|
Is this rust a no go?
$80. 23” lugged 750. Is this rust an issue?
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...071795bd7.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...05730c781.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c9da2ff6b.jpeg |
It wouldn't scare me away.
|
The seat tube - bottom bracket junction is under extremely high stress, and that is where my Nishiki frame failed after about 20K miles of hard use. I was able to ride home just fine, with a groan coming out of the frame on every pedal downstroke, even though I geared pretty far down and took it easy. I never felt endangered, so I would say ride it until it inevitably fails there.
|
I would not pay $80 for that bike. The rust on the top tube looks to go deep. There are plenty of cheap bikes out there that don't have such compromised frames.
|
At least they're in the black areas of the frame where touchups won't be as noticeable from far away. If those are the worst spots, it doesn't seem that bad to me.
|
I think the 23" framed are relatively rare compared to smaller sizes, so while there are likely much better deals out there, you might have to wait a while to find one.
You could probably ride it as is for years as is. For a rider I would tear it down, inspect inside the bottom bracket shell, scrape, chemically treat the rust, prime, paint, maybe clear coat and wax. I've done this on a couple bikes. It takes time and a more money than you'd think for materials. Next one, which happens to be a 23" Trek 750, is getting a utilitarian powder coat. But that project has enough sunk costs that the extra $120 seems like a rational choice..., |
Sand it, treat it, clean it. After you’re done removing the rust, that should be a relatively easy to touch-up job with black paint if you wish. From my perspective, it looks like it’s definitely early enough to salvage, and worth the effort for a well-made, versatile lugged frame.
That said, I don’t have any experience with this model, but I am a battered veteran in the war against rust. Case in point: my commuter, which is currently undergoing its Before https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b43192eeb.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...08bd52623.jpeg All I did was quickly scrub it with a mildly-soapy brush, and toss it in an oxalic acid bath (sold in many hardware stores as wood bleach, roughly 1 tbs per gallon). https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3160b2421.jpeg Typically, it only takes about 24 to 36 hours for light to moderate rust. This bath lasted a few days but hopefully bought me several more years on my faithful Cilo. (I have an identical back-up frame in the wings.) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0d8f43026.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e91061422.jpeg |
Originally Posted by gaucho777
(Post 23369494)
I am a battered veteran in the war against rust. Case in point: my commuter, which is currently undergoing its semi-annual oxalic acid bath and cleansing which started last weekend.
|
Originally Posted by SurferRosa
(Post 23369560)
Twice a year you do this? Why not at least clear coat it?
@bark_eater I am thinking of adding some clear coat this time, but up until now I’ve just coated with wax. |
Where (what kinds of conditions) has it been stored under? What I'd do is offer $40.00, take the fork off and inspect blades, crown, ends and steerer for any oxydization. Strip, etch and prime areas of rust to get an intimate look at what's going on. Grey primer spots will just make this frame look more bad-ass. Ride hard.
|
Lugged 750s are not very common. If it fits and fills a gap in your stable, and you don’t mind arresting the rust, go for it. Have you been waiting for this model to show up?
|
I am not trying to talk the OP into buying this bike but it is worth pointing out that this is a terrific bike. The 90s lugged Trek 750s are very similar to the 520s, Trek's top touring bike (the hybrids lack downtube shifter bosses though). This is my 1993 750. I think this is one of the finest all around bikes I have ever ridden.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8da3217fa6.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0d2ba35320.png |
Originally Posted by davester
(Post 23369405)
I would not pay $80 for that bike. The rust on the top tube looks to go deep. There are plenty of cheap bikes out there that don't have such compromised frames.
|
Originally Posted by gaucho777
(Post 23369602)
Sorry, I used the wrong term. Not semi-annual. I do this every 2-3 years. In the meantime, I do occasionally wrap a rag around the tube and soak is with Evapo-rust for a day or two.
@bark_eater I am thinking of adding some clear coat this time, but up until now I’ve just coated with wax. |
I went back and it was still there, and lowered to 60, so I picked it up. I figure if all fails, then I have a decent set of 700’s for another project. I did get it home and sanded down the top tube and it looks like it is all superficial. I guess this will be my winter project.
|
Originally Posted by Lbxpdx
(Post 23370860)
I went back and it was still there, and lowered to 60, so I picked it up. I figure if all fails, then I have a decent set of 700’s for another project. I did get it home and sanded down the top tube and it looks like it is all superficial. I guess this will be my winter project.
|
Originally Posted by Lbxpdx
(Post 23370860)
I went back and it was still there, and lowered to 60, so I picked it up. I figure if all fails, then I have a decent set of 700’s for another project. I did get it home and sanded down the top tube and it looks like it is all superficial. I guess this will be my winter project.
|
I'd offer less and pick it up - great organ donor if the rust is too bad. As for treating the rust, here's my choice for those who are not aware of it: Por-15 High Performance Restoration Products
|
I've seen and ridden much, much worse, but I would not pay $80 for it, unless perhaps the parts were good quality and in quite good condition and I had another frame in mind to eventually move the stuff over onto. That top tube rust says more to me than the stuff around the BB, as there is flaking of the steel, and the tubing is typically quite thin in that area. It's clear that this bike has spent extended time in damp storage. While I don't see rust on the components, it's possible there is more corrosion inside the tubes. It's a mid-range model--a decent bike but nothing really special. I'd offer half that, settle for 50 bucks, but then spend some time cleaning up those rusty areas and recoating them. That rust goes right into the steel, so you want to treat it with something like EvapoRust after sanding off the surface rust, then priming and painting it, something you should be able to do yourself. Even with all that, the rust will still come back, eventually, so keep your eye on it and be prepared for a repeat performance.
|
Originally Posted by sbarner
(Post 23371040)
I've seen and ridden much, much worse, but I would not pay $80 for it, unless perhaps the parts were good quality and in quite good condition and I had another frame in mind to eventually move the stuff over onto. That top tube rust says more to me than the stuff around the BB, as there is flaking of the steel, and the tubing is typically quite thin in that area. It's clear that this bike has spent extended time in damp storage. While I don't see rust on the components, it's possible there is more corrosion inside the tubes. It's a mid-range model--a decent bike but nothing really special. I'd offer half that, settle for 50 bucks, but then spend some time cleaning up those rusty areas and recoating them. That rust goes right into the steel, so you want to treat it with something like EvapoRust after sanding off the surface rust, then priming and painting it, something you should be able to do yourself. Even with all that, the rust will still come back, eventually, so keep your eye on it and be prepared for a repeat performance.
this is a link to the '93 catalog which provides the tubing specs for the 2 model. I also took a screen shot of the 2 models to show the tubing. The 520 came spec'd with better components. https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/trek/93/Trek93.pdf https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...98a6d74a46.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4ec6ae4c20.png |
Exactly - if the 750 is "mid-range", what's above it?
|
Originally Posted by madpogue
(Post 23372269)
Exactly - if the 750 is "mid-range", what's above it?
Trek did have a 790, which was the same frame as the 750. They also made 7 series hybrids in aluminum and glued carbon fiber. But that's more other end verses higher end. |
I guess I don't think of second from top-of-the-line as "mid-range". In any event, they didn't make a 790 in 1993, so the subject 750 is at the top of the line of steel hybrids.
|
Not to cause a ruckus here, but are you sure thats a 23" frame?
|
Originally Posted by Loganiscool
(Post 23376449)
Not to cause a ruckus here, but are you sure thats a 23" frame?
|
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:07 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.