Hello All. Wanted to ask if there is an alternate tool or method to remove the early style drive side bottom bracket bearing cup, Maybe more readily available/ even less costly than this Park brand bottom bracket tool? Anyone use just a good well machined adjustable wrench?( got this pic online)

Yes, you can buy a generic one for half of what the Parks tool would cost you. I just checked on Amazon and it was $15 bucks.

Hey, Thanks so much Abdon! I'll take a quick look.

Yes, on occasion that will work. If not, I have the homemade tool that Sheldon describes here:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

I use a 12" or 15" adjustable held snug with a big bolt and washers I used a 5/8" coarse thread bolt with a couple of washers. Works almost every time...


Remove bb spindle. Install non-drive side cup three quarters of the way in. With washer on bolt head, slide through the cups. Fit the adjustable to the drive side cup flat. Important: The jaws on the wrench must NOT be rounded. With the wrench adjusted as best possible to the flats, finger tighten the 5/8" nut. With caution, attempt to twist the cup free. Double check to ensure the wrench jaws remain tight or you run the risk of rounding off the cup flats. Best of luck.

I just bought used, us made, wrenches. 32mm and 36mm. I found it worth it since the also work on headset locking nuts without marring or slipping.

^^^^^. Fully agree but also caution that you must use a very good quality adjustable wrench due to the high torque that may be needed. I have found that a value priced or even a worn expensive wrench can cam off the cup or even distort the soft metal jaws of the wrench then cam off and damage the cup. However, a very good quality adjustable wrench can cost more than the Park tool or other such high quality BB tools. A lower quality purpose made wrench “inspired by” the Park tool can cam off the cup too if the metal is softer or tolerances too great.

Even with a nice, old school Crescent 14” industrial adjustable wrench, locked on as shown above, I’ve had to use a pipe to get enough torque. Be careful with that first 20deg of rotation.

I have had good outcomes with the Sheldon Brown assembly referenced above too. I use two socket wrenches, one on each end of the bolt/nut.

If you put your location on your Bio someone close by might offer to help at times like this.

I've got that tool, but usually use a monkey wrench instead. Smooth jaws only.

Turns out a big 32 mm is also needed on some motorcycles. I found decent quality 32mm cheap on Amazon.

Honestly the Park tool shown (and clone, 100% as effective) is worth owning. Sometimes those things can be stuck worse than a curse and as long as you can lock it in place with a bolt and washers it allows you to safely apply the most force in the most controlled fashion. I do have a large wrench that would work, the dedicated tool and the way it grabs all around wins.

There are some tools where it pays to get a Park tool branded one, this isn't one of them.

very nice 👍 Keeps the wrench aligned and locked in place. LOL, stopped by HF looked at their cheapest wrench 12 bucks! For a 12" wrench. From what I remember surprisedly their adjustable wrenches look much improved. Jaws are nicely machined tolerances seem much tighter combined with your setup should work out quite well.

found this after searching for a couple hours purchased this on ebay the original tool by the looks of it. also has the spanner portion for the right side locknut. 15.00 but of course tax +shipping.

Mount it in a vise on the horizontal plane, and turn the whole bike.

Pleasantly surprised here, this is one of the tools that you absolutely not skimp on and the Sugino is the best IMO, especially the hook end.

I have the first one I ever bought 50 years ago and is always my go to, to this day.

Used correctly this is the most effective one and as stated above should be secured in place for the fixed cup if the cup is tight or stuck at all.

The hook side takes some finesse but is the best one, it can wrap around the lock ring for a very secure grip but is kind of spring loaded in the curve so it must be centered very well when you lean in.

I have them all, Campy, Park, old, new, generic, etc, this is the only one I ever reach for.

Cheap and make-do tools are the path to purchasing new parts. The Sugino tool is a good one and I've used one with the washer things for decades. The certainly superior Campagnolo tool found in the tool sets and VAR tools are mega expensive tho there are none that I would want more.

I have the Var tools but also purchased a $20 36mm wrench from Menards (a local variety store specializing in building products). It is about 20"long and provides all the torque needed to break a stuck cup free. Smiles, MH

316 Stainless nut! Fancy!

The Campagolo #793/A or VAR #30 are the best tools for removing a stubborn fixed cup. Beside the "big bolt" friction-type method described above, Stein tool makes a clamp for the common stamped-type tools from Park, Sugino, etc.:

https://steintool.com/portfolio-item...-wrench-clamp/

https://www.rivbike.com/products/hz-fixed-cup-wrench

Rivendell made a new one that is reasonable.

Awesome Merziac at least 50+ years wrenching I imagine!?pretty much been wrenching almost a life time? We could be around the same age give or take i'm 67. Think I may have been some where around 8 working on my first Schwinn Stingray. Retired HD eq mech here. I like your same idea securely fixing the wrench in position leaving both hands free for leverage. Same concept as randyjawa's

It's thin and has an open end - I'd rather use a ring type one.

You can also use the Sheldon Brown method which is handy for a hard to remove fixed cup. Scroll down the page a bit.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

I have used top end vintage American made adjust wrenches because I have them, But most 2 foot length precision adjust 2-90 mm buster wrenches should work nice to have worth buying nice American vintage $100 Amazon good enough $30. A nicer cheaper where ever what ever copy or specific spanner or set under $75 worth it if nice . Figure your labor is worth at least $15 hour save a couple hours pays your cost and you still have the tools so it may just be time to up your tool game. You can always use nicer tools on other bikes and stuff. There is no N+1 limit on nice tools in my book.

JohnDhompson,Thank you so much for the link. Surprised specialty tools still exist for these old bikes