Please!!! Not another thread filled with slurs and insults!!! Keep it civil, kind and diplomatic!!!!

Nor did they punch-out the hole rows after they had put the cover on the saddle frame. Pulling and twisting to gain access to the under-neath is not optimal, especially for dried leather from (Sturmey era) 1980's.

On that bridge-plate saddle, did you add a layer of leather to the top? I'm guessing so, and that would explain your line of bolts along the bottom edge between the cantle and the plate, and use of longer bolts rather than rivets to securethe top to the cantle. Given all that theorizing, how does it feel? And what modern model of Brooks would have the same cantle width as yours?

I have laced old Brooks saddles to prevent the skirts from flaring out. Two holes per side is plenty for that, not too close to the sides. I've also had luck soaking the whole thing in room-temperature water for a few hours, then reshaping the saddle, with straps and stuffing it with newspaper as it dries. That can work surprisingly well.

"Barbaric" was the nicest word that came to mind. Please feel free to substitute any other word that might make you feel more comfortable.

Cheers
Charlie

Pastorbobnlnh, don't ruffle your feathers. Your work shows exquisite craftsmanship and unquestionable functionality, even if I do not like the aesthetic choices you made. They are yours to make, after all.

Regarding those saddles above, I really like the idea of using coins instead of washers but the workmanship is not good and the protruding Allen heads are just not okay by me (potentially hurtful/injurious to the rider). Even a shallow pan head or a true rivet would be better (smooth surface).

I work in an arena where critique is a necessary and welcome thing. We do not fool around and we don't take it personally. Critique is a learning opportunity. It is neither uncivil, unkind nor insulting. It may not be diplomatic but diplomacy is way down on the list of priorities if it gets in the way of clear, concise critique.

Different people have different contexts.

Brooks refuse to sell leather skins. They sell everything else as spares except the important bit.
The metal bridge is a feature on the Swallow model. In the photo I used a piece of aluminium and simple bolts ,nuts and washers. It works just fine.
Riveting the nose cone is difficult as two of the rivets are horizontal and a very solid one-of-a-kind jig is needed.
Soaking leather in water and stretching works well if you tighten a little at a time and water doesn't seem to weaken the leather.
Use the dubbing sparingly, a teaspoon every 12 months is plenty.

I'd consider Forstner bits if they're sharp. Clean holes.

I have Forstners, too. Forstner bits don't come small enough, that I know of, the brad point bits do. Both cut on the rim.