Identify Bottom Bracket Tool Needed ?
03-01-24 | 10:56 PM
#3
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 10,156
Likes: 1,122
From: other Vancouver
I would like to see the rest of the crank but I suspect it’s a Shimano FFS crank and its backwards Octa-joint bottom bracket. In order to remove the cups, you need an early Shimano freewheel tool, TL-FW20. These are rare but can be found. It fits the splines in the cups and they unscrew like other English-threaded cups: right side cup is left-hand threaded.
__________________
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
03-02-24 | 01:55 AM
#4
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9,813
Likes: 1,790
From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Are you needing to remove the cups in order to replace them with normal parts?
If so, you could use a piece of 1/4" steel flat stock to turn the cups out after cutting or grinding opposing notches adjacent to the splined hole.
A very large adjustable wrench, pipe wrench or bench vise might then be used to apply torque to the flat stock removal tool.
I believe that the needed tool is usually not hollow like common freewheel tools, which makes identifying one a little easier.
If so, you could use a piece of 1/4" steel flat stock to turn the cups out after cutting or grinding opposing notches adjacent to the splined hole.
A very large adjustable wrench, pipe wrench or bench vise might then be used to apply torque to the flat stock removal tool.
I believe that the needed tool is usually not hollow like common freewheel tools, which makes identifying one a little easier.
03-02-24 | 06:36 AM
#5
Bianchi Goddess
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 28,891
Likes: 4,134
From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
If you're just cleaning, don't bother. Clean them as best you can while there still firmly fixed in place.
I agree with the others though, some more informationa dn cleaner parts would help.
I agree with the others though, some more informationa dn cleaner parts would help.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
03-02-24 | 09:35 AM
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 864
From: SW Florida, USA
Bikes: Yes
I would like to see the rest of the crank but I suspect it’s a Shimano FFS crank and its backwards Octa-joint bottom bracket. In order to remove the cups, you need an early Shimano freewheel tool, TL-FW20. These are rare but can be found. It fits the splines in the cups and they unscrew like other English-threaded cups: right side cup is left-hand threaded.
Strange old Shimano crankset? pics
https://velobase.com/ViewGroup.aspx?...3-dbe7b7f236eb
https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.a...e8875&Enum=115
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...w&opi=89978449
Sorry for the ridiculous length of that last URL, but Google for some reason grossly obfuscates links in their current search results and I don't have the patience at present to interpret it down to more reasonable form. Also, while the Velobase entry for the crankset (third URL above) indicates a 22x1mm extractor is used, I think that's only for removing the crankarms. I believe this setup uses the same tool Jeff Willis indicates above for removing the FFS BB cups.
OP: Best of luck. If you're planning on restoring the bike to original and don't have the rest of the crankset parts, be advised that you might have difficulty finding the rest of the crankset. They're somewhat rare and very non-standard for the era. If you're not planning on a full restoration to original, destructive cup removal (as dddd suggests) is thus an option.
Last edited by Hondo6; 03-02-24 at 09:39 AM. Reason: Clarity and error correction.
03-02-24 | 12:00 PM
#7
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9,813
Likes: 1,790
From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
One thing about replacing (or not replacing) lower-tier cranksets;
I have come to really like cranksets having a pants leg protector ring. I sometimes go to some length getting such rings to run true, even though that's not always as easy as it sounds.
Being able to jump on a bike without changing out of my lightweight trousers is how I get in about half of my rides these days, finding a hole in the rain forecast and/or making an errands run on any of the lesser bikes (i.e. the ones with such chainring guards and that can be left briefly unattended in public places).
Luckily I live in quite hilly terrain so even a short ride can involve challenging hills so I'm able to maintain some critical muscle mass despite an often busy schedule and/or iffy weather (today = Exhibit A and I've got to get back in time to watch the Daytona Supercross).
I'll try to update this post with a couple of photos of a typical such riding scenario (rain starts in three hours, so give me a couple of hours, lol).
I have come to really like cranksets having a pants leg protector ring. I sometimes go to some length getting such rings to run true, even though that's not always as easy as it sounds.
Being able to jump on a bike without changing out of my lightweight trousers is how I get in about half of my rides these days, finding a hole in the rain forecast and/or making an errands run on any of the lesser bikes (i.e. the ones with such chainring guards and that can be left briefly unattended in public places).
Luckily I live in quite hilly terrain so even a short ride can involve challenging hills so I'm able to maintain some critical muscle mass despite an often busy schedule and/or iffy weather (today = Exhibit A and I've got to get back in time to watch the Daytona Supercross).
I'll try to update this post with a couple of photos of a typical such riding scenario (rain starts in three hours, so give me a couple of hours, lol).
03-02-24 | 12:07 PM
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 12,565
Likes: 2,739
From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Not sure if I have the right tool or not....
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
03-02-24 | 12:39 PM
#9
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9,813
Likes: 1,790
From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Maybe this one? It fits the very first splined Shimano freewheels, and maybe just because it's early, it's not hollow like the similar one pictured above far right.
