifter maintenance
#1
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Huret shifter maintenance
Hi all. Recently picked up a pair of Huret "Ratchet" shifters (that's what they're called here, maybe 2/3rds down the page), the kind with a two-way clutch and, oddly, no ratchet. No clue how a "two-way clutch" works. Anyway, tension is preset, and the unit comes as a piece -- you don't screw the shifters onto the bosses. It looks like this:
You can see the loop at the end of the spring where the shifter cable goes through. Apparently this is important to the design.
They come with a cap preventing access to the screw. There is no tension adjustment available (or required, apparently)
Cap on rear shifter has fallen off.
With all that, one of the shifters has more resistance than the other (it's nonuniform, too). Not too bad, so I could live with it, but maybe a good cleaning would improve matters. Can I just soak the whole thing in degreaser? Any particular things to watch for when taking it apart (it seems to be designed to discourage taking it apart.) Are there known issues with these and known fixes/preventative measures? Thanks in advance for any information!
You can see the loop at the end of the spring where the shifter cable goes through. Apparently this is important to the design.
They come with a cap preventing access to the screw. There is no tension adjustment available (or required, apparently)
Cap on rear shifter has fallen off.
With all that, one of the shifters has more resistance than the other (it's nonuniform, too). Not too bad, so I could live with it, but maybe a good cleaning would improve matters. Can I just soak the whole thing in degreaser? Any particular things to watch for when taking it apart (it seems to be designed to discourage taking it apart.) Are there known issues with these and known fixes/preventative measures? Thanks in advance for any information!
#2
verktyg
Join Date: Jul 2006
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sincos
"Any particular things to watch for when taking it apart (it seems to be designed to discourage taking it apart.)"
DON'T
Ne touche pas!!!
Si ce n'est pas cassé - ne le répare pas!!! (If it aint broke, don't fix it!)
Not everything on a bike is made to be user serviced!
I would remove any dirt or grit from the outside first. An old tooth brush works good for this. If there's some old hard grease in the levers then flush it out with some kind of solvent. NOT GASOLINE (PETROL)!
91% alcohol works good for this and is safe.
Next, work some thin oil or lubricant into the moving parts. voilà
I've never seen those levers before but someone mentioned Huret Retrofriction levers as being better that Simplex Retrofriction levers. That's what you may have.
Here's how a spring clutch works... Google for more info...
verktyg
"Any particular things to watch for when taking it apart (it seems to be designed to discourage taking it apart.)"
DON'T
Ne touche pas!!!
Si ce n'est pas cassé - ne le répare pas!!! (If it aint broke, don't fix it!)
Not everything on a bike is made to be user serviced!
I would remove any dirt or grit from the outside first. An old tooth brush works good for this. If there's some old hard grease in the levers then flush it out with some kind of solvent. NOT GASOLINE (PETROL)!
91% alcohol works good for this and is safe.
Next, work some thin oil or lubricant into the moving parts. voilà
I've never seen those levers before but someone mentioned Huret Retrofriction levers as being better that Simplex Retrofriction levers. That's what you may have.
Here's how a spring clutch works... Google for more info...
verktyg
__________________
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Last edited by verktyg; 10-21-21 at 02:02 AM.
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#4
verktyg
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 4,030
Bikes: Current favorites: 1988 Peugeot Birraritz, 1984 Gitane Super Corsa, 1980s DeRosa, 1981 Bianchi Campione Del Mondo, 1992 Paramount OS, 1988 Colnago Technos, 1985 RalieghUSA SBDU Team Pro
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Ratchet & Retrofriction Shift Levers
My suggestion to the OP sincos was to clean and lube the levers before attempting to take them apart.
1st year medical school meme: When you hear hoof beats, think horses, not zebras... In other words look for the simplest, most obvious solution first (before performing brain surgery).
I've been messing with derailleur bikes since 1964 and I wouldn't have a problem tearing into something like those Huret levers... But frequently more wear and tear happens to bicycle components from disassembly and reassembly than from actual usage, especially with someone inexperienced with working on these things.
Huret stuff has always been over complicated. The Huret levers have 2 small parts one both sides: 1441 & 1442 which are the ratchet pawls and pawl springs. See parts breakdown in the link. They look like they could be a PIA when reassembling.
BTW, I have a number of versions of Simplex Retrofriction levers plus Campy Dopplers, Suntour Ratchets, the new Dia-Compe Silver levers and the Gipiemme GPM Chronosprint 870 BC levers.
For me, the Gipiemme work the best among classic levers when used with classic rear derailleurs up to 7 speeds, but like most of the other levers listed in the link, they're limited in the amount of cable wrap they have by the "spool diameter. Most are around 16mm.
The Dia-Compe W levers have a spool diameter of ~22mm and can easily handle 10 speed cassettes. They work smoothly but aren't anywhere as robust at the old Suntour Ratchet levers.
One other set of levers, microSHIFT are both index and ratchet. They have a nice feel and can handle up to 10 speeds but the levers and not very long and more suited for bar ends than down tubes. Also the construction is not very robust...
verktyg
__________________
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
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#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
sincos
"Any particular things to watch for when taking it apart (it seems to be designed to discourage taking it apart.)"
DON'T
Ne touche pas!!!
Si ce n'est pas cassé - ne le répare pas!!! (If it aint broke, don't fix it!)
Not everything on a bike is made to be user serviced!
I would remove any dirt or grit from the outside first. An old tooth brush works good for this. If there's some old hard grease in the levers then flush it out with some kind of solvent. NOT GASOLINE (PETROL)!
91% alcohol works good for this and is safe.
Next, work some thin oil or lubricant into the moving parts. voilà
"Any particular things to watch for when taking it apart (it seems to be designed to discourage taking it apart.)"
DON'T
Ne touche pas!!!
Si ce n'est pas cassé - ne le répare pas!!! (If it aint broke, don't fix it!)
Not everything on a bike is made to be user serviced!
I would remove any dirt or grit from the outside first. An old tooth brush works good for this. If there's some old hard grease in the levers then flush it out with some kind of solvent. NOT GASOLINE (PETROL)!
91% alcohol works good for this and is safe.
Next, work some thin oil or lubricant into the moving parts. voilà
I've never seen those levers before but someone mentioned Huret Retrofriction levers as being better that Simplex Retrofriction levers. That's what you may have.
Here's how a spring clutch works... Google for more info...
verktyg
Here's how a spring clutch works... Google for more info...
verktyg
All you want to know is here:
https://kuromori.home.blog/clutched-one-way-shifters/
https://kuromori.home.blog/clutched-one-way-shifters/