Italian spindle/axle options
11-05-24 | 07:18 PM
#1
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From: Fiscal Conservative on the Lefty Coast - Oregon
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Italian spindle/axle options
Hi folks,
I’m in the process of putting together a bike with an Italian threaded bottom bracket. It’s Windsor from Acer in Mexico. I have the BB cups & bearings, but need some assistance with finding a spindle/axle. The cups are not labeled with brand or manufacturer. I realize that these BBs use a 70mm length and vaguely remember reading about some Japanese brands that produced something that would work. I have a small stash of spindles and the co-op where I volunteer has buckets full, but am not sure what to look for or how to measure them. Would prefer to not invest a lot in this project until I have tested the fit and handling. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks & regards,
Van
I’m in the process of putting together a bike with an Italian threaded bottom bracket. It’s Windsor from Acer in Mexico. I have the BB cups & bearings, but need some assistance with finding a spindle/axle. The cups are not labeled with brand or manufacturer. I realize that these BBs use a 70mm length and vaguely remember reading about some Japanese brands that produced something that would work. I have a small stash of spindles and the co-op where I volunteer has buckets full, but am not sure what to look for or how to measure them. Would prefer to not invest a lot in this project until I have tested the fit and handling. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks & regards,
Van
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11-05-24 | 07:47 PM
#2
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From: Bloomington, IN
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Van,
Your co-op should yield a good fit for you. Look for spindles marked 5N, which fit Italian the numbers after the 5N indicate the crank spacing. If you locate spindles marked Sugino the number indicates the shell spacing but you need to measure for crank clearance. For example a MW68 is for English BBs but could be for either double or triple.
Shimano spindles will be marked as the shell width and may or not have indicators for crank clearance. Best way to find crank clearance is to measure race to end spacing. Remember the problem with spindle taper for your crank arms. Smiles, MH
Your co-op should yield a good fit for you. Look for spindles marked 5N, which fit Italian the numbers after the 5N indicate the crank spacing. If you locate spindles marked Sugino the number indicates the shell spacing but you need to measure for crank clearance. For example a MW68 is for English BBs but could be for either double or triple.
Shimano spindles will be marked as the shell width and may or not have indicators for crank clearance. Best way to find crank clearance is to measure race to end spacing. Remember the problem with spindle taper for your crank arms. Smiles, MH
11-05-24 | 08:56 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Old bikes, Older guy
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From: Fiscal Conservative on the Lefty Coast - Oregon
Bikes: A few modern, Several vintage, All ridden when weather allows.
Mad Honk Thanks for the quick response. I’ll check my stuff tomorrow. Probably won’t get to the co-op until Saturday.
Cheers,
Van
Cheers,
Van
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Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
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11-05-24 | 11:36 PM
#4
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From: Alta California
-----
tip -
prior to ordering/purchasing anything check that your shell is indeed seventy mm
in the early years there were Acer-Mex models which were constructed with sixty-eight mm italian thread shells
such machines tend to be fabricated with .833 steerers to accompany their odd shells
-----
tip -
prior to ordering/purchasing anything check that your shell is indeed seventy mm
in the early years there were Acer-Mex models which were constructed with sixty-eight mm italian thread shells
such machines tend to be fabricated with .833 steerers to accompany their odd shells
-----
Last edited by juvela; 11-06-24 at 12:01 AM. Reason: addition
11-06-24 | 12:49 PM
#5
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From: Appleton WI
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What crank do you intend to use? Any manufacturer that makes Italian thread bottom brackets will have suitable axles for their cups and cranks, but the specific axle you want will be determined by the crank (e.g. JIS versus ISO taper, symmetrical versus asymmetrical arms, etc.) and the number of chainrings mounted.
11-06-24 | 01:05 PM
#6
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From: Goose Creek, SC
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-----
tip -
prior to ordering/purchasing anything check that your shell is indeed seventy mm
in the early years there were Acer-Mex models which were constructed with sixty-eight mm italian thread shells
such machines tend to be fabricated with .833 steerers to accompany their odd shells
-----
tip -
prior to ordering/purchasing anything check that your shell is indeed seventy mm
in the early years there were Acer-Mex models which were constructed with sixty-eight mm italian thread shells
such machines tend to be fabricated with .833 steerers to accompany their odd shells
-----
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1987 Crest C'dale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin EL, 1990 Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Isoard, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 C'dale M500, 1984 Mercian Pro, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi ?, 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh Internat'l, 1998 Corratec U+D, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone, 1987 Bianchi Volpe, 1995 Trek 750
1987 Crest C'dale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin EL, 1990 Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Isoard, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 C'dale M500, 1984 Mercian Pro, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi ?, 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh Internat'l, 1998 Corratec U+D, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone, 1987 Bianchi Volpe, 1995 Trek 750
11-06-24 | 02:14 PM
#8
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From: Goose Creek, SC
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Haha. Was just wondering how they overcame the factory quirk!
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1987 Crest C'dale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin EL, 1990 Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Isoard, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 C'dale M500, 1984 Mercian Pro, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi ?, 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh Internat'l, 1998 Corratec U+D, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone, 1987 Bianchi Volpe, 1995 Trek 750
1987 Crest C'dale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin EL, 1990 Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Isoard, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 C'dale M500, 1984 Mercian Pro, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi ?, 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh Internat'l, 1998 Corratec U+D, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone, 1987 Bianchi Volpe, 1995 Trek 750
11-07-24 | 03:53 PM
#9
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From: Appleton WI
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Yes, but check the chainline that it hasn't been pushed too far outboard.
Old (1960s or so) Italian track bikes often had 65mm wide shells. And 68mm wide English or metric thread shells with damaged threads could be retapped to Italian thread. And more than a few bike-boom era Japanese frames had 70mm English thread shells. That's why you should never use shell width to determine thread spec.
Or did anyone make 68mm ready Italian BBS?
11-09-24 | 03:43 PM
#10
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[1] assuming normal cup thickness, and choices of where to measure the race separation....
