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Campy spindle confusion

Old 10-24-23, 11:28 AM
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Campy spindle confusion

Both say 70 which means Italian

one is 70-SS
one is 70-SSA

SSA is 2mm longer, making me wonder if it is post to 78 to make room for the new FD lip.

but check out the race locations!!

what the heck

which do I use on an early 70s Derosa?
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Old 10-24-23, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Robvolz
Both say 70 which means Italian

one is 70-SS
one is 70-SSA

SSA is 2mm longer, making me wonder if it is post to 78 to make room for the new FD lip.

but check out the race locations!!

what the heck

which do I use on an early 70s Derosa?
the control will be the date code on the back of the crank.

I do not see any images but one no doubt one is not record, but a subordinate group, no reverse rifling so therefore the bearings are more outboard.
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Old 10-24-23, 11:52 AM
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The crank I’m using is a 74. <4>
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Old 10-24-23, 11:57 AM
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For what it's worth, "SSA" is Croce d'Aune.

Here's my Campy spindle cheat sheet:

Italian 70mm BB:
Double -Pre CPSC: 113mm. Post: 115.5mm
Triple - Pre: 118mm. Post: 124mm

English/French 68mm BB:
Double - Pre: 112. Post: 114.5
Triple - Pre:117. Post: 123

Spc -- ≻ c - record
Ssa -- ≻ croce d'aune
Ssb -- ≻ chorus
Ssg -- ≻ athena
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Old 10-24-23, 12:24 PM
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70-SS-120 is the part, note that these came two versions, thin cup “record” and thick cup
“Nuovo Record” as we called them way back.
‘you are OK as long as the spindle and cups match.

overall length will be 112-113mm- longer toward the drive side.
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Old 10-24-23, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Robvolz
Both say 70 which means Italian

one is 70-SS
one is 70-SSA

SSA is 2mm longer, making me wonder if it is post to 78 to make room for the new FD lip.

but check out the race locations!!

what the heck

which do I use on an early 70s Derosa?
It depends on the crank and cups. Campagnolo bottom brackets prior to the cartridge era are a hot mess. Perhaps this can help:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TZw...usp=drive_link
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Old 10-24-23, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage
70-SS-120 is the part, note that these came two versions, thin cup “record” and thick cup
“Nuovo Record” as we called them way back.
‘you are OK as long as the spindle and cups match.
There's also the pre- and post-CPSC crank arm changes that affect axle choice.
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Old 10-24-23, 12:30 PM
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Wow guys, thanks!!

I’ve a set of cups w and w/o rifling



I never knew how to tell the difference between thin and reg cups.
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Old 10-24-23, 12:33 PM
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Spindle


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Old 10-24-23, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Robvolz
I never knew how to tell the difference between thin and reg cups.
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Old 10-24-23, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Robvolz
Wow guys, thanks!!

I’ve a set of cups w and w/o rifling



I never knew how to tell the difference between thin and reg cups.
those both have the rifling.
‘the fixed cup is circa 1975, still pre CPSC. Why? Who knows, a running change. Maybe they mismatched some and the extra machining was a save.
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Old 10-24-23, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Robvolz
Spindle


go to Harbor Fright and purchase a digital caliper, or go big and buy a Mitutoyo.
a tape suitable for a tailor is not the way to go.
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Old 10-24-23, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
There's also the pre- and post-CPSC crank arm changes that affect axle choice.
correct, but 1974 date code is before the added dimension between the big ring and the backside of the arm, the room for the CPSC lip to save us from catastrophe.
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Old 10-24-23, 12:50 PM
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You are correct. Usually use one at the Co-op. I happen to be in my kitchen away from the stuff I need.

Guys, seriously. Thank you for taking the time.
Robert
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Old 10-25-23, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
It depends on the crank and cups. Campagnolo bottom brackets prior to the cartridge era are a hot mess. Perhaps this can help:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TZw...usp=drive_link
I regularly used this doc and even made me a summarized scheme pinned in my garage…
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Old 10-25-23, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Robvolz
I never knew how to tell the difference between thin and reg cups.
Try mating a thick-walled cup with a spindle designed to go with a thin-walled cup. That'll learn you right quick. I suspect the same is true for vice-versa, but I've never wrestled with that one.

My first Eroica bike (early 1960s Bianchi Competizione - literally a barn find c.1974 that I dragged around for all the intervening years) had the 74mm bottom bracket that some Italians inflicted on the world for a few years. I learned the hard way that the thin-wall-compatible spindle would juuuuust barely not work with a thick-wall cup. (It wasn't just me - my go-to C&V-knowledgeable shop owner/mechanic also tried and couldn't get it to work.) Adding to the problem, the spindle required 3/16" bearings. I just about drove myself nutso trying to thin-walled cups for 3/16th' bearings. It's almost as crazy-making as trying to date a pre-1978 Cinelli by the serial number.

The spindle was chewed up, but another was available. Getting the bearings was not an problem. But I could not find a thin-walled Italian-threaded 3/16"bearing cup for love or money - believe me, I tried. I ultimately gave up and put in a Phil Wood with normal Italian-threaded cups/retainers.. Problem solved. Since I did not build the bike up with the kind of components on it when it left the store (I built it up with parts the original owner might have upgraded to over the years), I told myself that my mythical original owner got tired of dealing with the chewed up BB spindle (it was) fifteen years in and installed a Phil. I rode it twice at Eroica, where I rediscovered just how awful Universal 51 brakes were/are. I also discovered that I really can't comfortably ride a 59cm ctc frame - that's 3 to 5cm smaller than anything else I ride now. .
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Old 10-26-23, 08:10 PM
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JackJohn that's a great chart - thanks for posting it. I saved it for reference.

/markp
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