Man, I'm confused

Betwixt all the speculation, assumption, vague posts from the OP regarding steps taken to rectify, and some non-standard parts descriptions...

OP: when you write "wedge nut", do you mean the stem bolt? If so, have you completely removed it? If so, can you hear/feel the wedge moving around after removal of the stem bolt?

I feel like we're all proverbially grasping different parts of the elephant while blindfolded, and coming up with all manner of different ideas about what we've got in our hands.

DD

OP, please all are trying to help, but this is frustrating, Drillium Dude is asking the same question I asked a dozen posts ago. Maybe we have a semantics problem, could you please check out Park Tools website repair help for quill stems removal and use their vernacular to describe what is not working?

I assume that the long bolt has been removed completely, if not remove it and set it aside. Bounce the frame, can you hear the wedge nut bouncing around inside the head tube if not it may be frozen on the stem.
I would remove the wheel and the front brake, flip it over and take a look in there to see if the wedge bolt is loose if not it is still hung up inside of the fork tube and that may be where it may be binding.
You say it will rotate and move, without using a lot of force (not want to force it) will it move "down"? I add more lubricant from "below and then try moving it up and down.
Take your time this is a mechanical obstruction, not brain surgery.
Good Luck, Ben
rereading the thread [MENTION=9425]madpogue[/MENTION] already made similar comments

I would not do that. There is no need to remove the bolt completely.

Do what obrentharris (and no doubt others) said: loosen the bolt a few threads, put a piece of wood on top of the bolt, and whack it with a hammer to dislodge the wedge.

I guess I should have qualified this a bit more, my sense was the OP had already broken the wedge bolt loose because the stem was moving...So, yes, all are correct about the "soft " blow to the bolt, which I have used to break a wedge bolt loose when a stem is stuck etc.
If in fact the wedge was "already" loose (moving side to side) at the stem.....the way to confirm this would be "seeing" it at the bottom of the fork which is easier when removing the wheel and brake or "hearing" around bouncing in the tube.
If the bolt is in fact already loose and this can be "confirmed", then something else is causing the problem.
JM2C's, Ben

If the stem is turning as much as it is, it's unlikely that it's not dislodged. And if the stem is broken and being held together by the bolt / wedge nut, then it does need to be removed completely. At least, of the few broken stems I've encountered, I've had to remove the bolt to release not only the wedge, but the broken-off lower bit of the stem.

Dbl post

Totally OT, but this reminds me of some Lewis Carroll poem.

While anything is possible, I doubt it's broken.

Have we taken the wheel off and eyeballed it from the underside yet?

Thank you for comparing to Lewis Carol. Thats the way I write. Always have images in my mind. Might not suits everybody, but suits me.
Innit"?

Curiouser and curiouser......

So, I made a visit to the remain of the frame.

The wedge nut is out.
The wedge is stuck in. Wont move. Reapplied WD40.
Tried to screw the wedge nut in, but only 6mm screw in instead of 5cm. I more, I have to use some force.
I tapped the stem in and it must taken its place into the wedge as it wont turn either way, nor move now.

I will try tomorrow to tap on the wedge nut with a harmer and wood. Could not do it today. Daylight restriction applied.

Thanks you all for your help. Never had to fight against a stubborn wedge before. And I have 5 vintage bikes..
Just be patient if possible. Remember I am a newbie. Still learning.

So, I made a visit to the remain of the frame.

The wedge nut is out.
The wedge is stuck in. Wont move. Reapplied WD40.
Tried to screw the wedge nut in, but only 6mm screw in instead of 5cm. If more, I have to use some force.
I tapped the stem in and it must taken its place into the wedge as it wont turn either way, nor move now.

I will try tomorrow to tap on the wedge nut with a harmer and wood. Could not do it today. Daylight restriction applied.

Thanks you all for your help. Never had to fight against a stubborn wedge before. And I have 5 vintage bikes..
Just be patient if possible. Remember I am a newbie. Still learning.

How are you tapping on the wedge? From underneath? That might be making things worse.
If you have the wheel and the brake off, can you cast enough light into the steerer tube from underneath to get a photo from there?

Wait - how can the wedge be out and stuck at the same time? This really is curiouser and curiouser......

He wrote the "wedge nut" is out. But I think he means the bolt. I think.

Come on, guys. This particular stem has one bolt, one wedge (unless there is something hidden in there). He had removed the bolt, but he screwed it back in. It goes in 6mm now, but previously went in 5cm without having to force it. He tap-tap-tapped the stem, but not the bolt, and says he'll tap the bolt tomorrow. After he tapped the stem, he says the stem no longer moves.

It sounds like the wedge is still stuck to the stem, so when he taps the bolt tomorrow, it will hopefully give the desired result.

Connoisseur, does that look like an accurate plot summary so far?

Well that would change.... er.... everything. And it would, astonishingly, make many of the posts make more sense.

Well, the wedge is a nut, so it appeared that the OP was simply using the two terms interchangeably.

This is definitely the time to start observing from underneath, as has been suggested. If the stem will move at all, it would be good to know if the wedge moves with it, and this can be observed from underneath.

BTW, WD40 is of little to no use here. It's not a penetrant, and is a mediocre lubricant. It's actually a water displacer (thus the name). Something like PB-Blaster or Kroil, or even a degreasing solvent, would have more effect.

Technically I think both could be considered correct...that is, unless we are playing golf, then a wedge would be a sub-iron.....This thread has become so protracted and confusing that I am not sure about anything any more.....other than I want to see the outcome...errrr, it come out.
Best, Ben

I think that the butler did it......noobinsf, let's hope that you are correct and it comes out easy peezy for the OP sake. Waiting for the final report in the AM.

I know, I'm invested in this now, too!

Is it possible that an over tightened stem bolt deformed the stem bottom with the wedge and the wedge got stuck?

Maybe the inner steerer ovaled out?

C - stem bolt out, or screw in by 6-7mm
D - wedge stuck in
A - Quill stem was moving, now stuck with wedge.

Yesterday tap on C -bolt with rubber mallet no change.
Today will tap on C -bolt with harmer and wood.

I glad to be some sort of amusement for some.
I'm laughing at it myself with some sort of frustration..
I could seen that the wedge is stuck but I did not 😇😭

Will let you know when home.

OP,
I suspect if the bolt is still connected to the wedge "nut" and you have loosened the bolt enough, a hard blow with a hammer should dislodge it. I am glad that you found the diagram that you posted, it will be helpful if further discussion is necessary......Wishing you much success.
FYI.......A wedge can also be a nut if the wedge is tapped and threaded to accept a bolt....




Best, Ben