Headset mysteries
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 6,944
Likes: 853
From: Wilmette, IL
Headset mysteries
I dont know much about headsets. I typically leave them alone. But I now have an issue on the new frame I bought recently.

Problem is the headset has movement, particularly the lower bearing. Even when its adjusted tight it still moves. So when riding and the brakes are applied I get a jerky stuttering effect. Its a Stronglight steel headset. I tried a different fork race and the movement was less but I think its the lower cup thats just too big. Or is it that I am using a caged bearing? Will loose bearings take up the slack?

Problem is the headset has movement, particularly the lower bearing. Even when its adjusted tight it still moves. So when riding and the brakes are applied I get a jerky stuttering effect. Its a Stronglight steel headset. I tried a different fork race and the movement was less but I think its the lower cup thats just too big. Or is it that I am using a caged bearing? Will loose bearings take up the slack?
Last edited by big chainring; 03-13-24 at 06:29 AM.
#3
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its always good to begin at the root
suggest to face head tube & mill fork crown race seat
headset does not "look" like a Stronglight model P3 or V4
looks more like something from Etablissements Gourgaud (LIGHTRACE brand)
if the lockring is marked Stronglight it may be that the set was put together from pieces
one thing encountered occasionally is a cycle whose headset has been assembled from miscellaneous bits which do not always work well together
suspect source of looseness may be fit of lower head cup in head tube and/or fit of fork crown race - this is a fit which needs to be tighter than interference; it needs to be press
if one of these fittings in not tight enough shimming may be in order
if using retainers try changing to loose ball - these will give longer life in terms of brinelling resistance
-----
its always good to begin at the root
suggest to face head tube & mill fork crown race seat
headset does not "look" like a Stronglight model P3 or V4
looks more like something from Etablissements Gourgaud (LIGHTRACE brand)
if the lockring is marked Stronglight it may be that the set was put together from pieces
one thing encountered occasionally is a cycle whose headset has been assembled from miscellaneous bits which do not always work well together
suspect source of looseness may be fit of lower head cup in head tube and/or fit of fork crown race - this is a fit which needs to be tighter than interference; it needs to be press
if one of these fittings in not tight enough shimming may be in order
if using retainers try changing to loose ball - these will give longer life in terms of brinelling resistance
-----
Last edited by juvela; 03-13-24 at 07:00 AM. Reason: spelin'
#6
I dont know much about headsets. I typically leave them alone. But I now have an issue on the new frame I bought recently.
Problem is the headset has movement, particularly the lower bearing. Even when its adjusted tight it still moves. So when riding and the brakes are applied I get a jerky stuttering effect. Its a Stronglight steel headset.
I tried a different fork race and the movement was less but I think its the lower cup thats just too big. Or is it that I am using a caged bearing? Will loose bearings take up the slack?
Problem is the headset has movement, particularly the lower bearing. Even when its adjusted tight it still moves. So when riding and the brakes are applied I get a jerky stuttering effect. Its a Stronglight steel headset.
I tried a different fork race and the movement was less but I think its the lower cup thats just too big. Or is it that I am using a caged bearing? Will loose bearings take up the slack?
I had that happen on one bike, an early steel hybrid that I rode hard on rough single-track trails. A car mechanic I described the problem to recommended one of LocTite's tougher formulations. I used it - problem solved. Cheap fix. Might have been this one:
"LOCTITE 660 is a high-strength retaining compound with good gap-filling properties, ideal for repairing worn-out seats, keys, splines, bearings, or tapers without remachining."
Edit: as I recall, it takes some hours for the compound to harden. Might be best to keep the headset press in place for at least half a day or so.
Last edited by Trakhak; 03-13-24 at 07:37 AM.
#7
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 6,944
Likes: 853
From: Wilmette, IL
If the movement is only front to back and is confined to the bottom of the headset, that suggests that the head tube has become "ovalized," such that the bottom headset cup is no longer firmly held in place and is rocking forward and backward.
I had that happen on one bike, an early steel hybrid that I rode hard on rough single-track trails. A car mechanic I described the problem to recommended one of LocTite's tougher formulations. I used it - problem solved. Cheap fix. Might have been this one:
"LOCTITE 660 is a high-strength retaining compound with good gap-filling properties, ideal for repairing worn-out seats, keys, splines, bearings, or tapers without remachining."
Edit: as I recall, it takes some hours for the compound to harden. Might be best to keep the headset press in place for at least half a day or so.
I had that happen on one bike, an early steel hybrid that I rode hard on rough single-track trails. A car mechanic I described the problem to recommended one of LocTite's tougher formulations. I used it - problem solved. Cheap fix. Might have been this one:
"LOCTITE 660 is a high-strength retaining compound with good gap-filling properties, ideal for repairing worn-out seats, keys, splines, bearings, or tapers without remachining."
Edit: as I recall, it takes some hours for the compound to harden. Might be best to keep the headset press in place for at least half a day or so.
#9
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,542
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From: Fort Collins, CO
Bikes: 1974 Paramount ~ 1974 Raleigh Pro ~ 1977 Pro-Tour ~ 1978 TX900 ~ IronMan 85,87:E/M,88:M/Pro,89:E ~ 98 Peugeot Festina Replica
How are the threads on the fork and the headset? had this issue with a Peugeot and the threads were trashed causing the headset to loosen..
#10
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 12,567
Likes: 2,740
From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
"LOCTITE 660 is a high-strength retaining compound with good gap-filling properties, ideal for repairing worn-out seats, keys, splines, bearings, or tapers without remachining."
Edit: as I recall, it takes some hours for the compound to harden. Might be best to keep the headset press in place for at least half a day or so.
Edit: as I recall, it takes some hours for the compound to harden. Might be best to keep the headset press in place for at least half a day or so.
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#12
Senior Member


Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 248
From: Southern Maryland
Bikes: A few
Can you confirm the lower cup is loose? The 660 probably won’t help if it’s snug in the head tube.
Could be the wrong sized bearings.
A replacement Stronglight headset for that vintage, if you care about keeping it original, won’t be cheap. You’re probably looking at $100 minimum, if you can find one with decent races.
Goid looking bike, by the way. I always liked the look of Libertas bikes.
Could be the wrong sized bearings.
A replacement Stronglight headset for that vintage, if you care about keeping it original, won’t be cheap. You’re probably looking at $100 minimum, if you can find one with decent races.
Goid looking bike, by the way. I always liked the look of Libertas bikes.
#14
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 136
Likes: 80
From: Phoenix Arizona via Seattle
Bikes: 1960s Raleigh sport, 1991 paramount, 1988 Maruishi, 1982 olympic12, 1975 Nishiki Olympic custom, 1995 bianchi celeste, 1986 tvt carbon alum lugged, 1985ish Eddie Merckx frame only, 1985 batavus NOS Bernard hinault edition, 1972 Carlton frame only
I just want say sweet ride nice find! Of course it will bee all the sweeter with a headset fix, good luck with it! Let us know how it’s rectified
#15
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Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 7,002
Likes: 3,850
From: Wake Forest, NC
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Since the OP suggests he got it as a "frame," then nothing is "original." He doesn't need a $200 NOS Stronglight headset. He should just spend $20 bucks and get a new headset, instead of trying to put 20 Band-Aids on it. Could have been purchased and installed by now.
#16
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 6,944
Likes: 853
From: Wilmette, IL
Messed with the headset again. Went to the hardware store and matched up the bearing size to the one good caged bearings I had. I assembled the headset with the caged bearings on the bottom race and loose balls on the top race. It now functions properly. I just dont like headsets. Hope I never have to open up this can of worms again. And the bike rides oh so sweet.









