I've recently acquired 2 Brooks saddles. One is like new, used but very clean and a tad flexible. The other is weather beaten, surface cracks, a fair amount of flex; but I believe there's life left in it. I am using the Proofide leather dressing. My question is on the adjusting nut. How tight is tight enough? They both have the threaded rod near the beginning or starting end so I assume neither has had or very little adjustment.in their life.

I think the consensus is "don't tighten it unless you absolutely have to".
This has been discussed many times, so I expect a search might pull up those discussions. ... or at least prove that there are a lot of different opinions??

Steve in Peoria
(never touched one of the adjusting nuts myself)

Yep, I've done some research. Mostly the posts and advice are for good to new saddles with break-in advice. I'll leave the good one alone. It's the beaten one I think will need adjustment. It sags quite a bit so maybe just a little tension to "tone" it up after the leather treatment is done.

I don't do this to Brooks very often but I have tightened Selle Anatomica a lot. For the older one, if you have put on a little Proofide, that's enough, since it's already cracked. On the SA I like to get the leather to make a smooth pair of straps from the cantle plate up to the front - smooth and supple but not tighter than that.

I have a herd of brooks saddles. The old advice about the nut is 'don't mess with it,' until you need to which is when the saddle starts to sag. This happens over time, usually years of riding and exposure to water. You can give it a turn or two and see how the leather will start to tighten.

I know the few times I have tightened a Brooks, a quarter turn was enough to notice, and just a bit more started to raise the center ridge. And it’s not clear to me that Brooks leather is elastic enough to spring back after being stretched, unlike Selle Anatomica. I would only tension it less than about 1/2 wrench flat (1/12 turn) at a time turn at a time, or ½ stroke with the little Brooks wrench.

Go easy on the Proofide. A little bit once or twice a year is plenty.

Unless the saddle is visibly sagging, there's no reason to tighten the tension nut. If you do need to tighten it, go slow, so you don't tear the leather. Maybe half a turn at a time, ride it a while, and check again for sag.

All good info to know. Thanks. I applied the Proofide on warm leather working by the woodstove with just a gentle heat no more than body heat. The good (newish) saddle just needed one application, similar to working with my work boots. The weathered one was "thirsty". It took about 4 applications using small amounts on the fingers letting it set for an hour between coats. The leather now has some body to it and is not greasy at all with no residual to buff and I think it's good as it's going to get.

On the underside I saw impressions where the leather sagged enough to contact the seat frame. I'm not heavy, Holding 160#
Maybe I can tension enough to keep it off the seat frame.

Bottom line for both the shackle bolt and the proofide, like everyone else has said, do this when necessary. If you're not sure it's necessary, it's not necessary. If it is necessary, go for it, but don't overdo it.


TLDR: When a saddle leaves the factory, the leather is under tension, which comes from the frame being a little bit "too small." The frame is a strong springy steel-- it will flex a fair amount but will not ("should not") take a permanent bend unless it takes a serious hit. That tension is often all the saddle will need, but if you ever have to ride the saddle while the leather is soaking wet, it will probably stretch permanently, and the tension will be lost. If the nut is loose enough that you can tighten it without a wrench, go for it. If the bolt is actually loose and rattling around, you can definitely take a wrench to it and tighten it until it's not rattling anymore.

As for proofide, if you ever have to ride the saddle in the rain, with wet pants, you will probably notice the surface of the leather looking dull and porous after it dries. That's when Proofide is necessary. But go easy....

Another thing to consider; my B17 Softened came with holes and lacing on the sides, something you might try if what you've done so far isn't enough. And where are our pics??

Ok here are some pictures. The first 2, the one in question, is a B66. It cleaned up very nice and the last application of Proofide left a finish similar to the 2nd newer one. A minor nut adjustment toned it up so it doesn't sag on the frame. If you look just above the shiny nut you can see the embossing in the leather from contacting the frame.



This 2nd is a Champion Flyer and seems much newer Only needed one application of Proofide and still pretty stiff. No nut adjustment needed at this time.