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Old 11-05-21 | 09:04 AM
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Decals

Are there tips to protecting the decals on vintage frames when they're held in a work stand? A recent bike I was working on I had the assembled frame in a Park work stand clamped to the seat tube. Efforts were use to put the rubber padded clamp in a clear area between decals but either slippage through time or didn't see it but one got "squashed and distorted" with some of another sticking to the clamp.
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Old 11-05-21 | 09:18 AM
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I generally clamp to the seat POST not the tube as my vintage road bikes are quite tender and sometimes( bottom bracket maintenance ) I put quite a bit of force on the bike. If I am just taking a wheel off to clean or repair I may use the tubes and then I wrap one of those lint free detail rags around the tube.
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Old 11-05-21 | 09:26 AM
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Bikes: 1984 Schwinn Supersport, 1988 Trek 400T, 1977 Trek TX900, 1982 Bianchi Champione del Mondo, 1978 Raleigh Supercourse, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 1991 Waterford PDG OS Paramount, 1971 Schwinn Sports Tourer, 1985 Trek 670

I’ve got 2 old Blackburn stands with the hard rubber clamp. I always use the top tube, so just put a folded over polishing cloth over the top tube of the bike before clamping it. Haven’t trashed a non clear-coated decal yet
Tim


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Old 11-05-21 | 10:46 AM
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Raising the seatpost and clamping that is effective and side benefit add a bit of grease before lowering it back to insure it is not stuck.
Too hard to extract?, ream or hone time, once done, works like a charm.
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Old 11-06-21 | 10:39 AM
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Thanks for the tips. Duh moment, didn't think of the seat post.
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Old 11-06-21 | 11:47 AM
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Clamp The Top Tube

Originally Posted by tkamd73
I’ve got 2 old Blackburn stands with the hard rubber clamp. I always use the top tube, so just put a folded over polishing cloth over the top tube of the bike before clamping it. Haven’t trashed a non clear-coated decal yet
Tim


I have an old Blackburn bench top clamp that I've had it since the 1980's. For light stuff, I wrap a cut to size cloth around the top tube. When I'm working on bare frames, sometimes I'll put in a proper sized old steel seatpost and grip it in the Blackburn. For heavy work like removing or installing a BB I'll sometimes grip the frame near the bottom of the down tube. I put the bike on the ground to remove stuck pedals.



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Old 11-06-21 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage
Raising the seatpost and clamping that is effective and side benefit add a bit of grease before lowering it back to insure it is not stuck.
Too hard to extract?, ream or hone time, once done, works like a charm.
Totally agree. No worries damaging decals, paint or denting anything (especially carbon). Also allows for easy drivetrain work because pedals clear the stand vs using the seat tube.
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Old 11-06-21 | 05:42 PM
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From: Menomonee Falls, WI

Bikes: 1984 Schwinn Supersport, 1988 Trek 400T, 1977 Trek TX900, 1982 Bianchi Champione del Mondo, 1978 Raleigh Supercourse, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 1991 Waterford PDG OS Paramount, 1971 Schwinn Sports Tourer, 1985 Trek 670

Yeah on a newer bike I’ll use the seat post, only way the Blackburn work stand will work. My 2nd Blackburn is a bench top mount.
Tim
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Old 11-06-21 | 08:49 PM
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Yeah, "don't clamp on a frame tube." If you're worried about losing a hard-won saddle height by clamping on the seat post, either mark the post in some way or use a tool to restore the saddle to the correct height after working on the bike:
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Old 11-06-21 | 11:30 PM
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This all sounds hideously familiar. The first I had a frame resprayed, I put in the stand clamped by the seat tube. That did small bit of damage to a decal. Not a big deal in the overall scheme of things (you have to look pretty closely to see it), but I was not a happy camper. I mean, I hadn't even gotten the bike built up and on the road before it had been schmutzed up.

Since then, I clamp the seat post each and every time. I have yet to mess up a decal that way.
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Old 11-07-21 | 01:29 AM
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I always wrap the tube with a microfiber cloth even if there's not a decal in the way.
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