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Is this rust a no go?

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Old 10-11-24 | 07:29 PM
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Is this rust a no go?

$80. 23” lugged 750. Is this rust an issue?




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Old 10-11-24 | 07:40 PM
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Old 10-11-24 | 07:44 PM
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The seat tube - bottom bracket junction is under extremely high stress, and that is where my Nishiki frame failed after about 20K miles of hard use. I was able to ride home just fine, with a groan coming out of the frame on every pedal downstroke, even though I geared pretty far down and took it easy. I never felt endangered, so I would say ride it until it inevitably fails there.
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Old 10-11-24 | 07:49 PM
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I would not pay $80 for that bike. The rust on the top tube looks to go deep. There are plenty of cheap bikes out there that don't have such compromised frames.
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Old 10-11-24 | 10:29 PM
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At least they're in the black areas of the frame where touchups won't be as noticeable from far away. If those are the worst spots, it doesn't seem that bad to me.
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Old 10-11-24 | 11:58 PM
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I think the 23" framed are relatively rare compared to smaller sizes, so while there are likely much better deals out there, you might have to wait a while to find one.

You could probably ride it as is for years as is. For a rider I would tear it down, inspect inside the bottom bracket shell, scrape, chemically treat the rust, prime, paint, maybe clear coat and wax. I've done this on a couple bikes. It takes time and a more money than you'd think for materials.

Next one, which happens to be a 23" Trek 750, is getting a utilitarian powder coat. But that project has enough sunk costs that the extra $120 seems like a rational choice...,


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Old 10-12-24 | 12:59 AM
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Sand it, treat it, clean it. After you’re done removing the rust, that should be a relatively easy to touch-up job with black paint if you wish. From my perspective, it looks like it’s definitely early enough to salvage, and worth the effort for a well-made, versatile lugged frame.

That said, I don’t have any experience with this model, but I am a battered veteran in the war against rust. Case in point: my commuter, which is currently undergoing its semi-annual periodic oxalic acid bath and cleansing which started last weekend. Planning to put it back together this weekend. I love this bike. I’m not about to give it up. What if this Trek is such a bike for you? I want that for you. You live in Portland. Embrace it.

Before



All I did was quickly scrub it with a mildly-soapy brush, and toss it in an oxalic acid bath (sold in many hardware stores as wood bleach, roughly 1 tbs per gallon).

Typically, it only takes about 24 to 36 hours for light to moderate rust. This bath lasted a few days but hopefully bought me several more years on my faithful Cilo. (I have an identical back-up frame in the wings.)


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Old 10-12-24 | 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by gaucho777
I am a battered veteran in the war against rust. Case in point: my commuter, which is currently undergoing its semi-annual oxalic acid bath and cleansing which started last weekend.
What are you doing for rust prevention between baths? I've got a black bike that I cleaned up with Navel Jelly and black rattle can rust primer. The bike is waxed occasionally and gets hosed down with WD40 pretty regularly. Its been living outside, 1000 feet from the Chesapeake for 4-5 years, and has seen a use ridden in the winter with spiked tires, getting a good dose of road salt. The rust hasn't really gotten any worse. I'm in no way a commuter, so of course YMMV.......

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Old 10-12-24 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
Twice a year you do this? Why not at least clear coat it?
Sorry, I used the wrong term. Not semi-annual. I do this every 2-3 years. In the meantime, I do occasionally wrap a rag around the tube and soak it with Evapo-rust for a day or two.

@bark_eater I am thinking of adding some clear coat this time, but up until now I’ve just coated with wax.

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Old 10-12-24 | 08:32 AM
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Where (what kinds of conditions) has it been stored under? What I'd do is offer $40.00, take the fork off and inspect blades, crown, ends and steerer for any oxydization. Strip, etch and prime areas of rust to get an intimate look at what's going on. Grey primer spots will just make this frame look more bad-ass. Ride hard.
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Old 10-12-24 | 09:27 AM
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Lugged 750s are not very common. If it fits and fills a gap in your stable, and you don’t mind arresting the rust, go for it. Have you been waiting for this model to show up?
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Old 10-12-24 | 09:32 AM
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I am not trying to talk the OP into buying this bike but it is worth pointing out that this is a terrific bike. The 90s lugged Trek 750s are very similar to the 520s, Trek's top touring bike (the hybrids lack downtube shifter bosses though). This is my 1993 750. I think this is one of the finest all around bikes I have ever ridden.



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Old 10-12-24 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by davester
I would not pay $80 for that bike. The rust on the top tube looks to go deep. There are plenty of cheap bikes out there that don't have such compromised frames.
The bike may or may not be worth $80 but a '93 lugged Trek 750 is, IMO, a desirable bike. This is a top dog hybrid bike from back in the day with a full chrome moly frame. Mine weighs 27 lbs which isn't bad with a Brooks leather saddle and Schwalbe Marathon 700 x 38c "racer" tires (only Schwalbe would think that these are racer tires). These bikes are not easy to find.

