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Campag Victory long-cage conversion - pics

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Campag Victory long-cage conversion - pics

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Old 12-18-23 | 04:10 PM
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Campag Victory long-cage conversion - pics

EDIT damm, wrong forum.

Took a cage from a broken Shimano XC and made a mounting plate as neither the pivot bolts nor the spring hole were the same; said plate fixed to the long cage with 4 stainless screws.
On top, the long cage plate, below the original Campag one:




The Victory has a stop adjustment widget that
a) breaks; and
b) is a bad idea anyway - you have to remove the mech from the frame to change stop positions.
It's inside the knuckle and has teeth to set the position.
It breaks because it's made of some sort of alloy only a bit stronger than cheese.
Here's the broken on in situ:



So I made a different insert that has an external screw for adjustment; turned a ring and sawed/filed a bit to silver-solder to the ring, drilled and tapped for a screw
Here are the (broken) original and the one I made - the section that goes in where the teeth are has no teeth, instead it fills the space as it does not have to move:





The adjustment screw:



And on the mech:


Last edited by oneclick; 12-18-23 at 04:20 PM.
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Old 12-18-23 | 08:49 PM
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From: Pac NW

Bikes: several Eddy Merz (ride like Eddy, braze like Jim!)

That is pretty freaking cool!!

Which RD is that? The 980??

Clean set up.
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Old 12-18-23 | 10:27 PM
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Love it.


How'd you make the mounting plate?
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Old 12-18-23 | 10:44 PM
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Nice hack. Those Victory with stepped stop is a PITA. But, its better than not having any, such as the Triomphe.
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Old 12-18-23 | 11:13 PM
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In the model of how Tullio did early prototyping no doubt.
I would consider using a stainless steel set screw, Allen head or slot, maybe a drop of loctite blue if necessary.

the broken cast piece is no doubt zamak ( a zinc alloy ) same material that the upper Rally body was cast from… one would think with the preceding issues they would have tossed that material aside.
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Old 12-19-23 | 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by repechage
In the model of how Tullio did early prototyping no doubt.
I would consider using a stainless steel set screw, Allen head or slot, maybe a drop of loctite blue if necessary.
I do have m3 setscrews in stainless, but I made a brass screw as if it broke or got stuck from corrosion it would be easier to get out.
I do also like the look of brass.

Were I to make another it would have more metal in the threaded part so it could have a slot for a bit of poly to stop it changing.
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Old 12-19-23 | 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
How'd you make the mounting plate?
If you mean the round bit screwed to the cage plate, on a lathe but the holes were by hand.
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Old 12-19-23 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by oneclick
If you mean the round bit screwed to the cage plate, on a lathe but the holes were by hand.
Ah. I was kinda hoping it was some sort of T-nut or other part you repurposed.


https://www.mcmaster.com/products/nu...hread-size~m6/

Last edited by Kontact; 12-19-23 at 07:57 AM.
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Old 12-19-23 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by oneclick
I do have m3 setscrews in stainless, but I made a brass screw as if it broke or got stuck from corrosion it would be easier to get out.
I do also like the look of brass.

Were I to make another it would have more metal in the threaded part so it could have a slot for a bit of poly to stop it changing.
Different aesthetic approach
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