Internal cable?
11-19-21, 07:35 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Internal cable?
Hello, I want to run Campagnolo Nuovo Record group, on a late eighties, frame with internal brake, and rear derailleur. My question is what/how do I approach the rear cable issue, with a vintage friction shifting set up? Thanks for your reply! road195
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11-20-21, 05:49 AM
#3
Senior Member
Without seeing the frame, I'll guess that you'll need full length housings. If there are no housings there now then you do have a puzzle on how to get them routed. I cannot explain in writing. I'd have to show you/figure it out in person, if it can be done.
I'm not a fan. Internals seem like a good idea for a new build, cool, flashy, trick. But they both keep dirt off the cable and keep moisture in. Expensive (labor and materials) when the cables get corroded and it all needs to be replaced. I would not own such a design. Sorry to rain.....
I'm not a fan. Internals seem like a good idea for a new build, cool, flashy, trick. But they both keep dirt off the cable and keep moisture in. Expensive (labor and materials) when the cables get corroded and it all needs to be replaced. I would not own such a design. Sorry to rain.....
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11-20-21, 06:34 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ok, the focus is on the rear derailleur cable. On external builds, the wire cable housing comes off the back, of the rear derailleur AND goes to a stop where the furling enters. So on a internal cable system the cable runs out, attaches and that’s it? I thought there’s a tension friction issue there to help with the down tube friction shifting. Thanks
11-20-21, 09:20 AM
#5
It's MY mountain
Originally Posted by road195
Ok, the focus is on the rear derailleur cable. On external builds, the wire cable housing comes off the back, of the rear derailleur AND goes to a stop where the furling enters. So on a internal cable system the cable runs out, attaches and that’s it? I thought there’s a tension friction issue there to help with the down tube friction shifting. Thanks
And none of those had housings on the shifter side.
So you route bare cable from the shifter, through the internal run, out the BB or chainstay or wherever the exit is, and you put the housing stop at the exit, or run bare cable to wherever the stop is, and housing from there to the derailleur. There's generally no issue with too much friction, but if you leave the cable liner on the cable internal section you can reduce some rattling noises.
11-20-21, 09:25 AM
#6
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@road195 - Do you have a Trek? There were some models with the RD cable routing was through the chain stay.
Pictures, pictures, pictures.
Pictures, pictures, pictures.
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11-20-21, 12:13 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Thanks, for all reply’s, no pictures as this is a ongoing purchase process. Bottom line, looks like as stated run cable straight back, hook up and ride. Frame Saver, saves the moisture fears. road195
11-20-21, 12:50 PM
#8
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Bikes: 82 Trek 710, 90 Trek 750, 86 Vitus, Nishiki Cervino, 1989 Bianchi CdI, 2 Nashbars, an Italian Steel MTB, Sears Spaceliner, and a 74 Schwinn Speedster. I also manage a fleet of Volcanic Patrol bikes, 83 of them.
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I have a Nishiki Cervino, its a 83 I think, that has internal cables for both front and rear derailleurs. It's not indexed. Because of the location of the shifter attachment, the only shifters that fit was Campy Victory friction shifters.
The cables enter the frame just forward of the shifters. I used cable liners on the inside of the frame to make the action smoother. Te original bottom bracket was loose bearing and had a steel tube insert instead of the plastic insert that is normally found on bottom brackets. I used a cartridge bearing bottom bracket instead so the insert wasn't necessary.
The front derailleur cable exits the frame at the rear of the bb shell and the rear derailleur exits at the rear of the chain stay.
I think you could use index depending on the attachment/braze-ons.
