I think you could avoid the decals if you put it on the seat tube. I'm sure you wouldn't do this, but I'll say it anyway: Whatever you do, don't use RIVNUT's.

[MENTION=139746]sloar[/MENTION] - The stem is short enough that you might get by with routing the cables in front of the bar to minimize the bend to the rear cable. The front could be moved too and would not likely be negatively impacted. Function beats aesthetics nearly every time. At least for me on a bike in the rotation.

First off, nice bike! A Schwinn Paramount of similar vintage is my “Holy Grail” for a bike . I agree with others that the cable housings are too long. My F-I-L always had his long like that and it drove me crazy (perhaps he did it on purpose?). The OP’s end result looks much better. I’m always debating with myself on whether the cables should be routed in front of or behind the handle bars. I believe the “standard” is behind the bar but depending on stem reach, routing in front of the bar might result in less bend of the housing. I do have a couple of bikes set up that way. Speaking of “standards” seems to me that the bike shown in the #2 reply has the front brake operated by the right side brake lever . I do suppose that it could be a “mirror image” photo. I’ll concede to those who believe that it’s personal choice but if I set my bikes up that way, I wouldn’t let anyone else ride them! (I rarely do THAT anyway.)
RE: installing a bottle cage, I would definitely take all necessary steps to prevent damage to the paint. (And would never consider RivNuts on a bike of this caliber ). Handle bar or seat mounting strongly considered.
RE: drop bar position, bravo for the OP for holding fast to personal preference. Just to get it out there, I set mine up “old school” with the axis of the lower bar pointing at the rear axle. Just sayin’.

The cable arcs could be smaller.
I find this a balance, free unrestricted steering so I can ride hands off and not so short that when I lift my hands off the bar to shift or reach for a waterbottle that I catch my hand on the cable.

I don't like anything on the frame paint. So its either back of the saddle mount, or handlebar mount. Me I am going handlebar mount.

+10 cable length is fine, me I would be an inch or two shorter. But yours are fine.

Not sure what you see in my pic but front brake is on the left lever. The cables could probably be a little shorter, but turning left pulls on the rear cable a bit. Any shorter and it will pull the cable tight. I know I’ll never make a tight turn like that but it bothered me.

I was referring to the pic in the first reply i.e. #2 by sjx426. Yours are set up the way that I and most others have the brakes on their bicycles set up. Rear on right, front on left. I have read/heard that some folks that ride motorcycles set the brake levers opposite of the “standard” way because of the way the clutch and brake levers are set up on motorcycles.

I have a seat post double cage holder if you want it; Profile Design….Not very correct, but it’s water. You’d have to go to CIBA or send an agent….

I’m going to have a table at CIBA.

Perhaps I’ll stop by. Need a break from 1/2” of ice, 4” of snow, and expected 8-12” tonight.

This is the Minoura BH60 mount with VO retro cage,

I have evolved over the years on cable length and recently like the minimalist effect. It is kind of strange now that I look back on bikes I have that I built a few years ago and I think “I gotta cut those cables back a bit”. I rode those bikes for quite a while without thinking about it.

use a hi-e cage ....mounts cleanly with a single worm gear hoseclamp

lower bottle position improves your center of gravity = downtube

Just acquired one of those Minoura adapters, going to get the black and the billboard branding off and figure out what to put it on.

Daily driver has the front cycliq hanging right there so may not go on that, looks like a convoluted workaround in the making.