Painting steel crankset?
#1
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Painting steel crankset?
anyone had any experience with spray painting a steel cottered crankset? i'm gonna get it sandblasted next week, and don't care about a chrome finish. whatever bits of chrome left under the corrosion and grime will be departing this mortal plane anyway! looking for a good primer brand.
#3
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Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
anyone had any experience with spray painting a steel cottered crankset? i'm gonna get it sandblasted next week, and don't care about a chrome finish. whatever bits of chrome left under the corrosion and grime will be departing this mortal plane anyway! looking for a good primer brand.



It will definitely look cool if the rest of the bike isn't too nice.

We need to see what its going on.

This didn't get the original crank yet, need to source a skip tooth chain and cog, sorted out a place holder ring and cog to get it on the road.
Original crank, BB, HS and pedals still working just fine.
Pretty sure its a 1939 by the s/n.

Last edited by merziac; 02-02-25 at 06:16 PM.
#6
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#7
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Bikes: enough one would think, but thinking isn't my strong point
After the blasting I would just wire wheel and rough polish whatever comes up after that. 
It will definitely look cool if the rest of the bike isn't too nice.
We need to see what its going on.
This didn't get the original crank yet, need to source a skip tooth chain and cog, sorted out a place holder ring and cog to get it on the road.
Original crank, BB, HS and pedals still working just fine.
Pretty sure its a 1939 by the s/n.



It will definitely look cool if the rest of the bike isn't too nice.

We need to see what its going on.

This didn't get the original crank yet, need to source a skip tooth chain and cog, sorted out a place holder ring and cog to get it on the road.
Original crank, BB, HS and pedals still working just fine.
Pretty sure its a 1939 by the s/n.


#8

thanks very much for the reply
asked because have not before encountered a chainset with this bezel around the head of the driveside arm which was not a thread-on chainwheel secured with a lockring
so is chainwheel secured via swaging or welding?





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#9
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ref 21, but short of a nuclear weapon, that lockring isn't going anywhere, so the entire crankset will get blasted and a paint job.
#10
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wrt "nuclear weapon" -

have observed that the makers of these chainsets take good care with the threads on the mounting boss as well as those on the chainwheel such that the chianwheel's pattern will come out symmetrical with relation to the long axis of the crankarm when fully cinched down ("clocking")
in this case that registration is clearly off
it might be that disassembly when paired with cleaning & lubrication of threads might permit chainwheel to cinch down at a symmetrical position
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wrt "nuclear weapon" -

have observed that the makers of these chainsets take good care with the threads on the mounting boss as well as those on the chainwheel such that the chianwheel's pattern will come out symmetrical with relation to the long axis of the crankarm when fully cinched down ("clocking")
in this case that registration is clearly off
it might be that disassembly when paired with cleaning & lubrication of threads might permit chainwheel to cinch down at a symmetrical position
-----
#11
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From: Newport RI
Bikes: enough one would think, but thinking isn't my strong point
-----
wrt "nuclear weapon" -

have observed that the makers of these chainsets take good care with the threads on the mounting boss as well as those on the chainwheel such that the chianwheel's pattern will come out symmetrical with relation to the long axis of the crankarm when fully cinched down ("clocking")
in this case that registration is clearly off
it might be that disassembly when paired with cleaning & lubrication of threads might permit chainwheel to cinch down at a symmetrical position
-----
wrt "nuclear weapon" -

have observed that the makers of these chainsets take good care with the threads on the mounting boss as well as those on the chainwheel such that the chianwheel's pattern will come out symmetrical with relation to the long axis of the crankarm when fully cinched down ("clocking")
in this case that registration is clearly off
it might be that disassembly when paired with cleaning & lubrication of threads might permit chainwheel to cinch down at a symmetrical position
-----
#12
#13
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Or failing that, assemble it with Loctite 603 or similar, super strong, and clock it to an eye-pleasing position. With such a large thread (48 mm), no way a mere human can break that Loctite. Also it's fail-safe, because if the loctite did break, all that would happen is the chainwheel would thread a little further on before stopping when It was fully threaded on against the shoulder. Worst-case scenario is it would look like it does now, which ain't all that bad.
#14
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back from the sand blaster.. primer this weekend. the chrome bits easily came off as well. don't think i'll try to remove a locknut that has been doing its thing for 90 years, and don't want any oil film when i paint it.


#15
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As someone mention before, after sandblasting give it a really thorough go with a wire wheel. I use to collect 40’s & 50’s tank bike and had very good results when using that process on stems and cranks. Bring back a little shine.
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#16
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Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Looks good, it needs to be scrubbed with lacquer thinner, acetone or paint prep and then painted immediately for the best lasting results, wire wheel before scrub would improve results as well.

#18
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