What type of crankset is this?
#2
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Nervar?
#3
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NERVAR Star from the firm Etablissements Peyrard, of St. Etienne, France
this is the first generation
it received a cosmetic revision for the 1976 model year but all parts interchange between the "G1" & "G2" editions


below is the later type -

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NERVAR Star from the firm Etablissements Peyrard, of St. Etienne, France
this is the first generation
it received a cosmetic revision for the 1976 model year but all parts interchange between the "G1" & "G2" editions
below is the later type -

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#4
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From: Centreville, Virginia
Bikes: 1984 Fuji Touring Series V, 1973 Nishiki Competition, 1980 Raleigh Competition GS, 1983 Trek 600, 1995 Trek 730 Multi-Track, 2010 Nashbar Touring, 2017 Velo-Orange Campeur, 2018 Stanforth Skyelander 650B
Could it be a Nervar Star?
#5
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From: Centreville, Virginia
Bikes: 1984 Fuji Touring Series V, 1973 Nishiki Competition, 1980 Raleigh Competition GS, 1983 Trek 600, 1995 Trek 730 Multi-Track, 2010 Nashbar Touring, 2017 Velo-Orange Campeur, 2018 Stanforth Skyelander 650B
Whoops, jervela and merziac got there before me…
#6
Bike Butcher of Portland


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Definitely Nervar Star. I had a set on my first "quality" bike. Paid $20 to upgrade from the cottered crank it came with.


Sorry for the fuzzy picture, bestg I could do back in 1977


Sorry for the fuzzy picture, bestg I could do back in 1977
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#7
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Very underrated little crankset. Light as heck and usually very non-French compliant! Normal extraction threads too.
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1987 Crest C'dale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin EL, 1990 Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Isoard, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 C'dale M500, 1984 Mercian Pro, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi ?, 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh Internat'l, 1998 Corratec U+D, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone, 1987 Bianchi Volpe, 1995 Trek 750
#8
since OP has the dust caps (or at least one) my 2¢ is
clean the threads with alcohol and apply a drop or 2 of LocTite (Blue or Purple) and maybe you'll always have those caps!
IMO only downside to the Nervar Star is the uncommon BCD(s) the early Gen used 122 bcd and later Gen used 128 bcd (which DOES allow use of some Stronglight rings, maybe some other FR brands that made a variety like TA?)
clean the threads with alcohol and apply a drop or 2 of LocTite (Blue or Purple) and maybe you'll always have those caps!
IMO only downside to the Nervar Star is the uncommon BCD(s) the early Gen used 122 bcd and later Gen used 128 bcd (which DOES allow use of some Stronglight rings, maybe some other FR brands that made a variety like TA?)
#9
Funny [MENTION=381793]gugie[/MENTION] put them on his Super Course — me too! (not hashtag me too, just regular me too). Mine is a '71. I rode it for a while with cottered steel but when I went to work in the bike shop in '71 or '72 (I forget), my first paycheck went to a Nervar Star. It came in a display box with the matching recesses in the styrofoam liner, super classy with the cups and axle all laid out in a "buy me!" pose... Mine had been water-damaged, some corrosion on part of the crank, which is the only way I could afford it even with my employee discount, but I was super-stoked anyway.
A couple years later, Raleigh made a SC that came with Nervar cotterless, but it was steel cotterless, and the spider was swaged-on, not forged integral like the Star. I pitied the fools who bought that!
Even at 14 y.o. I was a bike snob.
#11
Are you sure about that? I (vaguely) remember it opposite, that they were 128 at first, with some 122 mm ones later. 128 is close enough to use 130 rings with some filing, not ideal but do-able. 122 of course is a perfect match with Stronglight 93 and similar (49, 57, 63, 104 et al.)
Not.
I recalled there being 2 BCDs for Nervar Star and checked on Velobase, where there is some contradictory info!
But then found this entry by none other than our own Chas, and he agrees with our own Bulgie, so... end of story!

"These are the earlier model Nevar Star cranks from the Bike Boom era of the early 1970s. They take proprietary 128mm BCD chainrings. The later version from the late 70's used 122mm BCD chainrings - the same as Stronglight."
#12

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- Why doesn't it have "Nervar Star" stamped into the outer face, below the extractor hole? Did it have it once but it got rubbed off?
- Does the guy in the background know his pants have fallen down? I mean no disrespect, if that's a fashion statement. Ya gotta "do you".
#13
The cap in the original pic appears to not be stamped with the Nervar name. All the ones I have (about 4 caps, maybe more) have the name stamped in. Makes me wonder if this was a "private label" or house brand crank that Nervar made for another company.
#14
#15
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[MENTION=160106]bulgie[/MENTION] have seen other machines fitted with the G1 Star OEM where the set was like the one in the OP's image with no marking
always assumed this may have been an option at the OEM level but no hard information
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[MENTION=160106]bulgie[/MENTION] have seen other machines fitted with the G1 Star OEM where the set was like the one in the OP's image with no marking
always assumed this may have been an option at the OEM level but no hard information
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#16
I also generally follow the "grease all threads" rule of thumb, except when easily lost bits are concerned such as crank and pedal dustcaps or the notorious Sun Tour barcon slotted locknuts!
I find LocTite will both "glue" the threads (but not too tight for removal when it's time) plus form a moisture barrier that prevents corrosion/galling as well as grease does. Since I started using the "low strength" Purple it has become my choice for most bicycle applications. Cleaning the threads is a critical step for LocTite (any color) so it's a bit more involved than greasing.
As with so many topics:
YMMV
#17
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#18
Bike Butcher of Portland


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I was 15 at the time, didn't know squat about different cranksets, I just knew a steel cottered one was "low quality", and and wanted an alloy crankset. That's what they sold me.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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#19
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Revisiting your photo, I have a couple questions:

.

.
- Why doesn't it have "Nervar Star" stamped into the outer face, below the extractor hole? Did it have it once but it got rubbed off?
- Does the guy in the background know his pants have fallen down? I mean no disrespect, if that's a fashion statement. Ya gotta "do you".
#21
Here's one of mine that I triplized, "Campy style", but at 86 mm BCD for a Stronglight 99 granny.

It's 175 mm too, so a bit of a unicorn. They're out there... I have another 175 mm set too, haven't decided yet what to do with it.

It's 175 mm too, so a bit of a unicorn. They're out there... I have another 175 mm set too, haven't decided yet what to do with it.
#22
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#23
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#25
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Well, outside of my birth certificate, this is the oldest record I have, for sentimental reasons. It's in on of those things we used to call "photo albums," if you can remember that far back.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.







