Old Wheels
#1
Thread Starter
Klaatu..Verata..Necktie?




Joined: May 2007
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 17,049
From: SF Bay Area
Bikes: Litespeed Ultimate, Ultegra; Canyon Endurace, 105; Battaglin MAX, Chorus; Bianchi 928 Veloce; Ritchey Road Logic, Dura Ace; Cannondale R500 RX100; Schwinn Circuit, Sante; Lotus Supreme, Dura Ace
Old Wheels
I spent my evenings last week rebuilding a set of wheels, replacing the rims, spokes, and nipples with all new. I even got myself a tension meter to make sure the spoke tension was right and balanced. Those wheels came out great!
So, armed with new tools and the desire to use
them I turned my attention to the wheels on my 1989 Schwinn Circuit. These have Shimano Sante hubs, Wolber Profil TX rims, and 32 un-butted spokes. Recommended tension for the front and drive side rear would be 100-120 kgf, and 66 kgf for the NDS. I checked. Tension on the front spokes was between 45 and 65. Way low. So I put a drop of TriFlow onto each spoke a the nipple, and set about increasing the tension. At least 4 of the nipples were rounded out, and I only made that worse. I got all the way around the wheel, trued it up again, and stopped. Didn't even measure the tension, because what could I do? Round out more nipples?
So, my question to the C&V folks is - what do you do about the wheels that come on bikes you acquire? True them up, of course! But do you bother with the spoke tension? At this point, I'm considering going back and replacing ALL the nipples with new ones so I can re-tension the wheels, but am I crazy? The spokes are all fine, as far as I can tell, so I wouldn't replace those, and the anodized rims show only light brake track wear, so they're fine. Should I just leave well enough alone?
So, armed with new tools and the desire to use
them I turned my attention to the wheels on my 1989 Schwinn Circuit. These have Shimano Sante hubs, Wolber Profil TX rims, and 32 un-butted spokes. Recommended tension for the front and drive side rear would be 100-120 kgf, and 66 kgf for the NDS. I checked. Tension on the front spokes was between 45 and 65. Way low. So I put a drop of TriFlow onto each spoke a the nipple, and set about increasing the tension. At least 4 of the nipples were rounded out, and I only made that worse. I got all the way around the wheel, trued it up again, and stopped. Didn't even measure the tension, because what could I do? Round out more nipples?
So, my question to the C&V folks is - what do you do about the wheels that come on bikes you acquire? True them up, of course! But do you bother with the spoke tension? At this point, I'm considering going back and replacing ALL the nipples with new ones so I can re-tension the wheels, but am I crazy? The spokes are all fine, as far as I can tell, so I wouldn't replace those, and the anodized rims show only light brake track wear, so they're fine. Should I just leave well enough alone?
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"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
#2
Senior Member



Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 5,778
Likes: 3,341
From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 82 Medici, 85 Ironman, 2011 Richard Sachs
The wheels on new acquisitions get a couple drops of Liquid Wrench at both ends of the nipples at the same time I squirt PB Blaster on all of the bike's other fasteners. I attend to the wheels days, weeks, sometimes months after I have disassembled the bike. When I get to the wheels, usually, the brass nipples will turn and I completely de-tension the wheel and bring it back up to tension a la Roger Musson's excellent book. I believe that I feel the difference before and after this rebuild. Sometimes I need to fuss if the wheelbuilder used the wrong spoke lengths.
If a nipple or two won't turn, I grab it with some small Vise-Grips. If there are more than two problem nipples, it is often most of them and they need replacing and maybe even the stainless spokes.
If a nipple or two won't turn, I grab it with some small Vise-Grips. If there are more than two problem nipples, it is often most of them and they need replacing and maybe even the stainless spokes.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs. But I do hate all e-bikes.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs. But I do hate all e-bikes.
#3
Thread Starter
Klaatu..Verata..Necktie?




