Simplex dropout modification....
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Simplex dropout modification....
So...... firstly, this Valgan is not a rare/valuable/sought-after frame, so I don't care at all about modifying it. It's waaaaaay too small for me, but I want to keep it around for visitors to ride. Problem is, visitors are highly unlikely to be down with friction shifting, and even DT shifters might be pushing it, so I want indexing on this one. Yeah, yeah, the horror. But I can't see how the dropout modification will give me a useable b-screw stop- there doesn't seem to be enough material to 'catch' the screw. Am I missing something here? I suppose a claw is a possibility, but I kind of want to keep the fattest tires I can on this one, and that means having the axle all the way back in the drop-outs.
dropout from the outside-
dropout from the inside....
what would the b-screw 'catch' on...?
dropout from the outside-
dropout from the inside....
what would the b-screw 'catch' on...?
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You will, of course, rot in hel... , and I'll see you there.
You can grind a stop that is enough for a Campy NR, which does not have a B screw.
This was done by a previous owner to a PX-10 frame.
You can grind a stop that is enough for a Campy NR, which does not have a B screw.
This was done by a previous owner to a PX-10 frame.
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Last edited by Schreck83; 05-21-23 at 01:14 PM. Reason: manners
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Why go to this much work if it's just for visitors? Sell this and find something you think is suitable.
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Also, cuz it's a neat (and pretty) bike, and in spite of not being notable/valuable, it's got a really nice (and light) Super Vitus 971 frame. And I have the shifters, RD, freewheel for a DT indexed setup, etc- just trying to make it work.
(yes, I know the FD is too high...)
Last edited by ehcoplex; 05-21-23 at 10:17 AM.
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I've bent the B-screw "bent tab" outcropping on the stop plate to better aim the tip of the screw at the minimal notch I cut into the hanger.
This is the bike, though you can't see the modifications:
This is the bike, though you can't see the modifications:
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This is heartbreaking.
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Regarding using a hanger: If the tire is so fat you need to locate the axle at the back of the dropout aren't you going to have to deflate the tire every time you want to remove the wheel?
Brent
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...have you considered using something that is not indexed, but similar to Simplex retrofriction or maybe Suntour ratcheting shifters ? Most of the people I know do OK with those.
...have you considered using something that is not indexed, but similar to Simplex retrofriction or maybe Suntour ratcheting shifters ? Most of the people I know do OK with those.
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No, it sqeezes between the stays enough to get it out- but if it's moved forward enough for a claw the side-to-side clearance is really tight...
#12
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I had a similar discussion at a bike shop pit stop during Thursday's bike to work day. I was riding the 1959 Capo, with its original Campag. downtube friction shifters, and we wondered whether friction shifting is a lost art, like driving a car with a clutch pedal. (I reminded him of the joke that my sons claim that third pedal is an anti-theft device in their Audis and BMWs.) It wasn't that long ago that bike shops routinely taught new owners how to friction or ratchet shift, using either a shop stand or one of those Schwinn countertop shift demo devices. (OK, I admit a lot of people just threw both levers forward, rode in small-small until the rear cog and/or the chain wore out, and then came in complaining about chain skip. I wonder if these people are just as shiftless with indexed systems.)
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#13
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Well, we in the C&V world are in a bubble, and the vast majority of cyclists (of all levels) are accustomed to indexed shifting now. Yeah, if I were going to be riding this bike it'd have Retrofrictions and an SLJ GT RD! But it's not for me to ride, so i want to make it as easy as possible (because dealing with the hills around here is going to be tough enough for visitors)!
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I took my 13 year old granddaughter out on my wife's Bridgestone without indexed shifting. It shouldn't take long for your visitors to "grind 'em until they find 'em" and get the hang of riding a vintage bike. And I rebuilt a Schwinn with a yellow band kickback hub for a gentleman that gave it ti his daughter. She had that down on the first ride. Just sayin'...
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Stick with your plan but don't overthink it.
Get a derailleur extension in silver. Bolt it on. Few will bother to notice and you throw any sized derailleur cage at it, use mega cog freewheel / cassy etc.. Typical $6 shipped. Don't waste your money with Wolftooth as its all spit out of Asian factories.
Get a derailleur extension in silver. Bolt it on. Few will bother to notice and you throw any sized derailleur cage at it, use mega cog freewheel / cassy etc.. Typical $6 shipped. Don't waste your money with Wolftooth as its all spit out of Asian factories.
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Stick with your plan but don't overthink it.
Get a derailleur extension in silver. Bolt it on. Few will bother to notice and you throw any sized derailleur cage at it, use mega cog freewheel / cassy etc.. Typical $6 shipped. Don't waste your money with Wolftooth as its all spit out of Asian factories.
Get a derailleur extension in silver. Bolt it on. Few will bother to notice and you throw any sized derailleur cage at it, use mega cog freewheel / cassy etc.. Typical $6 shipped. Don't waste your money with Wolftooth as its all spit out of Asian factories.
#17
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I think you might have to tap the hangar threads along with filing the tab or adding the extension.
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Yeah, and I'm wondering, if there isn't enough 'material' on the original hangar to file a stop for the b-screw to hit, will there be enough for the little stopper bump on the extension to hit? But the extension is cheap enough to just get and see (and if it doesn't work won't be a terrible thing to have in the toolbox for the future..).
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