Robvolz 

One less blue bike!!

Sactown_Albert 

I love how you immediately have it in rider mode with the lights. Great job!

Robvolz 

It started with a trip to see the best strippers in Portland….American Metal Cleaners. Only $70 and two days. Bike comes back naked.

Next was this 2-part epoxy primer

You use the additional nozzle to activate from the bottom

Robvolz 

two part done

note the lil stringy fellows. Kind of a silly string effect. They come off easy with sanding

Robvolz 

Lots of sanding was needed. There were no dents, but a few pin holes from sweat? And not wiping a bike down.

a few places the primer didn’t auto fill, I sprayed some on a board and used a razor blade to force it in.

Robvolz 

Smoothed out.


Now actual primer

Followed by the color. I found the purple metallic from a 1972 Ferrari Dino color book.

droppedandlost 

Dust in your wine?

WaveyGravey

Very nice! Was this a chemical strip of the paint?

Robvolz 

The biggest challenge was waiting for the Decals coming from Australia. They took a full month +

next time I’ll pay for faster shipping.

they arrived. I got home late that night. After attempts to sleep, I could hear the decals calling to me. 3am let’s do this.

i had measured where the decals were before and mapped the frame out using blue painters masking tape (the tape is blue, not the painters)


Greg offers three methods of application 1, dry, but you need steady hands 2, wet. You mist the frame and that allows you to slide the decal until you are happy with its location 3, surface. The old Molteni team bikes had the decals on top the paint. I have steady hands so I did dry.

Greta, “ that’s my bed.”

I also used Testors yellow paint for the panto infill and outlining the club in the BB.

Hmmmmm

Robvolz 

A black silca pump came into the co-op. Perfect fit.

Luckily there was enough paint in the disposable cup that sits atop the spray gun for me to hit the pump and a lil scratch caused by a dog chasing a ball under the table, knocking it over (how many times have I told you no throwing the ball in the house Greta!!)

so back to the booth we go.


Black pump with a quick sand. I should have sanded the silca label off better, but it fits against the frame and no one knows.




I used ear plugs to plug the holes

Robvolz 

A quick build.

no more Dura Ace. Now vintage correct campy as god intended.

from this:

Blue and dura ace…..bleh


to this:


Test ridden at last nights TNR. After some minor brake and RD adjustments, she is golden.

smd4

So with that setup, I'm guessing you're not as "amateur" as I thought.

Robvolz 

Oh no.

This is my first bike paint job that wasn't a can of rustoleum. when I was a teen.

Several months ago I wrote about how some fentanyl heads crashed their truck into every car on my block, and how I made friends with a local body shop (post was removed for "not C&V related," yet the purpose of the post was to bring up the shop offered to teach us how to prep and paint a bike frame for $60 each).

I still have that free Bianchi bar crawler bike to do. Any local people are welcome to join along.

smd4

Then you need to take a well-deserved bow.

tiger1964 

Lovely!

Semi-OT, your headlight looks like the Cygolite a friend recently bought me because the $12 Amazon once I keep using drives him nuts. I contacted the manufacturer after a couple of rides about the clamp -- how is it working out for you? When used on vintage-diameter bars, the clamp really only contacts the bars at the top & bottom, not all the way around. Even on the relatively smooth rail-trail, the light keeps nosing down. Cygolite answered a couple of minutes ago, they are sending me rubber spacers -- which is what I was going to try anyway.

Robvolz 

It came with rubber spacers, they stay with the clamp as I go from bike to bike.

the smarter move would be to buy more clamps

Robvolz 

One thing:
the body shop uses water based paint, not solvent based.

they were worried about how the decals would react to the water based paint before the clear coat

i was advised by them to go buy (my dime) the solvent based color which I did.

now that I feel confident on decal placement, I would use their water based color and stick with their $60 fee (instead of me paying $60 + $120-ish for enough paint for two frames.)

If anybody wants a bike painted purple….

Maxey

Outstanding work, Robvolz!

icemilkcoffee 

Was it clear coated? How did you get it from this non-shiny finish:


to this shiny finish:

Robvolz 

Yes
I found this interesting. The nozzle for colored paint is a very narrow stream.

The nozzle for clearcoat is a huge missed cloud. I’m sure 80% of it went to the ground as opposed to on the bike. But that’s how you get an even coat without runs.

Oh, I did get a run, on the pump, but it is where the pump is against the frame. No one knows.

shhhhh

blamester

Excellent work. Looks pro.

squirtdad

super nice.....of course my mind originally wondered what the best strippers in Portland had to do with a bike frame then I kept reading

tiger1964 

Uh, with that gloss, do you really need lights on that bike? They will see you coming.

I guess the reason they are sending me such spacers is that they must have been missing form the box.

Remembering a recent topic about getting a nearly-chrome finish with chrome marking pens, I'm tempted to see if I can un-black the headlight, it really stands out on the bike.

+1 on more clamps, apparently $15/each.

Robvolz 

trust me, they are having fun with it. They hand out pens that say “the best strippers in town.”

satbuilder 

I’ve heard great reviews on the Iwata LPH 400. Back in my younger days, I used a Binks model 7 and loved it.

Very nice job, Rob. Makes me think about repainting my ‘73 Super. It has lots of battle scars.