Campag Victory long-cage conversion - pics
#1
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Campag Victory long-cage conversion - pics
EDIT damm, wrong forum.
Took a cage from a broken Shimano XC and made a mounting plate as neither the pivot bolts nor the spring hole were the same; said plate fixed to the long cage with 4 stainless screws.
On top, the long cage plate, below the original Campag one:

The Victory has a stop adjustment widget that
a) breaks; and
b) is a bad idea anyway - you have to remove the mech from the frame to change stop positions.
It's inside the knuckle and has teeth to set the position.
It breaks because it's made of some sort of alloy only a bit stronger than cheese.
Here's the broken on in situ:

So I made a different insert that has an external screw for adjustment; turned a ring and sawed/filed a bit to silver-solder to the ring, drilled and tapped for a screw
Here are the (broken) original and the one I made - the section that goes in where the teeth are has no teeth, instead it fills the space as it does not have to move:


The adjustment screw:

And on the mech:
Took a cage from a broken Shimano XC and made a mounting plate as neither the pivot bolts nor the spring hole were the same; said plate fixed to the long cage with 4 stainless screws.
On top, the long cage plate, below the original Campag one:

The Victory has a stop adjustment widget that
a) breaks; and
b) is a bad idea anyway - you have to remove the mech from the frame to change stop positions.
It's inside the knuckle and has teeth to set the position.
It breaks because it's made of some sort of alloy only a bit stronger than cheese.
Here's the broken on in situ:

So I made a different insert that has an external screw for adjustment; turned a ring and sawed/filed a bit to silver-solder to the ring, drilled and tapped for a screw
Here are the (broken) original and the one I made - the section that goes in where the teeth are has no teeth, instead it fills the space as it does not have to move:


The adjustment screw:

And on the mech:
Last edited by oneclick; 12-18-23 at 04:20 PM.
#5
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In the model of how Tullio did early prototyping no doubt.
I would consider using a stainless steel set screw, Allen head or slot, maybe a drop of loctite blue if necessary.
the broken cast piece is no doubt zamak ( a zinc alloy ) same material that the upper Rally body was cast from… one would think with the preceding issues they would have tossed that material aside.
”fresh thinking, young minds, condemned to repeat mistakes”
I would consider using a stainless steel set screw, Allen head or slot, maybe a drop of loctite blue if necessary.
the broken cast piece is no doubt zamak ( a zinc alloy ) same material that the upper Rally body was cast from… one would think with the preceding issues they would have tossed that material aside.
”fresh thinking, young minds, condemned to repeat mistakes”
#6
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Joined: Feb 2020
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I do also like the look of brass.
Were I to make another it would have more metal in the threaded part so it could have a slot for a bit of poly to stop it changing.
#8
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/nu...hread-size~m6/
Last edited by Kontact; 12-19-23 at 07:57 AM.
#9
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 21,876
Likes: 3,757
I do have m3 setscrews in stainless, but I made a brass screw as if it broke or got stuck from corrosion it would be easier to get out.
I do also like the look of brass.
Were I to make another it would have more metal in the threaded part so it could have a slot for a bit of poly to stop it changing.
I do also like the look of brass.
Were I to make another it would have more metal in the threaded part so it could have a slot for a bit of poly to stop it changing.








