Nothing new here, but I was just reminded of this photo gallery on Chris Kvale's website:
https://www.chriskvalecycles.com/new-page-1
They appear to be in chronological order starting with the oldest, a 1976. Whole lotta beauty there!

I will paste in one pic here, without permission, hope he forgives me. Can you see what's odd about this 1010b dropout?

Hmm, the adjuster seems to be there, but no hole from the rear! That’s kinda magic.

Blind? Jim

If you were to have several of those in different sizes that would do it just fine, use the size you need. Otherwise the sticking bit usually bends by the end of the week

Well he needs glasses but I wouldn't go that far.

Oh you mean the adjuster hole, right.
Yeah capping that off with braze would be easy while you're already brazing on that dropout, but I'd worry about filler wicking too far in, making you chase the thread with a bottoming tap afterward. So maybe he welded the hole shut first, since that won't flow down the hole. Sounds a bit finicky however you do it, for a somewhat debateable benefit, but I do like the look. And you'll never have to worry about bending that piece of the screw that normally sticks out the back. Depressingly common fate for dropout adjusters.

Loctite on the screw threads to keep it in adjustment? Someone, I think Shimano, had M3 screws with a teensy little groove milled lengthwise, which then has some "nylock" material pressed in the groove to make adjuster screws that don't vibrate loose. Anyone know, is that a standard industrial screw or was it something proprietary to Shimano?

https://nylok.com/pre-applied-proces...-pellet-strip/

It's sort of special, but not uncommon. Jim

Cool! Thanks for the link, it's a keeper.

McMaster Carr has them!

Gosh, 20? Years ago there was a bike shop in San Pedro that had a Kvale frame set for sale on consignment I think, $950. NOS, My size close enough, was white….did not really want a white bike.
that shop then moved to OC.
( and I own two white bikes, and still really do not like the extra upkeep )
the appearance of the frame was very clean and tidy, restrained graphics, like an early 1970’s DeRosa.
time marches on.

The blind hole is an interesting detail. When I want to move the axle back I just buy shorter fasteners and springs to keep the protrusion aft short.

No idea what the easiest method was for Mr. Kvale, but I would try just threading in a M3(?) screw in a few turns after applying some JB Weld to the threads. After it cures, just cut the screw flush.

Whatever the merits, it does look a bit cleaner than the usual.

Steve in Peoria

He really does gorgeous old-school work. If I had a bunch of spare cash lying around, he'd be on my short list for a custom frameset.

I met him at a trade show and saw his cutaway samples. A guy I worked for that used to build frames with Mike Appel believes Chris Kvale is the finest lugged steel builder in the US. I would buy that. Incredible attention to detail.

I don't know how any of you know that in the 1970's he and his brother set the record for cycling across America. Of course not the support that Race Across America have today. Had him some work for me. His shop is as impeccable as his lug work. I've thought about him building me a touring bike but I hardly do enough bike camping to justify it.

So you'd have to remove the wheel to adjust, install wheel, check alignment, rinse and repeat? Aesthetics approved, but feels a bit like form over function. I guess once it's adjusted it shouldn't need to be changed...in theory.

You can get exactly the same effect by using LockTite. Just deposit a drop on the thread and wait for it to dry completely...then screw in the adjuster.
Been doing it for decades.