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Old 11-10-24 | 07:05 PM
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The other part of my question was about overwintering. If I don't ride for a few months, is it best
to lower the tire pressure and supend the bike, or not?
... john
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Old 11-10-24 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by shinnen
The other part of my question was about overwintering. If I don't ride for a few months, is it best
to lower the tire pressure and supend the bike, or not?
... john
As others have noted, tire pressures are easily calculated based on tire width and bike+rider weight and there are multiple calculators available for making that calculation. I use the Rene Herse calculator myself because the science behind it is thoroughly explained and well thought out.

I've never lowered the tire pressures for storage (they do that all by themselves) and I've never noticed any difference in post-storage ride quality depending on whether a bike is suspended or not. Note that there's only about 10 to 15 lbs resting on each wheel when you're not on it so that seems like a pretty insignificant load. I wouldn't worry about it. That said, it is probably detrimental to store a bike with completely flat tires on the ground because they may take a set that is a less than ideal shape and may crack where they are folded under.

Last edited by davester; 11-11-24 at 11:43 AM.
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Old 11-11-24 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by davester
As others have noted, tire pressures are easily calculated based on tire width and bike+rider weight and there are multiple calculators available for making that calculation. I use the Rene Here calculator myself because the science behind it is thoroughly explained and well thought out.

I've never lowered the tire pressures for storage (they do that all by themselves) and I've never noticed any difference in post-storage ride quality depending on whether a bike is suspended or not. Note that there's only about 10 to 15 lbs resting on each wheel when you're not on it so that seems like a pretty insignificant load. I wouldn't worry about it. That said, it is probably detrimental to store a bike with completely flat tires on the ground because they may take a set that is a less than ideal shape and may crack where they are folded under.
Yes, makes sense. Thanks.
.... john
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Old 11-11-24 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by shinnen
The other part of my question was about overwintering. If I don't ride for a few months, is it best
to lower the tire pressure and supend the bike, or not?
... john
I don’t think it really matters. The tires will deflate over time so I don’t think you gain anything by letting air out. I hang several bikes over the winter and just pump them up when it’s time.
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Old 11-12-24 | 07:12 PM
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I hang as many bikes as I can, re-pressurize when I PM for riding.

As to what pressure, fill to comfort level, normally around 60psi with the fattest clincher tires I can fit.
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Old 11-12-24 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by shinnen
Hi mooney,
I really can't tell you much about the wheels. It's a vingate circa 1970s roadbike with 27 x 1.25 inches wheels. That's about it. I thought it would be fairly easy for members, who ride this bike (or facsimile) to chime in on what psi they find most comfortable; what they would not go below and what they would not go above. I weight about 170 lbs (I'm not sure what the bike weighs). Comfort is high on my agenda. I won't be going long distances, just tooling around the local area, no highways, my balance isn't what it was 50 years ago.
..... john
My quick and dirty suggestion - for '70s era bikes with 27 x 1 1/4-in tires, I assume the rims will be straight-walled and without hook beads. So you want wire-bead tires, not kevlar, and the old classical, canonical 70 lbs psi just seems to be a sweet spot. I rediscovered this during my first Clunker Challenge 100 in 2016, when I realized that riding the battered '75 Motobecane Grand Touring with cheap 27-in tires on basic old Weinmann rims wasn't any slower for me than riding much pricier, cooler bikes.

That said, I use this Berto-based calculator - but then wind up running both tires at the rear pressure, as I spend enough time standing on the bike pushing a 70-in fixed-gear that the lower pressure in front doesn't work for me.
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Old 11-13-24 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rustystrings61
My quick and dirty suggestion - for '70s era bikes with 27 x 1 1/4-in tires, I assume the rims will be straight-walled and without hook beads. So you want wire-bead tires, not kevlar, and the old classical, canonical 70 lbs psi just seems to be a sweet spot. I rediscovered this during my first Clunker Challenge 100 in 2016, when I realized that riding the battered '75 Motobecane Grand Touring with cheap 27-in tires on basic old Weinmann rims wasn't any slower for me than riding much pricier, cooler bikes.

That said, I use this Berto-based calculator - but then wind up running both tires at the rear pressure, as I spend enough time standing on the bike pushing a 70-in fixed-gear that the lower pressure in front doesn't work for me.
Hi Rusty,
Thanks for the suggestions and history.
..... john
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Old 06-23-25 | 11:22 AM
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Further on this subject, I bought this pump the other day for $1. It was in need of some serious TLC, but it seems to work well. The only problems seems to be that the valve attachment lever has no effect, open or closed, so I may have to take it part.

revived old CCM bike pump.
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