When a threaded steerer is too long...
#26
Senior Member


Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 21,812
Likes: 3,719
I was thinking of Steven Maasland's Maasi. How'd ya know?
I was surprised at how easily the fenders went on the bike. (With plastic fantastic adjustable fenders I've always just stopped fiddling when the fenders stopped rubbing the tires.
) I'm sure a lot of the credit for that goes to Doug for proper placement of the three mounting points.
I was surprised at how easily the fenders went on the bike. (With plastic fantastic adjustable fenders I've always just stopped fiddling when the fenders stopped rubbing the tires.
) I'm sure a lot of the credit for that goes to Doug for proper placement of the three mounting points.
#27
framebuilder


Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,788
Likes: 2,710
From: Niles, Michigan
There is one more factor in this discussion that hasn't been fully brought up yet. And that is where the transition on the steerer where the threads start compared to where the top of the head tube is located. Ideally the threads start right at the top of the head tube so that the expander bolt on the stem will be below the threads. As already mentioned the expander can possibly bulge the steerer in the area where the threads are located since there is less material there.
For example on the frame Skip made in my class, we chose a steerer that its length placed the transition just a little higher than the top of the head tube. Then Skp cut a bit off the bottom so where the threads started was right at the top of the head tube. This is one of those refinements custom builders can do to help future proof the frame to future fittings. This way when the stem needs to be raised (as the rider ages), it is not in danger of the expander bolt getting in the threaded area.
For example on the frame Skip made in my class, we chose a steerer that its length placed the transition just a little higher than the top of the head tube. Then Skp cut a bit off the bottom so where the threads started was right at the top of the head tube. This is one of those refinements custom builders can do to help future proof the frame to future fittings. This way when the stem needs to be raised (as the rider ages), it is not in danger of the expander bolt getting in the threaded area.
#28
Full Member

Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 293
Likes: 258
From: Carmichael, CA
Bikes: '72 Gitane TDF, '73 Gitane TDF, '83 Centurion Pro Tour 15, '74 Raleigh International,'86 Team Fuji, Midrange Bertin, '22 Mercian Vincetore, something called Alpigiano and a couple of Steve Rex's
Cable stop
I've just built 2 bikes where I barely had enough steerer to put a new headset on. Now I have the opposite problem. I am using Paul Mini-Moto V brakes on this bike and do not need the cantilever brake cable stop, which is quite thick. Without it I can not snug the locknut down. The fork is a real nice old Ritchey that's even signed by its maker (!) so I'm a bit loathe to cut it. What does one do?













