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Originally Posted by easyupbug
(Post 23158984)
It is acetone or in some brands a less effective remover. I use pure acetone to finally clean the tube prior to Rema, works well.
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Originally Posted by Pompiere
(Post 23159473)
Something I have noticed, is that matching the tube size to the tire helps reduce the number of failed patches. When the tube has to stretch to fill the inside of the tire, it puts more stress on the patch and they start to pull away. I use the skinny tubes in my 25 mm tires and wider ones in the 28 and 32 mm tires.
I always use a kitchen timer to make sure the glue in thoroughly dry. I have also made patches out of old tubes, as well as rejoining the ends of a rubber rim strip. When gluing two pieces of rubber (vs. a patch), I put glue on both surfaces and let it dry before joining them together. Those old Camel heat vulcanizing patches were the best, although I don't think they made any small enough for bike tires. My parents owned a truck stop in the 1970s and I put a lot of them on truck inner tubes. The second-hand smoke from one patch was probably equivalent to a pack of cigarettes.:twitchy: |
I doubt Rema fluid is available in my country. And I can never bring it down on thd plane. I should do some looking around though.
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I go full Hank Hill and sand thoroughly in multiple directions, let the cement dry dry-dry, and after patching I stick it in a c clamp between a couple round-cornered pieces of planed-flat wood for a day or so.
no issues. |
Originally Posted by seedsbelize2
(Post 23164641)
I doubt Rema fluid is available in my country. And I can never bring it down on thd plane. I should do some looking around though.
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Originally Posted by zandoval
(Post 23163484)
In case you are wondering.... https://youtu.be/r9hMSVQcDSA
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Originally Posted by RCMoeur
(Post 23164010)
You misunderstand.
I was describing the follow-up post-patching check, not the initial bubble check. On the first pass, yes, I go all the way around and clearly mark every discovered hole. If a tube has more than two holes, I usually discard it as the economics of patching goes way down (I consider Slime a hole for this evaluation, as it can temporarily mask holes and gum up valves). Exceptions can be made for uncommon or hard-to-find tubes. |
Recycle? They come in handy for wrapping when grafting trees and adding supports. Wrapped the bike rack to protect against accidental rear door opening. There is a thread on here somewhere.
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 23166853)
I was being facetious and my joke fell flat. Sorry
I put far more patches on a tube before I discard it. It’s not that expensive for the patch and job ($0.75 to $1.25 per patch) but putting more patches on keeps the tube out of the waste stream. Since rubber really isn’t recyclable, any amount that you can keep out of the waste stream is better. 30 is probably too many but 2 is too few. :D The "more than two" is typically at one time, as I figure at so much per patch + my time that putting 3 or more patches on at once isn't efficient. But if the tube already has 8 good patches and I add one or two more, that's no biggie. (here is where an economist would come bursting in and say "There's no difference!!" This is why we don't invite them.) :) |
Originally Posted by RCMoeur
(Post 23164206)
When a tube of vulcanizing fluid is opened and used on the road, I typically will replace it in the bike's patch kit with an unopened tube when I get home, and place the opened tube in the home patching supplies for use.
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Jacquie is a charmer...
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Originally Posted by curbtender
(Post 23167391)
Jacquie is a charmer...
Charlie Cunningham selling unique spoke machine to support care | Bicycle Retailer and Industry News |
Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 23158706)
Inquiring minds want to know--do you tear off the thin plastic outer-most layer on the Rema patches?
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Originally Posted by NJgreyhead
(Post 23169747)
I just noticed that the Rema instructions show removal of the outer plastic as the last step in the process.
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 23169905)
Yes but that step can be skipped. I’m not a fan of fishing small bits of plastic out of the tire on the next flat so I remove the plastic but nothing is harmed by leaving it in place.
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Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 23170872)
This is good to know. Removing the plastic has the risk of peeling the patch up. I am now good at it, but I have to be careful. Waiting until the patch has worked in an inflated tire makes it easier.
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Originally Posted by curbtender
(Post 23170895)
Most patches have a score in that plastic. If you bend the patch in half before you remove the foil it should release it.
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