Joined: May 2007
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 17,049
From: SF Bay Area
Bikes: Litespeed Ultimate, Ultegra; Canyon Endurace, 105; Battaglin MAX, Chorus; Bianchi 928 Veloce; Ritchey Road Logic, Dura Ace; Cannondale R500 RX100; Schwinn Circuit, Sante; Lotus Supreme, Dura Ace
The wheels on new acquisitions get a couple drops of Liquid Wrench at both ends of the nipples at the same time I squirt PB Blaster on all of the bike's other fasteners. I attend to the wheels days, weeks, sometimes months after I have disassembled the bike. When I get to the wheels, usually, the brass nipples will turn and I completely de-tension the wheel and bring it back up to tension a la Roger Musson's excellent book. I believe that I feel the difference before and after this rebuild. Sometimes I need to fuss if the wheelbuilder used the wrong spoke lengths.
If a nipple or two won't turn, I grab it with some small Vise-Grips. If there are more than two problem nipples, it is often most of them and they need replacing and maybe even the stainless spokes.
If a nipple or two won't turn, I grab it with some small Vise-Grips. If there are more than two problem nipples, it is often most of them and they need replacing and maybe even the stainless spokes.
__________________
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
#4
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 2,930
Likes: 1,795
From: Long Island, NY
Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport
On one of my orders for bike parts, I picked up a package of 100 nipples. I also save old good nipples for such a purpose. When I get a wheel, if I feel is not tensioned enough, I will tighten each spoke. The ones that round off get replaced. The ones that tighten, stay. I've never replaced a entiere wheels worth, however, in you situation, I probably would.
#5
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 172
Likes: 195
From: N CA
Bikes: 72 Cinelli SC, 73,77 Schwinn Paramount, 85 Miyata 1000, 87 Centurion IronMan, 89 Pinarello Treviso
I have only built about 4 wheels and still a beginner on this. One thing I heard before and it is quite reasonable that you might not trust the absolute read out of the tension meter unless it’s super $$$ one which may just have less error. You may use your other working wheels as reference points instead of trying to push for 100+ kgf.. just my 2c
I also bought a more precious spoke tools like park tools as cheap one seems quite loose.
I also bought a more precious spoke tools like park tools as cheap one seems quite loose.
Last edited by ryanl092; 05-06-24 at 07:19 PM.
#6
Senior Member


Joined: May 2010
Posts: 5,596
Likes: 2,463
From: Bastrop Texas
Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites
Same here as with SurferRosa... Clean um up. I use ATF with some Denatured Alcohol to soak the edges of the rim in a shallow pan getting both the top and the bottom of the nipples. I then wait about 24 hours before trying to move the nipples. I loosen up, detune, the wheel. I check to make sure it is round and flat after loosening it up. I have an old heavy duty steel rim for this. I really like my cheap ChiCom spoke tension meter but I only use if for ball park tension. Especially on an old wheel. You will go crazy if you pay to much attention to the numbers. Getting it close is good. Front wheel is pretty easy. Rear wheel I bring the drive side up to around my desired tension and then true adjusting the nondrive side. All this without a real trueing stand so far.
Things like this many years ago were a chore, but as my ability to ride diminishes, my joy of doing projects like this increases...
Note: On one old steel MAVAC wheel I did not have the proper sized Spoke Wrench. And I have more then a few! I finally just took and old round spoke wrench and filed it to the needed size.
Things like this many years ago were a chore, but as my ability to ride diminishes, my joy of doing projects like this increases...
Note: On one old steel MAVAC wheel I did not have the proper sized Spoke Wrench. And I have more then a few! I finally just took and old round spoke wrench and filed it to the needed size.
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No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
Last edited by zandoval; 05-06-24 at 11:16 PM.
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 17,196
Likes: 761
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
The wheels on new acquisitions get a couple drops of Liquid Wrench at both ends of the nipples at the same time I squirt PB Blaster on all of the bike's other fasteners. I attend to the wheels days, weeks, sometimes months after I have disassembled the bike. When I get to the wheels, usually, the brass nipples will turn and I completely de-tension the wheel and bring it back up to tension a la Roger Musson's excellent book. I believe that I feel the difference before and after this rebuild. Sometimes I need to fuss if the wheelbuilder used the wrong spoke lengths.
If a nipple or two won't turn, I grab it with some small Vise-Grips. If there are more than two problem nipples, it is often most of them and they need replacing and maybe even the stainless spokes.
If a nipple or two won't turn, I grab it with some small Vise-Grips. If there are more than two problem nipples, it is often most of them and they need replacing and maybe even the stainless spokes.
#8
Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 17,196
Likes: 761
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
So far I havan't had a lot use for nipple solvents and such, but I just found a few rounded on some oldies. Maybe I need to follow the suggestions of Sandoval and others here!
Also started using Musson and the Park Tensiometer. I'm glad to have better wheels, no doubt!!!
Also started using Musson and the Park Tensiometer. I'm glad to have better wheels, no doubt!!!
#9
Full Member


Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 466
Likes: 666
From: High Desert above L.A.
Bikes: Primary bike in 2025 - my 1979/80 Shogun 600 since I can change everything and not feel like I'm committing sacrilege; followed by 71 Hetchins Hellenic, 72 Hetchins straight stay Spyder, late 70's gold ALAN Competition with Campy/Huret Jubilee
Same here as with SurferRosa... Clean um up. I use ATF with some Denatured Alcohol to soak the edges of the rim in a shallow pan getting both the top and the bottom of the nipples. I then wait about 24 hours before trying to move the nipples. I loosen up, detune, the wheel. I check to make sure it is round and flat after loosening it up. I have an old heavy duty steel rim for this. I really like my cheap ChiCom spoke tension meter but I only use if for ball park tension. Especially on an old wheel. You will go crazy if you pay to much attention to the numbers. Getting it close is good. Front wheel is pretty easy. Rear wheel I bring the drive side up to around my desired tension and then true adjusting the nondrive side. All this without a real trueing stand so far.
Things like this many years ago were a chore, but as my ability to ride diminishes, my joy of doing projects like this increases...
Note: On one old steel MAVAC wheel I did not have the proper sized Spoke Wrench. And I have more then a few! I finally just took and old round spoke wrench and filed it to the needed size.
Things like this many years ago were a chore, but as my ability to ride diminishes, my joy of doing projects like this increases...
Note: On one old steel MAVAC wheel I did not have the proper sized Spoke Wrench. And I have more then a few! I finally just took and old round spoke wrench and filed it to the needed size.
#10
Not lost wanderer.


Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,684
Likes: 1,422
From: Lancaster, Pa
Bikes: Cambodia bike,2012 Fuji Stratos...
Automatic transmission fluid
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72 Geoffery Butler, 72 Gugificatizion Witcomb, 72 Raleigh Gran Sport SS, 74 Raleigh GrandPrix dingle speed, 74 Raleigh international, 81 Centurion Pro-Tour, 85 Gazelle Primeur, 29rBMX, Surley Steamroller 650b
72 Geoffery Butler, 72 Gugificatizion Witcomb, 72 Raleigh Gran Sport SS, 74 Raleigh GrandPrix dingle speed, 74 Raleigh international, 81 Centurion Pro-Tour, 85 Gazelle Primeur, 29rBMX, Surley Steamroller 650b
#11
Full Member


Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 466
Likes: 666
From: High Desert above L.A.
Bikes: Primary bike in 2025 - my 1979/80 Shogun 600 since I can change everything and not feel like I'm committing sacrilege; followed by 71 Hetchins Hellenic, 72 Hetchins straight stay Spyder, late 70's gold ALAN Competition with Campy/Huret Jubilee
That was the only thing I could think of, but thought, maybe an acronym for some fancy new product. I hadn't realized it's use in this fashion. Thank you
#12
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,347
Likes: 5,147
From: Central Virginia
Bikes: Numerous
I have a Wheelsmith tensiometer but only use it when I build a wheel to ensure I’m in the right ballpark. On a new to me old wheel, I check the hub, true the wheel and ride it. If it won’t stay in true, which is rare, then I might de-tension and start over on the wheel.
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N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, ‘81 Masi Gran Criterium, ‘81 Merckx Pro, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, Rivendell Rambouillet, Heron Randonneur, ‘92 Ciöcc Columbus EL
N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, ‘81 Masi Gran Criterium, ‘81 Merckx Pro, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, Rivendell Rambouillet, Heron Randonneur, ‘92 Ciöcc Columbus EL
#13
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,397
Likes: 1,864
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
What's a good source for just the nipples? I want to rebuild a couple of my older wheelsets, and the rims and nipple rounding is a big issue.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#14
Senior Member


Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 1,048
From: Toledo Ohio
Bikes: 1964 Huffy Sportsman, 1972 Fuji Newest, 1973 Schwinn Super Sport (3), 1982 Trek 412, 1983 Trek 700, 1989 Miyata 1000LT, 1991 Bianchi Boardwalk, plus others
I haven’t done many sets, but the ones I have done have often seen little use in decades. I have no problem with tarnished galvanized spokes, but rounded nipples really bug me. I will replace a few maybe, but any more than that and it’s time for all new nipples. My reasoning is that the other old ones will round off with another truing of the wheel in another decade or so.
#15
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 2,930
Likes: 1,795
From: Long Island, NY
Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport





