Hi all,
Have a chance to acquire a Colnago Carbitubo for zip; however, it’s definitely been ridden and has a few scrapes here and there in addition to 30+ year old adhesive holding it together. I’m willing to do a full restoration on it given the price (0) and it’s unique place in history and I’m hoping to get some feedback regarding any experiences with restoring lugged carbon such as who does it, is it worthwhile, should it just be a wall hanger etc. My intent would be to restore it and use it only when it’s warm and sunny for the occasional “relaxed” ride to get a coffee, lol.

Level with me: is this a crazy idea?

Thanks all!

Yes, but that never stopped us.

No Colnago is ever a crazy idea.

I just did a 30 miler on my 1996 C40 a couple days ago. The price is right so go for it and have fun! Mine is carbon wrapped aluminum lugs. The only structural issue I’ve encountered with mine is the BB threading is very worn and for a while I couldn’t get the drive side to cinch down. I ultimately fixed that with a Phil Wood BB (adjustable cup both sides) and a generous amount of blue Loctite.

If fork on yours is original, it will be a steel Precisa and if the project doesn’t work out, you will have a line of people who would like to buy that fork from you.

I appreciate all the comments so far.
- Yes, we are all a little crazy!
- Agreed; a Colnago is never a bad idea!
- The fork is bonded aluminum (raked vs straight) with a Colnago crown. From the research I’ve been able to do so far - that indicates it’s either a very early frame or the fork is a replacement.

Still digging up info and anything anyone is willing to share is definitely appreciated 👍

I have a few CF C&V bikes, they have not given me any sort of trouble, but I recognize that they require a bit more care, compared to a steel or aluminum bikes. Like storing them in the dryest conditions I can provide and never putting them away wet.
I also only buy CF C&V bikes in the best condition I can find. So it is prudent to be a bit concerned about getting a Carbitubo with some "scrapes" on it.
I think if the scrapes are not that deep (Only within a clearcoat layer.) and do not get into the weave of the CF material, then it could be safe to ride the bike.
You also have to look at the joints between the aluminum lugs and the CF tobes to see if sny of the tubes have signs of pulling out or the glue bond degrading from electrolytic corrosion of the lug.......

The scrapes seem to be superficial with none getting in to the weave - which is promising.
My biggest concern is in fact the electrolytic reaction between tubes and lugs as well as degradation of the adhesive. I own a few more modern CF bikes and care for them pretty much the same way you do. I’m terrified to get them wet, lol.

I’ve sent out a couple of emails to some reputable CF repair shops. We’ll see what comes back.

Just figured out the fork is from an 80s Alan-made Colnago aluminum double down tube which looks just like the Carbitubo and Bi-titan - but aluminum - called the “Duall”. Can’t be many of those around. I did find an ‘88 catalog that shows the Carbitubo with this fork as stock though; so who knows…

If I do go forward with this - I’ll have to get a Precisa. It’s cool because it’s a Colnago - but it’s really kind of not. Perplexing. What I’d spend getting this restored could put me on a nice steel Colnago.

Still mulling it over…

Did you get it? Check Bb shell closely if you have a chance. IIRC someone here broke one before buying it.

Update:

I got it and just finished tearing it down. All the damage looks superficial (scratches/chips in the paint and clear - no weave damage). No signs of electrolysis or cracks/separations that I can see. Only real issue is one of the Alan top tube cable guides is missing a piece. Those seem to be difficult to locate - anyone know a source? Any advice on getting the small screws to turn? Gave it a quick try and for such a small screw - it’s in there pretty good.

Also located a steel 1st gen Precisa fork locally, but the steerer may be a bit too short. It’s going to be close. I may have a Precisa for sale soon if it won’t work.

I’m in contact with TW Carbon in Missouri about utilizing their specialized inspection and restoration services. Hope to be sending it off within the next couple of weeks.

All in all, I’m pretty happy with it. It’s stamped as a 58 (which it is c-to-t) but the seat tube is a hair over 56 c-to-c and the top tube is 55.5 c-to-c; just right for me. Planning to build it with Dura Ace 7700 if all goes well. Getting a little ahead of myself, lol. Got to sort out the cable guide and fork first.

LeCycleur sells waterjet cut repros, but I would just wait for a toast ALAN frame to pop up anywhere near you (due to the lug cracking issue, they are rather common), and until then use a temporary solution like velcro.
https://lecycleur.com/product/alan-cable-guide/

If you can afford a check with the carbon specialists, that's a good thing and highly advisable, not sure if they can determine the condition of the glued surfaces, but that is something you'll notice overtime if problematic or not. I bought my ALAN frame for 20 EUR with an already welded head lug crack, and I put several km's on it, never regretted the move. The glued parts are all okay since '85, but the interweb show's failed glues.... although I think, the ratio of the failed ones compared to the not failed is minimal, it's just the people who shout if something is bad 2-3 times, but acknowledge with a silent nod if its good for a few thousand times.

Maybe you can have a replacement top tube cable guide 3D printed??

That’s an excellent idea. I will look into that.
Thanks!

If you’re “cutting” it close on the steerer, some short stack height threaded headsets: Chris King, Shimano 600, Tange Passage (shortest and cheapest but looks pretty good). You can get an idea by measuring steerer length and comparing to headset stack height plus head tube length.

Understood, thanks for the advice. I will do just that👍