Last edited by bikemig; 10-12-24 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 10-12-24 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by gaucho777
Sorry, I used the wrong term. Not semi-annual. I do this every 2-3 years. In the meantime, I do occasionally wrap a rag around the tube and soak is with Evapo-rust for a day or two.

@bark_eater I am thinking of adding some clear coat this time, but up until now I’ve just coated with wax.
I've had good luck with using oil based Penterol over rust treated with Phosphoric acid.
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Old 10-13-24 | 09:09 PM
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I went back and it was still there, and lowered to 60, so I picked it up. I figure if all fails, then I have a decent set of 700’s for another project. I did get it home and sanded down the top tube and it looks like it is all superficial. I guess this will be my winter project.
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Old 10-14-24 | 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Lbxpdx
I went back and it was still there, and lowered to 60, so I picked it up. I figure if all fails, then I have a decent set of 700’s for another project. I did get it home and sanded down the top tube and it looks like it is all superficial. I guess this will be my winter project.
60 bucks is a good deal. You probably couldn't order many single replacement components for $60. I've bought several bikes just for wheelsets. Enjoy the project.
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Old 10-14-24 | 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Lbxpdx
I went back and it was still there, and lowered to 60, so I picked it up. I figure if all fails, then I have a decent set of 700’s for another project. I did get it home and sanded down the top tube and it looks like it is all superficial. I guess this will be my winter project.
Assuming the frame is in decent shape, you got a very good deal at $60. I really like my '93 Trek 750. This is a very fine and versatile machine.
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Old 10-14-24 | 06:25 AM
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I'd offer less and pick it up - great organ donor if the rust is too bad. As for treating the rust, here's my choice for those who are not aware of it: Por-15 High Performance Restoration Products
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Old 10-14-24 | 08:00 AM
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I've seen and ridden much, much worse, but I would not pay $80 for it, unless perhaps the parts were good quality and in quite good condition and I had another frame in mind to eventually move the stuff over onto. That top tube rust says more to me than the stuff around the BB, as there is flaking of the steel, and the tubing is typically quite thin in that area. It's clear that this bike has spent extended time in damp storage. While I don't see rust on the components, it's possible there is more corrosion inside the tubes. It's a mid-range model--a decent bike but nothing really special. I'd offer half that, settle for 50 bucks, but then spend some time cleaning up those rusty areas and recoating them. That rust goes right into the steel, so you want to treat it with something like EvapoRust after sanding off the surface rust, then priming and painting it, something you should be able to do yourself. Even with all that, the rust will still come back, eventually, so keep your eye on it and be prepared for a repeat performance.
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Old 10-14-24 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by sbarner
I've seen and ridden much, much worse, but I would not pay $80 for it, unless perhaps the parts were good quality and in quite good condition and I had another frame in mind to eventually move the stuff over onto. That top tube rust says more to me than the stuff around the BB, as there is flaking of the steel, and the tubing is typically quite thin in that area. It's clear that this bike has spent extended time in damp storage. While I don't see rust on the components, it's possible there is more corrosion inside the tubes. It's a mid-range model--a decent bike but nothing really special. I'd offer half that, settle for 50 bucks, but then spend some time cleaning up those rusty areas and recoating them. That rust goes right into the steel, so you want to treat it with something like EvapoRust after sanding off the surface rust, then priming and painting it, something you should be able to do yourself. Even with all that, the rust will still come back, eventually, so keep your eye on it and be prepared for a repeat performance.
You may be right about the rust being a real problem (and the OP bought the bike knowing this), but this is not a mid-range model. There are a number of threads on the top end lugged Trek hybrids. If this frame is mid range, so is the Trek 520 which was their top dog touring bike as they share the same tubing and similar geometries. The 750 has a little shorter chain stays and lacks the down tube shifter bosses.

this is a link to the '93 catalog which provides the tubing specs for the 2 model. I also took a screen shot of the 2 models to show the tubing. The 520 came spec'd with better components.

https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/trek/93/Trek93.pdf






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Old 10-15-24 | 06:14 PM
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Exactly - if the 750 is "mid-range", what's above it?
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Old 10-17-24 | 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Exactly - if the 750 is "mid-range", what's above it?
​​​​​​My Koga Miyata Hybrid is very close to a Miyata 1000, at least in specifications. Geometry is a bit different.

Trek did have a 790, which was the same frame as the 750. They also made 7 series hybrids in aluminum and glued carbon fiber. But that's more other end verses higher end.
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Old 10-17-24 | 01:16 PM
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I guess I don't think of second from top-of-the-line as "mid-range". In any event, they didn't make a 790 in 1993, so the subject 750 is at the top of the line of steel hybrids.
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Old 10-21-24 | 02:40 PM
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Not to cause a ruckus here, but are you sure thats a 23" frame?
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Old 10-21-24 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Loganiscool
Not to cause a ruckus here, but are you sure thats a 23" frame?
it is. I measured it and it is probably too big for me, I’m a 22”.
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